Home > 2012, Holds, Hueco Frontside Large Scoop, Hueco Frontside Small Scoop, Other Spot Stuff, Setters, Setting Update, Strange Breakages > Setting Update for 5/15 and 5/16 + Broken Holds + New Setting Board + Falling Clinic with Timy Fairfield

Setting Update for 5/15 and 5/16 + Broken Holds + New Setting Board + Falling Clinic with Timy Fairfield

Hokay, we had sort of a big week for how mellow of a week we thought it’d be.

Setting Update

Tuesday Jonny, Carlo, Jay Jay, Danny, Ian and I stripped the front of the Hueco boulder and added a bunch of new problems. Our good buddy Jordan came in and helped wash so we got a full setting session out of Ian and you can check out his unique take on movement with several problems on the left side (small scoop) of the front Hueco. Here is what the boulder looks like:

The New Front Hueco

Trust Falls with Timy

Wednesday we were going to fill-in the boulder a bit more but we ended up spending most of the day doing a falling clinic with Timy Fairfield. Timy is a long-time fixture in the climbing community–he has had a long career as a competitor, trainer, setter, and consultant. He came in to give us a presentation about falling–how other sports approach it vs how bouldering approaches it, the best techniques for falling as safely as possible, and what steps we should take to help people learn to fall better. If you want to know more about Timy go to his website here – timyfairfield.com: The Spot.

Most of the clinic participants: (top) Adam, Clink, Dan, Timy, Me, Danny, Jonny, Jon Grayson, Carlo, Kellen (bottom) Brett, Jay Jay, Josh, Nesto (Timy’s buisness partner)

Broken Holds

Other exciting happenings this week – we broke a bunch of holds. Yep. Really only 4, but I think I’m going to start sharing pics of the holds we break so people can see what is breaking and how it is breaking. Here’s this week’s broken line-up:

This one is a shame. An older Climb-it hold (from the first Dojo order). Sadly between the two fractures this one is toast.

A broken Climb-it hold. Fractured near the base of the bolt tube – a common breaking point for this hold, we’ve already lost 1 this way.

Another Climb-It victim. Another hollow-back bolt tube failure.

I’m not sure what this hold is. The back totally blew out. I think it is maybe a Rock Candy, as the mix is similar to a few other Rock Candy holds we have, but I’m hesitant to say so for sure since I’m not 100% sure and I think they’re still mad at us for our last hold review on them. UPDATE 2014: Nathan says he thinks not a Rock Candy, and it’s far too late to know what it actually is, so sorry, but it’s definitely broken and now long gone. UPDATE OVER. It might also be a Vision hold? It definitely glows in the dark, and the breakage was due to it being soft I guess since the fractures almost look like how Jello tears.

New Setting Board

Finally, we got a new setting board!  Our bios are way smaller (turns out other departments wanted part of our wall too) and we’ve got a new system for putting up the problem #s, the new set #s and picture, and soon a “next set” and “problem of the week” will be added too. Here’s Jay Jay showing off what it currently looks like:

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