Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Breakdown – Women’s 1 & 2 – UPDATED

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Breakdown – Women’s 1 & 2 – UPDATED

Here’re the first half of the women’s finals:

The Finalists

The Athletes: Anna Stöhr, Shauna Coxsey, Mina Markovic, Momoka Oda, Akiyo Noguchi, Melissa Le Neve


Women’s Final 1

Final 1. I don't know that this one had a nickname. Roof hold to campus/toehook to lip, purple volume, awkward stand-up to hold on left side of volume, rt hand undercling to help the awkward stand around volume to high rt hold, jump to top left hold on top of volume. Cool how a phone company sponsored the comp, huh?

From the start Melissa campused right out to the red slug and then bicycled the start hold to match. Momoka was the only competitor who climbed out the roof backwards with toe hooks, though that was most likely the intended sequence as it looked much less strenuous.

Some girls went right hand to purple, some went left. Some campused. Melissa used a heel hook and went right after falling her first go with a left hand attempt.

Melissa struggled to get the left hand hold on the volume and finally managed it with an impossibly high left foot. She then fell going for the next right hand on top of the volume.

I didn't get very many good shots of this one, but Shauna's left hand is on what I believe to be the bonus hold and from here you had to stand up around the volume to a hard-to-reach rt hand and then basically campus to the top left hand. The problem seemed harder for the taller competitors as Melissa and Akiyo could not manage to get their hips around the volume and though Shauna flashed it and Anna did it 2nd try, they both looked like they were struggling at the top. On the other hand, Momoka casually stood up with a right foot backstop on the purple volume for the flash. Mina also made it look pretty casual as she sent 2nd go.


Women’s 2 – “La Balance”

Women’s 2 was called “La Balance” and “The Balance” and “The Ballerina” because after the initial dyno it required some serious balance maneuvering.

Women's final 2. Start on the triangle volume with both hands and feet. Dyno to the teardrop volume. balance over on the black and white volume with a jib undercling to the bonus "hold" of the arete. Stand up on left foot and jump to green rail in roof. Match and grab finish hold. The holds at the top right of the pic are from Men's 4.

Here is Mina on the start of the problem. You stand up on this volume with both hands and feet and then jump left to the teardrop volume.

Melissa tried staying low here to move left but it didn't work too well.

Akiyo had very good balance for this confusing section. She solved the problem of reaching the arete by using her left hand on the jib undercling and crossing over right hand to the arete, then matching hands and getting her right hand back right so she could get her left foot up on the foot jib (invisible but just above the corner) for the stand-up

Akiyo did well on these balance moves but was unable to stick the stand-up to the green hold just out of the frame above her head (you can see it in the shot below)

Mina was the first competitor to stick this move. It was a difficult stand up on to what looked like a bad left foot with the left hand wrapped around the edge of the wall. Shauna also stuck this move after making a committing stand-up that required her to give a second burst of power mid-move. Somehow she managed to keep her balance and grab the green hold, but slipped off matching it. Anna may have gotten here as well, I don't know because the feed cut out. UPDATE - Anna did send.

Mina was the only 1 of 2 competitors to finish problem 3, though Shauna got quite close and fell matching the 2nd to last hold. Mina did the problem 2nd try after missing the intro dyno on her first attempt. Anna also sent.

Click here to see Women’s Finals 3 & 4 & link to final results


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