Home > Comps, World Cup > Sheffield 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Finals Problem Discussion – Daniel Woods 4th Place!

Sheffield 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Finals Problem Discussion – Daniel Woods 4th Place!

Kilian Fischhuber for the win!

Final Problem 1’s

Due to the aforementioned power outage, I only saw the first-seeded Alex Puccio and Alexey Rubtsov on their finals problem 1.  Alex got to the bonus and went on to send on her 5th try.  Alexey sent on his 6th, though he got the bonus on his 3rd.

Problem 1 scores (competitors ranked as of prob 1, no countbacks yet):

Men                                                                                       Women

1. Kilian Fischhuber (f)                                                1. Akiyo Noguchi (f)

2. Alexey Rubtsov (t6 b3)                                             1. Juliane Wurm (f)

3. Thomas Caleyron (b1)                                             1. Melissa Le Neve (f)

3. Nicky De Leeuw (b1)                                                1. Katharina Saurwein (f)

5. Cédric Lachat (b2)                                                    5. Anna Stöhr (t2 b2)

6. Daniel Woods (b4)                                             6. Alex Puccio (t5 b5)


Final Problem 2’s

As you can see above, coming into problem 2 the women’s field was a 4-way tie for first and the men’s not too far behind though Kilian’s flash makes him the clear front-runner.

You can see Nicky on the bottom of men's 2 and Melissa brushing the blob on women's 2. Women's 2 started on that grey volume to her right and mantled up to the triangle before moving left to the blobs. The men's 2 start is described below.

Alexey and Alex wrestling with blobs on their problem 2's.

Men’s 2

Press-gaston-match to drop-down to foot swing to grab the edge of the wall and l heel or toe to rock up to the bonus hold to match to…?  Nobody got past the bonus hold.

The first three moves here looked overly-difficult and spit everyone off multiple times except for Alexey who flashed his way through it but was unable to get through it a second time. It took Daniel 7 tries to get to the bonus hold, and only he, Alexey, and Cédric (3rd go) even got the bonus on this problem. The first three moves were rocking over with your foot on a jib on a volume and hitting this gaston, then sagging down and matching it, then leaning right to the volume without barn-dooring off. Alexey jumped. Daniel kept his left foot on in an impressive display of power.

Heel-hook to the bonus hold.

Daniel Woods matching the bonus hold. This is as far as anyone got on this rig before exploding off. Slippery?

Women’s 2

Mantle to triangle volume to blob to huge blue circle volume to powerful move left to the bonus blog, then leg-wrapping and a little crimp to a balancy? stand-up to the last hold.

Katharina Saurwein on the opening moves of women's 2. Neither she nor Melissa Le Neve was able to manage the big blue volume and get to the bonus hold.

Jule did well on the powerful lower section, mastering the big blue volume to get the bonus hold on her 2nd try.

Jule was so close! And yet, so far... Sticking this hold would have won the comp for any of the competitors.

Akiyo even went with the butt rest on the bonus hold while she tried to get her left hand on the crimp her right was on.

Akiyo on the mantle. It took her forever to get her left hand on the only crimp on that large left volume. She fell off grabbing the last hold.

After what looked like an easy match on the crimp (but Akiyo made it look so hard!) Alex got in position to go right hand to the finish hold, if only she can stand up slowly.

Alex pretty much could not have gotten any closer, but she slipped off before getting on the hold well enough to match. Nobody sent, and Alex was the only competitor to static to the last hold, making it seem like she might send but at the last second she slipped off. Commentator Chris Webb-Parsons suggested that the upper of the two ribs on that final jib might be more positive than the lower and therefore be the necessary part of the hold to stick.

