Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Vienna Semifinals Results + Slovenian Pictures

Vienna Semifinals Results + Slovenian Pictures

Alex Puccio and Mina Markovic on their first qualifier yesterday. Both girls are in the final today.

From the Slovenian Climbing Team come some pictures of yesterday’s qualifier. The most notable thing from them for me is the wall angles–from the live feed cameras the walls appeared to be much less steep than they actually are (in places) and much flatter than they actually are in other places.

~

Women’s Semifinals

Maja Vidmar on Women's Qualifier 1. Way steep!

Maja Vidmar didn’t make finals. She, along with Angie Payne, Momoka Oda, Olga Bibik, Sabine Bacher, and Mélanie Sandoz, only managed to flash to 1 bonus hold for a total of 1b1 points in the semifinals round and a 6-way tie for 15th place.  Six. Way. Tie. Only. 1. Point.

I don’t know if it was hot or if the route setting was cryptic or what, but a six way tie for last with major competitors only able to gain 1 bonus hold in the entire round–and for them all to flash to that one bonus hold–makes it seem like there was some sort of major setting miscalculation. Again. All I can imagine is that yesterday’s notable heat (every athlete they interviewed said it was really hot) must have come into play.

Also notable–all six of those girls got their 1 point by flashing to the same bonus hold, which was on problem 4. The scoresheet has a place for problem 5 but nobody got a single point on it. This makes me think perhaps there wasn’t a 5th semifinals problem. On the other hand, only 1 climber got 1 single point, 1 bonus hold, on problem 3. That is Ukranian climber Olga Shalagina, and she is currently sitting in 4th place with 2 tops in 4 rise and 3 bonus holds in 5 tries. It took her 2 tries to get to the bonus hold on problem 3.

Maja Vidmar (SLO) and Diane Merrick (GBR) in the same place on their first qualifiers. Very cool.

The good news to come out of semifinals is that Alex Puccio is in first place! Alex has had a rough time at the last couple of comps, being sick in Slovenia and generally not performing as well as she’d probably like to. In Semis in Austria she was the only competitor to climb 3 problems (it took her 5 tries). She also flashed to all 3 of her bonus holds. Her buddy Shauna Coxsey is right behind her with 2 flashes to top and 3 flashes to bonus holds. Here are the female finalists:

1. Alex Puccio  3t5  3b3

2. Shauna Coxsey  2t2  3b3

3. Akiyo Noguchi  2t3  2b2

4. Olga Shalagina  2t4  3b5

5. Mina Markovic  2t5  3b10  <–won last comp!

6. Anna Stöhr  2t6  3b7

In 7th place, which some consider the worst because it means you just missed finals, is German climber Jule Wurm with 1 flash and 2 flashes to bonus.

Unlike the men’s field, the women down to a 3-way tie for 10th place managed at least 1 send and 2 bonus holds in semis. For all except 8th place climber Olga Iakovleva of Russia it was problem 1. Olga flashed problem 2 instead.

After the 10th place mega tie, the 13th and 14th place girls had no sends but 2 bonus holds. After that were our six girls in 15th with all of their flashes to bonus on problem 4.

I look forward to hearing more about this round from someone who was there. It seems, at least from a route setting standpoint, that there is a lot to be learned from it.

Here are the full semis scores by problem: IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Semifinal W O M E N bouldering

~

Klemen Becan atop a qualifier. I haven't seen any semis pics yet.

Men’s Semifinals

For the men, Slovenian coach Simon Margon said that the setting was “bad” in qualifiers. Semis must not have been much better (I didn’t watch because it was on at 2am my time) because of the entire 22 person field only the 4 competitors topped a problem. Four tops in an entire semifinal round. And of those 4 competitors 3 of them got 3 bonus holds and 1 got 2 bonus holds. For the top three the send was problem 1, which Rei flashed and Dmitrii and Thomas did 2nd go. For the fourth, Jeremy, the send was problem 6, which he did 6th go and took 4 tries to get to the bonus hold on. Of course, setting is always difficult as is predicting what competitors will do. Still, the difficulty of these problems seemed to misgauge the field entirely, so we must assume another factor. Most likely heat?  Anyways, here are the top 4:

1. Rei Sugimoto (JPN) 1t1 3b8

2. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS) 1t2 3b4

3. Thomas Caleyron (FRA) 1t2 3b6

4. Jeremy Bonder (FRA) 1t6 2b8 <–qualified for semis in first

The next 4 competitors in the ranking got 4 bonus holds each, so even though none of them managed one send they did get a 4th bonus hold that none of the top 4 were able to reach. Unfortunately only 6 go to finals so two of those who got all 4 bonus holds were bumped due to falls.  Here they are:

5. Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)   4b5

6. Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)   4b9

Below this competitors are not in finals:

7. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)  4b11

8. Martin Stranik (CZE)  4b14

According to the score sheet there was actually a 5th semifinal problem as well, but like the women’s #5 it either it didn’t exist or it didn’t come into play as nobody even got a bonus point for it. I will update if I find out what the deal with those was.

Next is a 3-way tie for 9th by Sean McColl, Nacho Sanchez, and Jonas Baumann (GER, you may remember him from winning in Vail in 2009 and taking 3rd in Vail in 2011). After that is Slovenian Jernej Kruder in 12th. You’ll recognize him because he’s got a had on his head again.

Jernej Kruder

After Kruder and sharing 13th place are Guillaume Glairon Mondet of France (finalist in Log-Dragomer) and Austrian Lukas Ennemoser. Mathias Conrad (GER) was the last competitor to get 3 bonus holds, and he took 15th place.

The next 4 competitors got 2 bonus holds and came down to falls with a tie for 18th. The last 3 competitors (men’s semis had 22 instead of the usual 20) got 1 bonus hold and were also divided by falls. For the scores by problem, click here – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: Resultlist Semifinal M E N bouldering.

Slovenian Klemen Becan in qualifiers

Also interesting, these are the first pictures from qualifiers that I’ve seen, but this men’s problem looks very similar to a women’s qualifier. Instead of two higher holds and a little dyno it seems like the men got an undercling and a powerful static move. You’ll note there’s no jug on the right side of the high volume to catch from a dyno like the women’s problem had. You can check out that problem in our Women’s Qualifiers coverage (link just below).

~

Finals start at 19:00 Austrian time. It’s about 15:30 in Austria right now and 7:30 in Boulder, so in 3.5 hrs (around 11am Boulder time) tune in to IFSC.tv to watch finals live and support Alex Puccio and your other favorite World Cup athletes.

Til then, check out our coverage of Qualifiers and of last comp in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia:

Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna Austria Women’s Qualifiers (with screen shots)

Bouldering World Cup #3 – Vienna, Austria – Qualifiers (+ Log-Dragomer video)

Log-Dragomer Slovenia Bouldering World Cup Finals Coverage Wrap-Up

Advertisements
  1. April 28, 2012 at 7:29 am

    Indeed there are only 4 semi final problems
    5 in quali, 4 in semi’s and 4 in finals

  2. Jackie
    April 28, 2012 at 9:59 am

    why does the semis score sheet have a space for a 5th problem?

  3. April 28, 2012 at 2:44 pm

    you mean this score sheet?

    Either small budget or shitty programming I think

  1. April 28, 2012 at 7:04 am
  2. April 28, 2012 at 3:45 pm
  3. April 29, 2012 at 8:52 am

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: