Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

I will put out Women’s 1 and 2 and all the men’s problems next. Here are women’s finals 3 and 4 and results.

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Women’s 3

Anna came out and powered through the bottom, then seemed stopped short by a long move off the bonus hold, a most-likely-slick blue bean shaped volume. She did a nice right drop knee with a left foot smear but came up not quite able to even reach the bolt hole of the next sloper. She had the holds brushed and took a rest, then got back on and fell in the same place. The 2nd time she tried her left foot on the volume instead of her right, which made for a much more powerful move, but she was still unable to reach the next hold. She rested again and looked at the problem, trying to figure out what might work. 3rd go she tried both positions again before finally jumping out of the drop knee and hitting the usable part of the sloper as she fell off.

First move. Two volcanoes to a sloper on a volume.

Getting on the bonus hold

Anna pulled into the drop knee well but couldn't quite reach the next hold.

Mina came out and had the same problem as Anna. The bottom looked awkward and she wrestled through it to the bonus hold, then fell trying to move from the bonus hold to the next sloper.

Mina using good style for the sloper match with a right toe jam and a left smear.

The announcers said that they heard the setters discussing the problem the night before and worrying that this move would be too powerful for the group. They decided that because Alex Puccio is in the group the problem would probably work. We will see if they were right.

Mina’s 2nd go ended unexpectedly when her feet slipped off the volume as she was fighting with the awkward match of the bonus hold.

Mina seemed to have good control of the bonus hold and was able to hold it when her feet cut seconds later on her last go.

Chris said that because Mina is a route climber she recovers faster than the girls who just boulder and might be able to get more attempts in because she is aerobically fitter. She got back on, fought but managed to stay on as her feet slipped when she was matching the bonus hold, then got back on and fell trying to bypass the long move by doing a similarly long move straight up to the next hold.

Mina trying to avoid the long move out right by going straight up. It didn't quite work.

Next came Akiyo Noguchi and after fighting with the volume and bonus hold she easily did the move that everyone else had fallen on by using the drop knee method and finished the climb for the flash!

Reverse kneebar

Kept the reverse kneebar on the volumes to stick and match the bonus hold.

Akiyo easily sticking the sloper move that gave the previous climbers so much trouble. She then threw her left heel on for the next move.

Last move...

Akiyo making the first top by of problem 3.

First go Shauna fell unexpectedly on the first volume when it seemed her feet slipped as she was matching. 2nd go she had a similar problem but it was her hands that slipped–you could see her pushing but the hold was clearly slipper and from the camera angle I watched her hands slip one after the other as she struggled to stay on.

Shauna fighting to stay on this slippery sloper.

3rd go she used a bicycle flag on the volume and then quickly got high feet to push into the match. She threw in a double knee bar and got the bonus hold, then LOCKED OFF the drop knee and moved slowly to the sloper that had given Anna and Mina so much trouble.

Shauna and the amazing drop knee lock off. She static-ed to the next hold.

Locked off. Amazing.

She looked like she would be in good shape from there on but then fell grabbing the next hold. 4th go she again almost slipped on the volume match, then powered through to the bonus and used an inside right knee bar to match. She stood out of that kneebar to hit the long move, then barely stuck the next move to the little round left handed sloper, and also barely powered through to the last hold. Luckily it was flat and she matched it. She looked very relieved with the send.

Shauna fell this time but stuck it next go and did the next move for the send.

Alex fell first go off the slick volume Shauna had trouble with.

Alex struggling with the sloper on the volume.

She grabbed the brush herself and brushed, then reevaluated for her next go. Next go she used the right toe jam in the lower start hold, then matched the volume and hit the bonus hold with her left hand.

Alex held on even though her feet cut.

She fell bumping to the top of the bonus hold and rested again to prepare for another go. She got back on and barely matched the bonus hold, losing both feet and swinging around but controlling it. She basically campused the next move and nearly stuck it. Last go she fell again trying to get on the bonus hold.

Alex basically campused this move but didn't quite stick it.

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Women’s 4

Anna Stohr had an unexpected foot slip on the 2nd move and got a brush before her 2nd go. She jumped back on, set the foot more carefully, and slipped off again. The announcers suggested that the fresh problems were harder because of no chalk build up on the holds. Anna tried again, and again fell off the cross move. This time she took the brush herself and brushed the foot. It seemed like she was having trouble finding the balance between pressure on a slippery hand and a slippery sloper foot.