Final problem 2 scores (this problem only)

Men                                                                                       Women

1. Alexey Rubtsov (b1)                                             1. Akiyo Noguchi (b1)

2. Cédric Lachat (b3)                                               2. Juliane Wurm (b2)

3. Daniel Woods (b7)                                         3. Anna Stöhr (b3)

4. Kilian Fischhuber (-)                                          4. Alex Puccio (b4)

4. Thomas Caleyron (-)                                           5. Melissa Le Neve (-)

4. Nicky De Leeuw (-)                                              5. Katharina Saurwein (-)


Final Problem 3’s

Alexey and Kilian are fighting for first, with Kilian’s 1t1 1b1 and Alexey’s 1t6 2b4.  There are two more problems so anyone can still come out and win it, but these two are definitely in the lead.  For the women, everyone did problem 1 and nobody did problem 2, so at the moment ranking is down to bonus holds and attempts to bonus.  Akiyo is slightly ahead with 1t1 2b2, but Juliane Wurm is right on her heels with 1t1 2b3.

Cédric finishing his problem, Anna trying to finish hers. Maybe the toe hook will provide the necessary stability to match that last hold?

Men’s 3

Run-and-jump to power move to sorta-big move out left with a slightly difficult last match.

Nicky apparently used to be the dyno world champion. You'd think this would have helped him on this run-and-jump off the meteor-in-earth to the death star volume, but accuracy was a problem for all of the competitors on this move. Eventually they all stuck it and they all sent, making this the easiest of the men's finals.

Daniel matching the finish on men's 3 for the 2nd go send.

Women’s 3

Powerful first move to a twisting up volumes to the bonus hold (all flashed this far) to a hard final match that spit off 3 of the competitors.

Alex Puccio using the upside-down toehook rest on the 2nd move of final 3.

Katharina flashed to the end and got heartbreakingly close to matching this final hold but was unable to keep still enough. The live feed cut out for Juliane and Melissa but in the end it turns out that Akiyo flashed, Melissa and Alex sent, and everyone else just flashed to the bonus but couldn't match the top. This was clearly the 2nd easiest of the finals (besides final 1) and if this top match would have been easier it'd have seen multiple flashes.

Final 3 scores (this problem only, not cumulative)

Men                                                                     Women

1. Kilian Fischhuber (t2 b2)                        1. Akiyo Noguchi (t1 b1)

1. Daniel Woods (t2 b2)                         2. Melissa Le Neve (t2 b1)

1. Thomas Caleyron (t2 b2)                         2. Alex Puccio (t2 b1)

4. Cédric Lachat (t3 b3)                                4. Juliane Wurm (b1)

4. Nicky De Leeuw (t3 b3)                            4. Katharina Saurwein (b1)

6. Alexey Rubtsov (t7 b7)                             4. Anna Stöhr (b1)


Final Finals (Problem 4’s)

After the first 3 problems Kilian and Akiyo are ahead but neither are unbeatable, and several other competitors are still in the running for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places.  It’s always exciting when the comp comes down to the last problem for both categories!

Daniel Woods at the bonus on men's final 4 while Katharina Saurwein gears up for women's 4.

Men’s 4

Power move off small holds (in the Climbing Works logo) to a leg swing and difficult mantle (part of the difficulty was keeping their left flagging foot from smearing out-of-bounds) to a balancy stand-up to a blob to a double clutch left to two more blobs to a final move even more left to one more blob.

Dutch climber Nicky De Leeuw on mantle on the last problem of his first World Cup final ever. This mantle was harder for some competitors than others--Alexey got hasty and slipped out of it his first go. Interesting note--Nicky's last name, De Leeuw, apparently means "the lion", and Swiss climber Cédric Lachat's last name means "the cat". UPDATE - apparently la chat may or may not mean "the cat" in French. I'm getting mixed input on that one.

Alexey with a killer dropknee in the corner before standing up to the bonus hold and trying to get his balance for the double dyno to the left two of those three blobs. Competitor Nicky De Leeuw said that the blobs were extremely slippery and that section was very hard and "The first two moves really suck the energy out of you" so it was hard to have enough strength to do the later hard moves.

