Home > 2012, Holds, New Holds!, Problem Of The Week, Pusher, Setting Update, Teknik > Setting Update for 8/25 & 8/26 + New Teknik + Rate Boulders + LOBSTER TAIL!

Setting Update for 8/25 & 8/26 + New Teknik + Rate Boulders + LOBSTER TAIL!

So we reset the Dojo. Also, Danny fixed a bunch of t-nuts, and Danny and Jonny mounted a tricky expedition to cut a Motivation Volume off the wall without damaging it too badly. They did damage the sawblade, but the volume came out of it alright. There are problems going out the roof from 3+ to 5+, including several jug hauls of varying difficulties, an extremely tensiony crimp masterpiece from Jonny and a powerful and dynamic boulder from Dave. The bulge and vertical wall have problems of all sorts. Here are some pictures:

Lubar atop the new left dojo

The new Dojo cave. Rich is staring at the lobster tail in awe. Jon…?

New right dojo. What is that big white hold? A lobster tail?! Scroll down to find out more.


New Teknik!


So cool. Look for this on the left bulge and on one of the problems of the week (see below for details)

Sweet! Look for these on two problems, one on right dojo vert wall, one on left dojo bulge.


Rate Boulders

We’re continuing our new boulder rating experiment. Jay Jay has tagged two boulders from last week’s River set and two from this week’s Dojo set. Incidentally, these are also last week’s problems of the week. They are all hard this week, next week we will have some easier boulders as well. Check ’em out, fill out the sheets (available at the front desk) and drop them in the “suggestions” box on the wall between the bathrooms. We always appreciate other feedback as well. Thanks!

River POTW’s

#6 Left river, pink crimper problem, 5 by Jonny.

#5 Right River, red with arrow, 4+ by Jackie

Dojo POTW’s

#7 Left Dojo Neon Pink 5+ by Dave Wetmore. Tricky! Check out that bloctite feature!

#8 Neon Green 4 by Jay Jay



That’s right, we’ve got our mitts on a brand new urethane blend Lobster Tail. This old Pusher dual-tex feature has been out of production for some time, and it used to be SUPER heavy. Well, now it’s back, and between urethane and a semi-hollow back it’s much lighter than the originals were. Check it!

Lobster Tail!!! Looks huge-r when anyone but Jon is grabbing it.

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