Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 3 & 4 – Body Tension & Run and Jump

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals 3 & 4 – Body Tension & Run and Jump

Here are rundowns from Men’s finals 3 and 4. 1 and 2 coming soon. In addition, you can watch highlights which are actually already available at http://www.247.tv/ifsc-climbing/ifsc-climbing-wc-2012-boulder-log-dragomer-slo/. I am glad they are making an effort to quickly provide replays and highlights this year. I hope all the World Cup events have similar turn around time. It is much better to watch it yourself if you have the chance.


Men’s Final 3 – Body Tension

This problem was supposed to challenge the tired body tension of the competitors. Unfortunately most competitors either did 2 easily or couldn’t get off the ground, so they weren’t so tired as they were supposed to be. This problem seemed a welcome respite from the technical climbing of the first two finals. Jakob flashed it for his first send of the round, as did Dmitri and GG. Rustam flashed for his second send. Kilian and Thomas both did it 2nd try (for their second sends). Alexey did it 2nd try for his first send. Basically, it seemed way easier than the first 2 problems.

Start hold to green volume to body-tensiony power moves up the overhanging arete.

Jakob working his way around the volume. Thomas and Alexey both slipped off here once.

Rustam moving to the bonus hold. Kilian slipped off here his first go.

Rustam grabbing the bonus hold. Every competitor sent this problem 1st or 2nd go, once they got to the bonus hold. Rustam, GG, Dmitri and Jakob flashed, and Kilian, Thomas, and Alexey did it 2nd go. From where Rustam is it's a power move up to the blue volume rt hand then a high foot next to the current right hand and a cross to the finish hold. It didn't seem to present the boys much trouble. Sadly I don't have any pictures of any move beyond this.


Men’s Final 4 – Run and Jump

This problem started out with a two-step run and jump to the vertical red triangle volume. From there it didn’t seem to cause the men much trouble as they did a few power moves out left to the finish on the green volume at the top left.

The Samsung Volume in the top right corner is just for decoration and the triangle volume at the bottom right is for a women's problem. The rest make up Men's Final 4.

Jakob falling off the run-and-jump. It was flashed by Thomas and Dmitri, done 2nd go by Rustam and GG, 3rd go by Kilian, 5th go by Jakob, and 10th go by Alexey.

Rustam used a toe hook to get established out left before crossing to the basketball. Alexey used what looked like a foot cam on the top edge of the volume and the edge of the wall.

Kilian manhandled this one. It took him 3 tries to stick the run-and-jump and then he pretty much sprinted to the finish.

Most of the boys did this cross like Thomas, with smearing feet. The basketball they are crossing into seemed like it had some positive sections as the boys generally adjusted on it before cutting their feet and other hand.

Dmitri made this problem look easy as he hiked it on his flash go. GG was the only one to fall from this hold after he cut his feet and got out of balance on the swing.

Thomas took a slightly different tactic to get on the last hold but ended up basically campusing like the rest of them by the end. He flashed the boulder.

Jakob finally got going and after missing the opening run-and-jump 4 times, stuck it his 5th try and climbed to the top. Everybody topped this problem, though some took longer on the run-and-jump than others.

In the end it came down to falls as 3 climbers did 3 problems (so they were the podium) and the rest did 2 problems each. Rustam did his boulders in only 4 tries (2 flash, 1 2nd go) so he won. Kilian was next with 6 tries for his 3 sends. Thomas took 9 goes for his and ended up in 3rd. For the rest of the results and more from this comp use the links below.

Videos – Mina Markovic flashing Sharky! + Highlights

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Breakdown – Women’s 1 & 2

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #3 Log-Dragomer Final Results Men and Women


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