Anna on the slippery crimps. Her foot slipped off that left foot several times.

4th go she managed to make the cross and jump for the bonus hold, but she fell trying to stick it. She tried again and again fell sticking the cross, she made the move but couldn’t seem to engage her left hand. Another try and again she fell jumping for the bonus hold, not even really touching it but falling out as she jumped.

Anna falling from the small crimps on her 2nd go at the move to the bonus hold.

Anna's first go at the bonus hold.

Mina came out sitting in 3rd place to try and stay on the podium or better her position. She climbed delicately through the bottom cross but it didn’t look too hard for her.

Mina sticking the bonus hold.

Mina getting up on the red volume.

She easily stuck the jump to the bonus hold, moved to the right volume, campused her left foot up to the bonus hold, stood up to the red volume, and steadily hiked her way to the flash. Nice job Mina!

Mina celebrating her flash of the 4th final.

Akiyo came out looking strong and flashed through the cross and the bonus hold to the high red volume. She had more trouble than Mina getting up on that red volume and ended up falling on the match.

Akiyo on her first go. She got up on the red volume but fell bumping her left hand to the top of it.

The announcers were saying if she sends this she will win, and if she doesn’t Alex or Mina could win. Very exciting! And Akiyo sat down on the mats to rest for her next go. This time she pulled up on the red volume, matched, grabbed the finish hold, and celebrated what she knew was winning the comp.

Akiyo at the top. She still has to stick that awkward lurch out left.

“She didn’t just get to the top, she was almost over it. She was practically shaking hands with the camera man.”

Akiyo finishing the problem and winning the comp.

Shauna fell jumping for the bonus hold on her first go, putting her out of the running for silver. That is how close things are. 2nd go she grabbed the bonus hold, climbed to the top of the red volume, then fell doing the awkward lurch out left to the final hold.

Shauna getting up on the red volume on her 2nd go.

The move she did was similar to the one that Mina and Akiyo used successfully, but she was going a little too fast and didn’t slow down enough to stick it. She sat on the mat to rest and the DJ started playing an uplifting song. She got up and got back on the wall with 25 seconds remaining. The crowd clapped and she got through the cross but fell again on the powerful jump to the bonus hold, looking tired and waving at the crowd as she came down.

Shauna Coxsey falling off the last move on her 2nd go. Ugh.

Alex Puccio came out last and this problem would be the difference for her between silver and bronze. She easily did the first move, then stuck the cross but couldn’t move out of it. She came off and looked with dismay at her fingers, then pulled tape off her finger tip. Chris said that a lot of the girls have thin tips and are using tape to protect them from bleeding mid comp. She is doing the moves easily but seems to be having trouble moving off the small slippery holds, and she slipped a 2nd time trying to throw to the bonus hold. This time Alex helped brush the problem herself, got back on, and fell again from those small holds. Her last go was the same, though instead of doing the small cross she tried to jump-cross to the bonus hold.

Alex sticking the cross. Look at those forearms!

Alex's high point on her first go on WF4

Alex falling from the jump to the bonus hold.

Alex was interviewed after the climb and she said that she and Anna both had bloody fingers and they had trouble sticking to the small holds and were slipping off the wall unexpectedly. She said she was surprised by what she fell off because she climbed the boulders that looked harder for her went easier and the ones that looked easier went much harder. For the 3rd problem she said she might have found it more doable if she’d been a bit smarter and found the knee bar. Regardless, Alex is in 3rd place–her first podium of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season 2012.

Bleeding tips from Alex

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Women’s Final Results

The podium. Mina Markovic (silver) Akiyo Noguchi (gold) and Alex Puccio (bronze)

Grahme Alderson of the IFSC was also interviewed and he said that Olga seems to have some ligament damage in her knee and was taken by ambulance to the hospital. A further update said that Olga hurt her LCL in her left knee. Olga then showed up for the medal ceremony and hopped her way across the stage to take 6th position. All at the IFSC wish her the best for her recovery.

Olga at the medal ceremony

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Stay tuned for the men’s and other women’s coming soon!

Categories: 2012, Comps, World Cup

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