Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Qualifiers Results – UPDATED w/more photos

World Cup 2012 #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Qualifiers Results – UPDATED w/more photos

I got up in time to watch part of Women’s Qualifiers. There were 48 competitors registered, and 47 climbed (which I think is a lot for the women) and on first glance some of the problems seemed to be having the same problems as those in Vienna two weeks ago, that is, the problems were set on volumes and seemed slippery. There were definitely successes but just as many girls were slipping suddenly when their balance got a bit out of alignment. Kinda like climbing at Smith Rocks – a hand or foot slips and even though the rest of your body is a fairly good position once your weight is away from the wall nothing you are holding onto is positive enough to save you. On F1 and F4 at least.

Start of F1. Balance out right. Commit to foot.

Though the foot is huge the blue volume seemed slippery. Getting to it from the white volume also proved cruxy for some. From here she needs to get out right with her right foot up high on the side wall and then mantle to the finish.

F5 was more powerful and clever with a few holds blocking climbers from putting a heel up, effectively forcing a campus/jump move.

F5. The right hand is one of the two start holds, the other is down by the volume (below the route plaque). The competitors started in a big cross with their feet on the sticking-out edge of the orange volume, then jumped to the edge and were supposed to jump to the volume with their right hand. The move seemed large and if you look at her right hand you can see that the handhold is blocked by two others. Some competitors brought a foot up and smeared on the left of the blocking holds but it didn’t seem super efficient.

Petra past the move. Now she can kind of stand on those right hands. Her left hand is on the bonus hold.

Interesting note, there do not seem to be two qualification groups like there have been at the rest of the Bouldering World Cups so far this season. That means every competitor is trying the same 5 quail problems.

The typically dominant competitors did fine, with Anna Stöhr, Jain Kim, and Melissa Le Neve flashing 4/4 and flashing to the bonus on 5/5 (Anna) and 5/6 (Jain and Melissa). Shauna Coxsey and Alex Puccio were just behind them with 4 tops in 5 tries and the 5th bonus hold flashed (5/5 Shauna) and after a bit of effort (5/10 Alex). In fact, all the way down to 10th place Akiyo Noguchi 4 of the 5 qualis got sent and all 5 bonus holds were controlled in varying amounts of tries.

F3 looked powerful as well

Top of F3. I saw this one get done several times.

The problem…problem, was FQ4, which is in the left side of the bottom left quadrant in the pic above. It began with a mantel of the yellow blob, stood up to the red volume and bonus hold, and then everyone fell off. The idea seemed to be to jump to the green volume but nobody could get there. It remained unsent.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on the bottom mantle of F4

Mina mid-F4. She is at the crux. As far as I know nobody stuck the green volume. I saw a Russian girl give a good double-dyno attempt but she didn’t stay on green.

Another method for the mantle with Jenny Lavarda.

Results show that the problems did a fine job separating the climbers into semifinalists without many ties, so hopefully tomorrow’s round does as well. Here are the semifinalists. F2 is described below them.

Women’s Quali Results Innsbruck, Austria

1. Anna Stohr  (AUT)

2. Jain Kim (KOR)

2. Melissa Le Neve  (FRA)

4. Shauna Coxsey  (GBR)

5. Alex Puccio  (USA) <——–yay!

6. Anna Gallyamova   (RUS)

6. Katharina Saurwein  (AUT)

8. Olga Iakovleva  (RUS)

9. Juliane Wurm  (GER)

10. Akiyo Noguchi  (JPN)

11. Sabine Bacher  (AUT)

12. Tatiana Shemulinkina  (RUS)

13. Melanie Sandoz  (FRA)

14. Katharina Posch  (AUT)

15. Mina Markovic  (SLO)

16. Momoka Oda  (JPN)

17. Nelly Kudrova  (CZE)

18. Cecile Avezou  (FRA)  <–born 1971!

19. Anne-Laure Chevrier  (FRA)

20. Manon Chapet  (FRA)

See climbers 21 – 47 with Full Women’s Qualis Results

Coming out the roof on F2. Her feet are on a Teknik Pinchtite which is a sweet stalactite hold.

Then there were powerful moves out right.



The Men’s round was divided into two quali groups with 73 total climbers. Because of the two groups the combined result always results in multiple ties but even of those there were ties, so now 4 men are going into semifinals tied for 1st. Besides that all the multi-ties took place after 20th, i.e. for those not in semis. Several notable competitors as usual didn’t make semis, with Jernej Kruder and Jorg Verhoeven tied for 21st and Dave Barrans and Stefan Danker tied for 23rd. Russian Alexey Rubtsov, who has been in finals multiple times this season, ended up tied for 25th. Here are the semifinalists.

Men’s Quali Results Innsbruck, Austria

1. Guillaume Glairon-Mondet  (FRA)

1. James Kassay  (AUS)

1. Jakob Schubert  (AUT)

1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov  (RUS)

5. Lukas Ennemoser  (AUT)

5. Sean McColl  (CAN)

7. Kilian Fischhuber  (AUT)  <—has been all over the place in quails but keeps ending up on the podium

7. Tsukuru Hori  (JPN)  <—a good competitor who has been having a rough season

9. Jonas Baumann  (GER)  <—-won Vail in 2009, 3rd in 2011

9. Loic Gaidioz  (FRA)

11. Jeremy Bonder  (FRA)  <—–surprised everyone by doing really well last comp

11. Rei Sugimoto  (JPN)

13. Nicky De Leeuw  (NED)

13. Anthony Gullsten  (FIN)

15. Mario Lechner  (AUT)

15. Lucas Preti  (ITA)

17. Christian Core  (ITA)  <–born 1974!

17. Edward Feehally  (aka Ned. From GBR)

19. Rustam Gelmanov  (RUS)  <——–won last 2 comps!

19. Stewart Watson  (GBR)

For full men’s quali results click here


Will report on semis and finals tomorrow and will add more photos of qualis once I’m home. UPDATE – Photos up.

Stay tuned!

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  1. August 26, 2012 at 12:56 pm

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