Home > Comps, World Cup > IFSC Barcelona World Cup 2011 Finals Results + Wrap-Up

IFSC Barcelona World Cup 2011 Finals Results + Wrap-Up

Barcelona Coverage

Women’s Qualifiers and Quali Results (with lots of screen shots, commentary, and some incredible quotes)

Men’s Quali Results (just the quali results)


Barcelona Final Results

Alex Puccio (2), Akiyo Noguchi (1) and Melissa Le Neve (3) on the podium.

Rustam Gelmanov (2), Guillaume Glairon Mondet (1), and Dmitry Sharafutdinov (3)

I will post again soon with a screenshot supported rundown of the finals problems and how everybody did on each one.  Nice job to all the competitors for battling the apparently excessive heat and continuing to try hard.  It really made a difference in final standings!

  1. herman
    June 26, 2011 at 3:22 pm

    Full respect to all the setters in Barcelona. The working conditions must have been hard:
    1. Hot.
    2. A less then inspiring wall with all the same overhang and lots of vertical roofs
    3. Only about 10 volumes in all i believe that got used again and again
    4. Only top30 holds

    I was part of the routesetting team in Eindhoven and just to illustrate we had
    10 walls al with different angles and total amount of overhang (from 5 degrees to 45 degrees)
    20 big wooden volumes by Axis
    40 HRT polyester Volumes
    30 Home made polyester blobs by Andy Long
    3 white Axis balls (inspired by me and delire from canada)
    3 polyester volumes by copyrock
    In All we had more then 100 volumes. all but 5 got used.
    An assortment of holds from lots of manufacturers inluding Axis, Teknik and al the nice ones we cound find at Monk Bouldergym.

    But we also had 15 degrees weather and rain coming through the tent and sooking the wall , the holds. We had a coffee….

    That being said. The barcelona finals seemed to be more interesting to watch as the ones in Eindhoven. Do you agree?

    In semi’s someone took the edge of a volume that was taped off. While the climber was on the wall the judge instructed him to let go. He climbed back let go of the taped off edge and continued and finished the problem.
    Officially your attempt is finished after you use something that is not allowed but as the jury did not instruct each climber before each start this might be the best solution.

    Did you see akiyo on final Women 3 (2?) actually grabbing the edge of the volume and moving from it. Wow. nice. Puccio tried it to but did not think of putting her right feet on the right

  2. Jackie
    June 27, 2011 at 10:56 am

    Hi Herman!

    I found it funny that in Barcelona the women’s final 4 had the speed holds on it! Alex Puccio’s mom was joking that it was a good thing she’d forced Alex to train for speed the other year so she’d know the holds.

    One thing I find cool about these events, especially like the Eindhoven event with so many different volumes, is that there is a good chance competitors will not know all the holds they are climbing on. For any competitor in their home country, there is a good chance (at least this is true in my experience in the US) that the competitors will be familiar with the holds and will be able to tell from preview what they are going to have to use and how they’re going to have to use it. In World Cups, there are a bunch of holds competitors may have never seen before and new/unique volumes compound that newness. I think that really adds to the competition because competitors should be more careful moving to holds when they are unsure of how they will be usable, and sequences cannot always be read accurately from the ground.

    The heat is always a big problem–I think too much heat is more detrimental than too much cold in climbing, though wet is debatable. In Font, for example, it feels easier to climb if it slightly warmer and very very dry than if it is slightly cooler but damp. It looked and sounded like all the competitors were pretty frustrated and exhausted from the temperature in the building, and CWP said it was even hotter in iso!

    Akiyo is amazing right now.

    The commentating was pretty funny in qualis and finals. I missed semis b/c it was in the middle of the night here.

    And finally, no, I personally did not find Barcelona finals to be more exciting than those in Eindhoven. Obviously Barcelona had a few cool problems and it was funny to see the competitors get all stuck in corners, but also somehow I felt bad for them because they didn’t seem to be having that much fun and also because they would get so stuck, or shut down, that a few of the problems were more boring to watch. I am glad that Guillaume and Dmitry stuck the dyno on men’s 4, for example, but watching the others get totally shut down got old quickly and the problem seemed like a 1 move wonder. Men’s 3 was the same–relatively easy to the bonus and then seemingly impossible. It would have been nice if Dmitry had pulled it off–maybe if the foot was just a little bigger? Women’s 3 was pretty cool I guess, since the final solutions of both Mina and Akiyo were mind-boggling. The movements required didn’t seem that different between 2 and 3 though–mantle into a corner. Both Women’s and Men’s 4 seemed to favor the slightly taller competitors, though I guess you could argue that Kilian is far from short and he didn’t stick it. Women’s 1 was cool and I didn’t see anyone except Tsukuru on Men’s 1 so I don’t have an opinion for it. Men’s 2 was interesting because Alexey and Dmitry hiked it and everyone else suffered. It seemed like they’d had a problem like that before maybe?

    It must have been hard to set for those temps. More than one competitor slipped off unexpectedly and look surprised.

    I took a bunch of screenshots and am planning to do a post with them soon. I wish the quality of the streaming video was better, but at least they have it!

  1. May 19, 2012 at 10:56 am
  2. May 19, 2012 at 10:56 am

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