Tommy C, as the commentators began calling him when they gave up trying to pronounce his last name (Caleyron), flashed his way to the bonus hold...

...and then fell off trying to stick the dyno. He was the closest of everyone besides Cédric.

Cédric Lachat was the first out and only competitor to stick this difficult double-clutch sideways dyno. He finished the problem by matching the hold to the left and his success skyrocketed him to 2nd place.

Women’s 4

Start at the Decathalon logo, up to two sidepully looking things, dyno or long static move to the blue orb stuck in the orange volume, big power move left to the next gray hold (bouted two competitors), then match, swing feet left, cross under to other volume/jib, around corner to left crimp (b), right hand undercling jib on triangle volume, balancy move to match the finish?

Juliane Wurm and Katharina Saurwein both had a lot of trouble with the big move out left to the next volume after the first dynamic section to this weird blue and yellow volume. Neither girl got to the bonus hold (which is out left hidden by the triangle volume).

Melissa Le Neve styling the cross-under. The commentators said over and over what a brilliant technical climber Melissa is. The head setter of the event said that he usually sets all technical problems but that he tried to borrow from the crowd-pleasing American style and add some showy moves as well. The result seemed to be a nice mix of power and technique--a recipe a bit like that American setter Stephen Jeffery's applies to his competition problems and brought to the Spot in 2010 when he head set The Battle in the Bubble.

Anna Stöhr did well on this problem, but got stuck on the next move while trying to match the final hold. It looked like you were supposed to undercling that jib on the triangle volume with your right hand and then keep the heel rt and toe left and stand up to the sloper.

Alex got to the final hold twice but was unable to gain enough purchase to match on it. If she'd sent it she would have won. It looked extremely frustrating as Melissa, Alex, and Anna groped this hold repeatedly, trying to find a spot they could stick, and nobody was able to hold on well enough to take their right hand off and match. Akiyo also slapped at the final hold but there was no way she'd stick it without moving statically and she fell off too, with the same points as Alex, Anna and Melissa. 3 of the 4 women's finals had a last hold crux like this one, and by this one the competitors didn't seem too happy about it.

Problem 4 scores (not final ranking, just performance on this problem):

Men                                                                                       Women

1. Cédric Lachat (t2 b1)                                                1.  Akiyo Noguchi (b1)

2. Kilian Fischhuber (b1)                                            1. Alex Puccio (b1)

2. Daniel Woods (b1)                                              3. Anna Stöhr (b2)

2. Thomas Caleyron (b1)                                             4. Melissa Le Neve (b3)

2. Nicky De Leeuw (b1)                                                5. Juliane Wurm (-)

6. Alexey Rubtsov (b2)                                                 5. Katharina Saurwein (-)


So, who won?  It’s not done by averages, it’s like all Bouldering World Cups–# of tops, attempts to top, # of bonus holds, attempts to bonus holds.  When it shook out it was Akiyo and Kilian on the top of the podium.  For full final ranking scroll down to the next post or click here: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Sheffield Final Results

  1. July 3, 2011 at 6:41 pm

    well done on the article once again. What a great final! The Pooch was so close…so intense. 30k watching climbing online live, now that is a good day for climbing.

  2. July 4, 2011 at 4:57 am

    What a great report, We were there and the atomsphere was brilliant. We work for the company who manufactured the volumes in the final.

    You can have a look at our website http://www.hangfastclimbing.co.uk

  3. Jackie
    July 4, 2011 at 9:12 am

    Thanks guys! And Rob, those volumes looked pretty amazing.

  4. christoph
    July 6, 2011 at 1:04 am

    btw… lachat does not mean “the cat”. that would be “le chat”, and even than, i don´t know. 😉

  5. Jackie
    July 6, 2011 at 3:59 pm

    Really? According to Google translate “la chat” means “the cat”… not being or speaking French though, I don’t really know so I guess it is just a bad translation?

  1. July 5, 2011 at 5:30 am
  2. May 18, 2013 at 9:54 pm

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