Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna Austria Women’s Qualifiers

Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna Austria Women’s Qualifiers

Angie and Alex both made SEMIS!!!

The venue in Vienna for the 3rd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of 2012

This is great news. Good job girls!

From the start it seemed like either it was very hot and/or humid in Austria or the route setters gravely overestimated the ability of the female climbers. When competitors fell it was suddenly–slipping off often seeming like they hadn’t expected to fall. Many of the top seeded competitors fell unexpectedly all across the qualifiers, though enough sends happened to make a race for positions in semis. Alex Puccio squeaked in in 9th place in her quail group. Angie was in 7th of her group.

Shauna Coxsey said she didn't feel as well as she had at the last 2 comps, but she is still sitting in 2nd of her quail group going into semis. She said that the problems were really hard and the holds all felt really bad and that it was really hot.

The Qualis were set to have nearly identical problems between the 2 groups though the order is mixed up. So, approximately:

A1 = B1

~

A2 = B4

(but B4 is backwards from A2. People seem to dyno on A2 and static on B4)

Anna getting her feet up for the dyno on A2. Once the dyno was done people seemed to get to the top fairly easily, though some still fell off.

Katha Saurwein about to mantle to the top. This mantle seemed to be the crux on B4, whereas on A2 the dyno seemed to be the crux.

~

A3

A unique balance problem with a vertical yellow volume and jump out right to a jib on another volume that has stopped every competitor cold. Mina stuck the next hold one time but fell off and couldn’t stick it again. Everyone else I watched fell from the yellow volume, including Anna Stöhr.

Mina wrestling with the yellow volume. She made it through once to the bonus hold (the jib on the volume) but could not continue nor stick it again.

Mina trying to move her feet to get both hands on the volume.

Nobody finished this problem and only 2-3 climbers stuck the bonus hold. It seemed like it may have cooled down as the round progressed and night fell because it seemed like the lower-seeded competitors did much better moving off the volume than the generally dominant competitors had earlier in the round.

~

B3

A different balance problem that was sent by several competitors but was quite difficult. Momoka Oda and Maja Vidmar both finished it. A crux orange triangle volume move to a jib and mantle threw most competitors off.

Alex Puccio about to try B3. That volume is slippery!

Momoka Oda on the volume

Momoka Oda finishing B3. She was the first to climb it.

~

A4

Another balance problem on volumes that has been sent several times and thwarted many competitors including Angie Payne.

The middle of A4.

Shauna Coxsey atop A4

~

A5 = B2

~

B5

A balance problem with a finicky last move. It was nearly flashed by Alex but she fell matching the last hold! Then she couldn’t get back up there and fell at least 2x from the volume mid-problem. Jule did it after falling in the middle. She definitely looked nervous about matching the last hold and showed visible relief when she matched the finish hold. Momoka did it. There is quite a cool rose-move possibility at the end, either on the 2nd to last move or the last move on the volume (competitors have tried both).

Alex Puccio mid B-5. She flashed through this section only to fall matching the last hold. After that she had trouble sticking the next hold from here and didn't finish the problem.

Jule Wurm of Germany doin' the rose move on the 2nd to last move of B5

Maja Vidmar

~

Angie Payne got interviewed after she climbed and she said that her brain has trouble climbing these problems but she would be really excited to make semis and she’s enjoying herself. She also said that Alex Puccio is well again (Alex was sick in Slovenia but still competed and made semis).

~

Women’s Quali Results

Rank. Name (scores: tops/t/attempts to top  bonuses/b/attempts to bonus) quail group A or B

1. Mina Markovic   (4t6 5b7)  A

1. Momoka Oda  (5t7 5b5)  B

3. Jule Wurm  (5t13  5b10)  B

3. Shauna Coxsey  (4t7 4b7) A

5. Akiyo Noguchi  (4t4 5b5) B

5. Melissa Le Neve (3t3 4b5) A

5. Olga Shalagina (3t3 4b5) A

8. Melanie Sandoz (4t6 5b8) B

9. Monika Retschy (4t8 5b10) B

9. Anna Stöhr (3t3 4b7) A

11. Rebekka Stotz (4t9 5b9) B

11. Anne-laure Chevrier (3t4 3b4) A

13. Maja Vidmar (4t15 4b10) B

13. Angie Payne (3t5 3b4) A

15. Anna Gallyamova (3t3 5b8) B

15. Olga Bibik (3t6 3b6) A

17. Alex Puccio (3t4 5b6) B

17. Sabine Bacher (3t7 3b4) A

19. Vera Zijlstra (3t4 3b3) B

19. Katharina Posch (3t11 4b16) A

There were 52 women competing in qualifiers.

Full Results from Women’s Qualis –

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Qualification W O M E N bouldering

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist 2. Qualification W O M E N bouldering

Men’s Quali Results – Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna, Austria

And for semis:

Vienna Semifinals Results + Slovenian Pictures

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  1. kim
    April 27, 2012 at 1:22 pm

    Great right up never realized there were matching climbs but reverse except for both A1 &B1. I really wish we could start setting like this for american comps so the problems wont be so foreign to are american athletes. It is defenitly a different circut out in europe.

  2. ezra
    May 2, 2012 at 11:05 am

    where is shasa?

    • Jackie
      May 2, 2012 at 3:35 pm

      she hasn’t been competing in bouldering world cups yet this season

  1. April 28, 2012 at 7:00 am
  2. April 28, 2012 at 3:45 pm
  3. April 29, 2012 at 8:52 am

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