Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4

WordPress is not working very well for me today, so I am going to post these in sets of 2 problems to minimize the chances of having to redo everything a fourth time. Here are Women’s Finals 3 and 4.


Women’s Final 3 – “Pinky”

This problem was nicknamed Pinky because all the holds are pink. It involved a few big moves to some very dicey balance moves on what seemed to be greasy volumes. The Japanese girls climbed it easily, and Mina used some very creative beta of her own to get a send as well. Anna and Shauna were both stymied trying to grab the top of the last volume and both fell there repeatedly. Melissa had a little more trouble falling off the start move once and then falling several times trying to move from the bonus hold to the next volume.

The first move of W3 was a quite dynamic. Shauna did it easily.

Shauna also easily did the second big move to the bonus hold.

This move seemed delicate. Here Momoka keeps pulling on the volume while balancing up over her right foot.

Momoka stretching to the upper volume.

Akiyo used good balance to control the volume. Notice she flipped her left hand to help her control the stand up. The right hand seemed bad as competitors were really pinching hard to hold onto it and a few slipped off while trying to grab it or move off it.

Momoka and Akiyo both topped this problem fairly easily. Akiyo flashed and Momoka succeeded 2nd go after slipping off the last volume on her first attempt.

Mina got creative on this problem and stemmed way out right to a hold that was also on men's final 1. Though this hold may not have been intended in sequence it was not marked off so the judges let her use it. As it is, it was pretty amazing to see her stem so far out and somehow press off the bottom of the volume, then grab the top and control the release of the stem. She finished the problem 2nd go after slipping off the bottom of this volume on her first try.

Another view of the amazing stem.

If you remember we also discussed the Slovenian girls’ stemming abilities with the Boulder Lead World Cup post last fall.


Women’s Final 4 – “Sharky”

This one was called Sharky because of the big pink shark’s fin hold in the middle of it. This hold proved to be the crux for the competitors, as most fell at least once trying to stick it, match it, or move off of it.

"Sharky" started on the blue triangle of crimps right by the W4 sign and ends at the same feature upside down at the top right of the picture. From the start climbers had to do some powerful moves through the volumes in the roof and a big move to the shark's fin. After matching the shark's fin it was a blue right facing edge (or incut?) and a big move up to the 2nd crimp triangle with a foot on the side wall.

Melissa Le Neve wrestling to match Sharky. She did, but couldn't get much further.

Melissa trying an alternate method for controlling Sharky

Akiyo tried to hold a heel hook through the big move.

Momoka Oda wasn't able to stick the long jump and hold the swing.

Mina Markovic jumped out of this stem. It looked unlikely but she stuck the dyno and continued.

Mina about to press her way to the finish.

Mina disappeared in a hug from her coaches and teammates just after her final flash.

Mina all smiles just after flashing the 4th problem and winning the comp.

Anna Stöhr was the final climber and she had some trouble with Sharky. She gestured to the crowd for support on her final attempt, and it seemed to help as she matched Sharky and moved to the next hold. However, as she tried to do the last move dynamically her foot slipped and her turn was done. She ended up in 3rd.

Click Here to see the post with final results and podium shots

Click Here to Watch all of Women’s Qualifiers

Women’s 1 & 2 and Men’s finals coming soon!


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