Home > 2012, World Cup > Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna, Austria – Qualifiers

Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna, Austria – Qualifiers

Team America for the Vienna, Austria World Cup is the same as it was for Log-Dragomer, Slovenia — Ethan Pringle for men and Angie Payne and Alex Puccio for women. Women’s qualifiers haven’t run yet as they were delayed due to weather but they will start at 19:15 Austrian time/ 11:15 Colorado time on IFSC.tv.

Klemen Becan finishing a qualifier. Where are his feet?


Men’s Semifinalists (Quali Results)

Rank  Name  (Country) – notes (quali scores tops/attempts bonus/attempts) quali group a or b

1. Jeremy Bonder (FRA) – never heard of him (5t9  5b9) b

1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS) (4t4  5b5) a

3. Loïc Gaidioz (FRA) (4t4 5b6) a

3. Jan Haiko (AUT) (5t20 5b16) b

5. Thomas Caleyron (FRA) (4t6 4b4) a

5. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) – won last wc in Slovenia – (4t5 5b5) b

7. Nicolas Farcy (BEL) (3t3 3b3) a

7. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA) – 5th in Slovenia – (3t3 3b3) a

7. Ignacio Sanchez González (ESP) – pretty sure this is the infamous Nacho Sanchez – (3t3 3b3) a

7. Rei Sugimoto (JPN) (4t5 5b6) b

7. Jorg Verhoeven (NED) (3t3 3b3) a

12. Sean McColl (CAN) (4t5 5b7) b

13. Lukas Ennemoser (AUT) (4t5 5b12) b

14. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) (4t7 5b9) b

15. Mathias Conrad (GER) (4t8 5b9) b

15. Nicolas Januel (FRA) (3t4 4b5) a

15. Mykhaylo Shalagin (UKR) (3t4 4b5) a

15. Martin Stranik (CZE) (4t8 5b10) b

19. Daniel Andersson (SWE) (4t8 5b10) b

19. Jonas Baumann (GER) (3t4 4b6) a

19. Jernej Kruder (SLO) – hand on head – (4t8 5b10) b

19. Mario Lechner (AUT) (3t4 4b6) a


From the scores it seemed like the Group B problems were easier than the Group A problems since nobody did all the group A problems, and that one of the B problems had some trick to it (run and jump, dyno, or something) as people had many tries but were able to complete the problems after many tries. I didn’t see any of men’s quails, this is just conjecture based on the scores.

Ethan Pringle ended up in much the same position as he was after Slovenia where he tied with 2 other people for 31st place. This time he is in a 3-way tie for 33rd place.

I didn’t get to watch any of men’s qualifiers but it seems the problems may have been quite hard or there were some other extenuating circumstances (weather?) as many competitors who one would normally expect to see at least in semifinals didn’t even make it that far. Most notably absent is Austrian Jakob Schubert who won a record number of lead world cups last year and also won the first bouldering world cup this season in China and got 6th out of 7 finalists in Slovenia. In Vienna Jakob is tied for 23rd with Japanese climber Sachi Amma (who is also a world-class competitor and podiums regularly in Lead World Cups). For bouldering Sachi took 4th in China and made semis in Slovenia though he ended up in 20th. Jakob and Sachi were the first to not make semis as there were multiple ties in quails including a 4-way tie for 19th.

Other recognizable names who are not in semis:

25. Francois Kaiser (FRA) – made finals in Vail 2010, has podiumed at other events.

25. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) – regular finalist. Got 7th in Slovenia.

27. Dave Barrans (GBR) – has made many semis since 2009, made finals 3x

27. Chris Webb-Parsons (AUS) – sometimes makes semis, sometimes doesn’t, but always could. Made finals in Vail 2011.

31. Christian Core (ITA) – older climber. made semis in Sheffield 2011, 7th at Euro Championship in Austria 2010, 3rd at world cup in Switzerland 2010.

31. Nicky De Leeuw (NED) – 6th in Sheffield 2011, semis in 7 of 10 Bouldering World Cups in 2011/2012

33. Tsukuru Hori (JPN) – Won Japan 2011, 2nd in Vail 2010, 9th in China 2012, made 10 out of 12 semis in 2011/2012

36. Anthony Gullsten (FIN) – not a regular competitor but great outdoor boulderer, made semis at last 2 events he attended.

39. James Kassay (AUS) – famous for outdoor bouldering, not much of a competitor yet, 41st in Slovenia.

43. Stefan Danker (GER) – 10th in China and Slovenia, 4th in Canada 2011, 18th in Vail 2011.

47. Klemen Becan (SLO) – 11th in Slovenia, 18th in China. Normally a good competitor. 2nd at 2 Bouldering WCs last year.

49. Wouter Jongeneelen (NED) – 6th in Canada 2011, 6th in Vail 2010, 15th in China 2012. Also didn’t make semis in Slovenia last weekend.

Full quails results for men:

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Qualification M E N bouldering

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist 2. Qualification M E N bouldering


Until then, to refresh yourself as to the Log-Dragomer World Cup and how Team America did you can check out all of that comp coverage here – IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2012 #2 Log-Dragomer Slovenia

Also you can watch the wonderful World Cup Report for that comp here. The World Cup Report is a video report that movement specialist Udo Neumann has been putting together for several years. The videos sum up the comps by examining the movement of different competitors on the same problems or routes. They are very interesting to watch.

Categories: 2012, World Cup

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