Home > 2012, e-grips, New Holds!, Setting Update, Strange Breakages > Setting Update for 5/8 and 5/9 + NEW E-Grips! + More Interesting Breakages

Setting Update for 5/8 and 5/9 + NEW E-Grips! + More Interesting Breakages

Setting Update for 5/8 and 5/9

Tuesday Jay Jay, Jonny, Carlo, Danny and I stripped the Font boulder. Ian came in and washed, then helped us reset. Wednesday there was no Ian and no Jay Jay but Jon was back. Next week we will have Jay Jay both days as she is finally done with school for the semester.

My favorite side of the Font. I dunno, I just like the angle I guess. Watch your elbow on that cone out right!

The Slab – challenges for all levels.

New North Side. Check out Danny’s yellow!

Front prow. Diego enjoying the Boss.

There are now 45 new problems up on the Font boulder from 2- to 5+. Especially exciting is that some of the problems were set with our…

…Brand New E-Grips!!!

Today Chris Danielson came in and brought us the other half of Carlo’s hold order. We got several sets of E-Grips including two new sets of everyone’s favorite Comfy Crimps and a bunch of other cool stuff as well.

New Comfy Crimps!

New pinches, flakes, and jugs!

A bunch of these went up on the Font today and we’re saving the rest for the front of the Hueco next week. While we were setting we encountered…

…More Interesting Breakages

In other interesting news today, we broke two holds. First was an Asana Font hold that gave loud pop and, upon inspection, had broken in a semicircle around the bolt hole on the back of the hold (this is when the hold pops off the wall leaving a little bit of resin stuck to the bolt. It didn’t break all the way though, but obviously we pulled it off when it made the noise and considering this crack we can’t use it anymore:

the break

Then this happened:


We previously broke the little decorative edge rail off of one of these ears, but today the whole ear came off!

the ear. a pretty clean break–like wet sandstone kinda. weird.

Jon gave the scar a few swipes with the sandpaper and we’re gonna keep using the hold, but it’s kinda freaky that the entire ear just broke off this hold. We’ve had it for several years now, maybe 4?  It is a Contact hold, and in general our Contact holds have been pretty durable, especially since they are resin. The remainder of this hold is close to the ground, we’ll see how it holds up. The other ear seemed perfectly solid after Jon gave it a few sturdy yanks.

I will do another post tomorrow with the problem of the week for last week (Beach) and this week for the Font.

Next week – Front Hueco!

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