Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Bouldering World Cup #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Finals Problem 4

Bouldering World Cup #4 – Innsbruck, Austria – Finals Problem 4

Problems 1, 2, & 3 coming tomorrow. Here is 4!

Women’s Final 4

Balance move out a roof to a double jump to two sloping balls. Left to a triangle volume, heel hook up to bonus hold. Match. Left hand up to what looks like an incut flake. Small mantle to the finish.

Katha does double jump at the start, falls off sticking it.

Commentators say it is a traditional start in Tirol (region of Austria) and that Anna will probably flash it. Katha sticks 2nd go. Sticks bonus. Grabs next hold. Mantles up. Sends!

Commentators say they think it is a 1 move boulder, and that move is the start dyno. We’ll see…

Melissa. If she flashes she could win. The announcers are excited. She sticks the dyno first go. Gets to the bonus.

Matches.  Looking good. Hits next hold. Mantles. Flashes!!! This will make for a very exciting final position. She will most likely remain on the podium, and is currently sitting in first.

Melissa knew she was done and did a small fist-pump midway to the final hold

Shauna. If she flashes she will win the comp.  And the website crashed.  And I have no idea how she did.

Jain – feed is back. She’s already in 6th and can’t get out of it but she’s still giving some good attempts. Chris said that in semis she was one of only 3 females to stick a sideways dyno. She’s having quite a bit of trouble with the roof at the start of this problem. Keeps falling off the swing.

Jain sticking the swing

Finally sticks it!

Jain using the ole’ inside heel hook maneuver

She climbs through the rest fairly easily and finishes the problem!

Jain atop Final 4

Anna is either at 3 from 6 or 3 from 7 (depending on technical on 1st boulder) and it could make the difference. If she flashes she will win.

Anna flashes. She knows she’s won and she celebrates.

Anna Stöhr cheering her victory

~

Men’s Problem 4

A steep powerful looking problem with two huge teardrop volumes up an overhanging arete.

Ned on the start of Men’s Final 4

Ned falls off low moving to the teardrop volume. Falls again. Again. Seems like moving off the start slopers is tough business. He keeps trying to heel hook right on the right start hold to move to the first volume. Not quite working. Falls again. Parsons says the setters just tweaked this problem to be harder. Seems like they may have overdone it. Ned falls again, and is done. Commentators are very proud of his effort.

Ned so close to the first move

Jakob also falls off trying to stick the teardrop. Hits it but swings off. Webb-Parsons says he hopes the setters haven’t made it too hard. Jakob nearly sticks it and falls again. Nearly sticks, swings out, swings back in, falls off. Webb-Parsons is really worried that the setters turned the hold too far and botched the route. Tries again, helicopters off.

Jakob Schubert successfully using the heel hook method to do the start

He is so close to sticking but keeps spinning off. Finally tries heel method, sticks it, puts left heel on too, slips off suddenly. One more try, 10 seconds. Back on. The crowd is cheering. Sticks it again. Matches, hits bonus, slips off. Done.

Jakob off at the bonus

Rustam could also win. I have no idea how he is doing though because the website is down. I missed him and I missed Stewart, and I guess neither of them did well enough because the feed is back and it’s Kilian’s turn and they’re saying Kili already won.

Kilian isn’t having an easy time on F4 even though he’s already won. Webb-Parsons says he wishes the setters hadn’t tweaked it as the climbers are tired and it’d be nice to see a top on the last problem. He sticks the bottom with the heel hook move, sticks bonus, and jumps to the red but doesn’t stick it.

Kilian about to jump for the red hold.

Good jump though. Gets back on, falls off 1st move. Gets back on again, sticks 1st move, back to bonus, foot pops and he’s off. But he’s already won. Waves to the crowd and bows to much applause. Gets interviewed directly after and says he’s really happy to win at home, it’s one of his greatest victories.

The announcers call it a fairy tale ending – the local couple, Anna and Kilian, both winning in their whole town.

Sean is last and he knows he can’t win but he can get second. He gives it a strong go and he’s the only one to stick the first move of 4 as a jump. Matches. Gets bonus. Jumps for red and misses. Sticks 1st move again. Bonus again.

He is making this look much easier than the others did. Falls again from bonus.

nobody could hold this with their feet off

It seems like if the feet come off climbers can’t hold the teardrops, so feet have to stay on. Unfortunately there aren’t any feet for the move to the red. It’s a big jump. Again he gets up to bonus, again falls. The crowd gives him a big applause and he’s done.

They interviewed Sean and he said he’s really happy with his performance, first finals of the year. Says it’s a big confidence boost, he knows he’s training right and is excited for upcoming comps. Really really motivated to climb.

 ~
More coming soon with finals problems 1 & 2. Stay tuned!
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Categories: 2012, Comps, World Cup
  1. Paul
    May 20, 2012 at 12:50 am

    shauna did it 3rd three

  2. Paul
    May 20, 2012 at 12:51 am

    try*

  3. Jackie
    May 20, 2012 at 9:50 am

    Thanks!

  1. August 26, 2012 at 12:56 pm

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