Home > 2012, Comps, World Cup > Vail World Cup 2012 – Women’s Finals 3 & 4

Vail World Cup 2012 – Women’s Finals 3 & 4

Because there are so many pictures I am dividing these into problem sets. This is Women’s 3 & 4. 1 & 2 and Men’s coming soon.


Women’s Final 3

This problem involved some steep moves and sequence reading to a committing dyno. The cross under looked powerful, and grabbing two left-facing bubble wraps and jumping out left to the two huge teknik blocs was somewhat intimidating to watch. The dyno produced the correct effect of wild swings and drama for the crowd. From there it was either a long lock off (Alex), a mantle/lock-off (Shauna) or use the arete and stand up (lurch for Anna, casual heel-hook for Jule) to the finish.

Melanie on the bottom of Final 3

Alex did the cross-under quite well.

Alex Puccio mid prob 3. She couldn’t stick the dyno.

Anna stuck the dyno but couldn’t lock-off to the end so while trying to decide what to do she rested on the blocs.

Anna finally decided to use the arete and worked her way up, then lurched to the top and stuck it.

Alex Johnson about to dyno.

Alex cruised the dyno and could reach the lock off move and did it relatively easily.

Shauna using the both-hands-on-the-low-hold method to stick the swing.

Shauna tried the end, then rested, then tried it again, all without letting go.

Finally Shauna tried mantling the left hand to make the long move to the finish. It’s hard to see but if you look closely you will see that Shauna’s left hand is turned, whereas above Alex’s left hand isn’t.

It worked. She was so relieved.

Jule sticking the dyno on her second try. Look how high she is!

It took her two tries to get here, but once she did Jule casually rocked over on her heel for this last move, making it look way easier than the previous competitors had.

Problem 3 Performance:

Anna, Shauna, Alex Johnson – Flash

Jule – 2nd go (fell at dyno first go)

Alex Puccio, Mélanie – flash to bonus, no top


Women’s Final 4

This problem had Team America written all over it. Powerful moves up a steep arete with a dynamic move to a bubble-wrap and a struggle to the finish. Alex and Alex clawed their way up it one after the other. The rest of the competitors had more trouble–with Anna Stöhr taking 5 tries to seal the deal. Shauna almost made it but was too tired in the end to do the last two moves. Jule, after leading through the comp, fell apart here and couldn’t even make it to the bonus hold.

I don’t know if Jule was too short or was too tired but she had real trouble with these bottom moves.

Melanie got here ok but couldn’t stick the jump to the half moon bubble wrap.

Alex Johnson sticking the huge swing on the move to the bubble half moon. She swung around a few times and probably should have fallen off except she wasn’t in the mood to let go so instead she magically hung on and continued up.

Shauna Coxsey also stuck this move in dramatic style, but was so tired she could not finish the problem.

Anna Stohr near the top. With right on arete, bump left to crimp on volume, left again to finish.

Alex Puccio made short work of the problem and looked the strongest on each move as she hiked her way to the flash.

Alex Johnson put on her “not letting go” face and absolutely crushed this problem.

Problem 4 Performance:

Alex Johnson – flash

Alex Puccio – flash

Anna Stohr – bonus 2nd try, top 5th try

Shauna Coxsey – flash to bonus, no top

Mélanie Sandoz – flash to bonus, no top

Juliane Wurm – no bonus, no top


Full Women’s Final Results from IFSC – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional Resultlist Final W O M E N bouldering

Full Women’s Results for entire comp – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering

Men’s Coming Soon!


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