Home > Comps, Setters, World Cup > Arco World Championships – Carlo is there!

Arco World Championships – Carlo is there!

Tsukuru Hori from Japan currently tied for 1st

Spot head setter Carlo Traversi has traveled to Arco, Italy, to compete in the 2011 Climbing World Championships in the disciplines of speed, lead, and bouldering.  Carlo won the trip at this year’s ABS Nationals.  Because of the time change, to actually watch any of this live you’d have to be up all night.  I just spent several days on a raft trip with a group of Wounded Warriors (more on that later) and now I’m playing internet catch-up.  Carlo’s trip is the most interesting thing going on right now, so here’s what I know so far about how the Americans are faring:

Men Bouldering

First place is a tie between Japanese climber Tsukuru Hori and Swiss climber Cédric Lachat.  3rd is a tie between Kilian Fischhuber and Adam Ondra.  Once again there were two qualification groups and they seemed to be fairly evenly split in the top of the field as far as # of problems sent goes.

Carlo did the best of the US men and ended up in 36th place.  The field was huge, with 134 competitors!  And it was all over the place, with some climbers you’d expect in finals not even making it through to semis.  Typical of most World Cup events, I guess.  Nalle Hukkataival tied with Magnus Midtboe for 37th right behind Carlo.  I’m not sure if his relatively high ranking means he does or does not make it to semis.  If they only take 20 then he’s out, but the field is so huge I wonder if they might take more.  I had trouble finding the answer to that online, so I don’t know yet.

Other Americans:

Ian Dory & Josh Levin (70th in a 9-way tie with 7 others including Thomas Caleyron and Emanuel Moosburger)

Matty Hong (tied for 86th)

Alex Johnson (88th)

Alex Fritz (99th)

Joseph Gifford (tied for 112th with 15 other guys)

Owen Graham was also supposed to compete but I couldn’t find him in the results list  Joseph Gifford was not on the startlist so I wonder if he subbed for Owen.

For the lead and speed events there are a few more American men registered–Shane Puccio, Ben Spannuth, and Alek Pouliopoulous.

Women Bouldering Qualifiations

Alizeé Dufraisse by Anna Piunova

The women’s qualification round also had two problem sets, so everybody is tied with somebody.  There were 69 female competitors total.  Here are the American results:

1. Francesca Metcalf!!!!!!! <———————YES USA!  (tied with Shauna Coxsey from GBR)

5. Angie Payne (tied with Yana Chereshneva from Russia)

7. Alex Johnson (tied with Akiyo Noguchi from Japan)

11. Sasha Digiulian (tied with Jain Kim from Korea)

23. Alex Puccio

39. Dana Riddle

You can check out the official website here: Arco 2011.  I will try to provide more coverage if possible, but I will be without Internet again for a week or so so you may have to soldier on without me.  : )

nice

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Categories: Comps, Setters, World Cup
  1. herman
    July 17, 2011 at 2:03 am

    Only 20 to semi’s so carlo’s out.

    Sacha is in finals. The Alexes and francesca not:
    http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=11_WM_AR&cat=ICC_FB

    if you look closely at this info then you will see that Carlo needed another top to get through to semi’s. We can also see that although there are a lot of climbers with only one top. Some of them did it in problem 3, some in 4, some in problem 5. Interesting setting to create challanging but doable problems that require different abilities.
    http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=11_WM_AR&cat=ICC_FB

  1. May 18, 2013 at 9:48 pm

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