Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 1 & 2

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 1 & 2

Here are some short problem breakdowns for Men’s finals 1 and 2. There are links to Men’s 3 and 4, Women’s 1 to 4, videos, results, and highlights at the bottom. Enjoy!


Men’s Final 1

This problem gave an auspicious start to Men’s finals as every competitor took some huge falls off the last move repeatedly. Thomas Tauporn of Germany was the only one to do a consistent double dyno to the hold and after several tries he dialed back his jump a bit to lessen the swing and managed to stick for the problem’s only send.

Men's Final 1. Green Volumes out left to yellow hold on yellow volume, mantle, balance, match top green volume, jump both hands to difficult-to-stick last hold.

Dmitri in the beginning of final 1. Thomas slipped off this volume twice, then rallied through it 4 more times. No one else seemed to have much of a problem with it.

Jakob moving out left. Most boys went with the swing method but Guillaume went heel-first out to the yellow volume and it looked less strenuous.

Jakob hung out on this hold and tried different mantle methods for a while before finally going with his right foot.

Jakob committing to the mantle.

Jakob trying to stay balanced.

Jakob stood up and mantled off his right foot. He and Alexey seemed to have the most difficult time with the mantle.

The beginning of Alexey's mantle method.

Alexey did the mantle with what looked to be a very difficult method. It worked for him twice but his final go he barn-doored out of the mantle and fell off.


Rustam standing out of the mantle and getting his balance for the move to the green triangle volume.

Dmitri near the top of men's final 1

Dmitri getting into position to match the last volume and jump for the final hold.

Jakob staring down the last hold. You had to double dyno for it and only after 4 tries at that did Thomas Tauporn stick it for the problem's only send. Jakob, Dmitri, Alexey, and Kilian all took multiple big falls after grabbing the hold and swinging out and off it. I'm not sure how GG did because the feed cut out. Rustam fell off the top volume at least twice but didn't even touch the last hold.


Men’s Final 2

I’m going to call this one “The Stopper” because it completely stopped Jakob Schubert cold. He couldn’t get past the first move. According to the notes I took while watching the live feed it also stopped Thomas Tauporn but apparently when the feed cut out he managed to get to the bonus hold. Same for Guillaume. On the other hand, Rustam and Kilian both flashed it casually.

Men's Final 2. Blue volume of left hand and foot, right hand just above the angle change, rock up left to pink volume and jib. up right with undercling, dropknee cross left to bonus hold, cross back right to highest blue hold, move out left on crimps to volume.

Jakob had a lot of trouble with this first move and wasn't able to stick the jib on the pink volume. He seemed to not be able to stick to the right hand hold. He had it brushed multiple times but couldn't pull far off it. Even after the awards ceremony he stopped to feel the hold again. He seemed very frustrated by it.

Dmitri trying to figure out how to stick the cross off the bonus hold.

Kilian climbed this easily, as did Rustam. Everyone else had trouble getting off the ground. You can see the bonus hold below Kilian's elbow. Everyone got there but Jakob.

More from the comp:

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 3 & 4 – Body Tension & Run and Jump

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #3 Log-Dragomer Final Results!

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Breakdown – Women’s 1 & 2

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4 

Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights

Highlights: http://www.247.tv/ifsc-climbing/ifsc-climbing-wc-2012-boulder-log-dragomer-slo/


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: