Home > 2012, DRCC, Holds, Strange Breakages > An Incredible Failure

An Incredible Failure

Setting update coming soon, but first…

A Phenomenal Failure

Wow. That’s not right.

I don’t know what happened here. Well, I do, but it’s still pretty amazing. The story starts with these HRT holds we got. They are super thin and super light and strong, and the texture is different but interesting. The problem lies in the fact that they have metric washers. This means the standard heads of the bolts we use work their way through the washers because they are smaller than the washers. It’s a fairly easy fix, you get a washer, we use little lock-washers that are bigger than the bolt heads and bigger than the existing washer, and as you twist the bolt tightens down the washer til it locks. They could be a tad bit bigger and they’d be even better but they’ll do the job.

The HRT Hollow-Back. Notice how much room the standard bolt has in the bolt hole. Also notice how the hold supports curve in near the bolt hole. Is it for structural reasons?

So we have these HRT holds, we have these lock washers, and Danny is adding one to the bottom of the DRCC bolt-on volume. This volume is awesome, it has many many t-nut options on it and we’ve used nearly all of them at one time when we covered it with tiny blue crimps to prevent a heel-lock and plus it looked cool.

Another use of the bolt-on volume. See all the bolt holes?

Anyways, as Danny is twisting down the bolt the washer starts to tighten and he has to put a little force into it to make sure the washer locks. Jon is egging him on, one more turn he says, and all of a sudden there’s a minor explosion. And this is what we got:

Total failure

What the volume now looks like

I should note that I think this particular failure was a combination of factors, not that the hold was necessarily weak but that a lot of spring-loaded force was put on it from the pushed-in hollow-back hold and the lock washer. Also, Danny is a beast.  Here are some side photos where you can see how the volume warped into the bolt-hole before it failed:

Amazing

Look closely. 

Glad it broke off while we were setting and not after.

So that happened. I still think the volume is a good hold, and we’re going to get another one. Just perhaps avoid unduly stressing the t-nuts, especially the center t-nut with all the others around to make it theoretically the weakest one on the volume.

And that’s all for now. I’ll update again soon with a setting update, some sweet new holds we just got, and more shenanigans from the crew. Exciting training update also on the horizon!

 

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Categories: 2012, DRCC, Holds, Strange Breakages
  1. Allan
    April 26, 2013 at 6:15 am

    HRT OWNS FTW 😀
    I’d say the prob is in the volume not the hold

  2. Jackie
    April 26, 2013 at 9:37 am

    I think it was a combo problem Allan. Too many slightly off factors = failure.

  3. Allan
    May 14, 2013 at 12:22 am

    I used to route-set for a pretty large gym in Belgium a few years back and we’ve had a huge load of those hollow backed HRT holds ..

    Never had an issue like this – quite the contrary these were super strong and freakin light – we used to tighten these bad boys with pneumatic torques and no such issues. (we also used to set the torque to sky high levels – smth like 150nM) and although I give my kudos to Danny for being a beast – I am not sure he managed to use that much force 🙂

    I believe that the bigger hole for the bolt is coz of the larger insert normally used in Europe + the curvature seems to help the holds to remain strong even when overtightened (they bend a bit to distribute the tightening force) so structural reasons as you mention in the article sound pretty legit to me.

    BTW I think the guys from HRT actually started using smaller washers which fit both metric and imperial bolts .. but cannot confirm 100% as we didn’t pay that much attention at that time to this..they just clicked in Europe so washer size was a no biggie.

    But as I said last time (a bit on the fly) – the reason I believe could be a complex one but not the hold … I would look for problems in the volume which tore apart.

    end line … kudos to Danny 🙂

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