Home > 2012, Font, Setting Update > Setting Update 8/7 and 8/8 – Font Boulder! + POTW + New Comments System + Top Outs?!

Setting Update 8/7 and 8/8 – Font Boulder! + POTW + New Comments System + Top Outs?!

Setting Update

Ok, so I am back, but Nic is still at his other job. That means that on Tuesday Jon, Jay Jay, Danny, Connor, Dave Wetmore, and I stripped and started resetting Font. On Wednesday Jonny, Danny, Jay Jay, Jon and I finished it. Here are some pictures. No brand-new-for-today holds, but we’ve gotten so many new holds lately that we’ve got a great selection of newer holds to mix with our old favorites, and we are very happy about it. Here are pictures of the boulder. For the sake of loading I will make the pics smaller here, but if you click on them you can see the blown up version if you want to look at specific holds/problems.

The slab. Not too many holds, but the problems are good!

Problems Of The Week

As is the new usual, we will have two Problems of the Week. The first is also a problem flagged for the new comment system, as explained below. Here is a picture of both:

I will leave this pic big so you can see. POTW #1 is Jay Jay’s Neon Orange 4 spot that starts on the big So Ill feature with the jib screwed to it on the left bottom of this face. There is a small #1 on a Spot disk next to it. Read on for the info on that. POTW #2 is my red 3 spot that starts in the middle of this face on the teal green Franklin jug. It climbs up through the cool tweaked Pusher Jabba (green twisty thing) to the top of the prow. Enjoy!

New Comment System

The little red Spot disk with the number on it is one of two on the Font boulder. There will be 10 total in the gym, generally 2 per boulder/wall. Jay Jay made them especially for us at her other job.

Tag example. This is #1 and it refers to the Neon Orange 4 spot next to it.

What are they for? We are experimenting with a new comment system in which we will solicit comments on a small selection of problems from each new set. Special comment cards will be at the desk for a few weeks so you can ask questions of the desk folk if you have any.

The new comment card. It may change as we see what works and what doesn’t.

After the break-in period we will move the setting comment cards to the glass table next to the general gym comment cards. The goal is to find out how our problems are perceived by our customers by collecting a wide variety of opinions on specific examples of problems. In addition, we want to know how you feel about the setting in general or if you ever have specific commentary on another problem, so please feel free to write about additional problems on the back of the setting comment cards. Cards can be deposited in the Spot Comments box (on the wall between the bathrooms) and we will be answering our comments on the comments board (also between the bathrooms) and also here on the blog.

So that’s it! Sounds pretty simple, no? So try it out!

Top Outs?!

You may have noticed that there are untaped holds on the tops of the Font and Hueco boulders. We have decided that instead of putting 8 pieces of tape on the same jug, all holds above the lip on the Font and Hueco are officially considered “naturals’ and are on all problems.  Let us know how you like this system!

And Finally…

More updates are coming soon on the blog with info on our sweet new hangboards and cool stuff I saw at the trade show. Stay tuned!

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