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The Gun Show 2012! – 1st photos

September 30, 2012 Leave a comment

Team ABC dunking Coach Ryan at The Gun Show

The first photos of the 2012 Gun Show are in, check them out on facebook here (you don’t have to be a facebook member to see them):

The Gun Show 2012

More Gun Show 2012

Spot Team Climber Emily atop the Dojo | Katrin Bell

More photos on the way, including more from the Adult Event and pro finals!

Many of the photos are by photographer Katrin Bell who just moved here from Florida. We think she did an amazing job, and you can check out her website here – Katrin Bell Photography – Fine Art With Photography

Katrin will be putting up an online gallery soon where you can order blown-up prints if you’d like any from this event.

Margo Hayes of Team ABC Boulder on O4. Margo made pro finals! | Katrin Bell

More photos and results coming soon!

 

 

SBS 8 Comp 1 – The Gun Show!

September 25, 2012 Leave a comment

The Gun Show!

This weekend SBS 8 kicks off with The Gun Show!

The Gun Show is ABS Sanctioned, so you can earn points for Nationals!

SBS comps are great for everyone, 10 problems are set for each category: youth, rec, int, advanced, and open. Top 6 men and women will compete in a single onsight pro final.

3 hr redpoint climbing sessions, so it’s just like a day at the gym, but with all new problems and great comp energy.

Youth sessions in the am, adults 5-8 pm

We feed you for FREE with the La Sportiva BBQ, Avery Beer, and Mix 1

Pull-up Contest!

Huge raffle!

Remember Pro Finals 2010?

Pre-register to make your life easier on comp day. Also you can find answers to any questions you might have at this link.

See you at The Spot!

The Gun Show | The Spot Bouldering Gym & Climbing School | Boulder, CO

Categories: 2012, Comps, Gun Show, SBS 8

New Hold Company on the List – 3D Climb

September 24, 2012 2 comments

http://www.3dclimb.com  ~  stian@3dclimb.com  ~  47.45.06.82.70  ~  Norway

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Out of Norway and focused on the style of Fontainebleau comes 3D holds. Here are some of the shapes from their site

Catalog – ‎3dclimb.com/Katalog_3DClimb.pdf

Anyone have any experience with ’em?

Maintenance For Membership Opportunity! – UPDATED

September 23, 2012 2 comments

Hi all!

You may have heard of the Spot’s successful M4M (Maintenance for Membership) program. The program allows you to earn hours towards free membership months by helping us at The Spot. You can also use your hours for comp entry fees.

We have a limited number of spaces open for M4Mers with the routesetting crew during comp season. Setting M4M helpers will help us strip and clean up the walls the nights before comp setting and also help wash holds. There may be other tasks available as well, for example, during Psychedelia hours will be available for decorating the walls, and Josh Paton, facilities manager, often needs help hanging banners, signs, and lights, setting up barriers and tables, etc…

M4Mers with good availability will be given first priority, and existing M4Mers in good standing will be given first priority at future jobs. We really appreciate all the help, and please understand that we are trading you good value for your work, so this is a job, and if you sign up we expect you to show up.

For the upcoming Gun Show, we are looking for help for the following times. End times are approximate and will depend on if the job is finished and your availability. If you want to help but can’t come in til a little later than the time listed, email me and we’ll see what we can do:

Wednesday  9/26  –  10pm – 11:30pm  – strip and clean up the Beach and Dojo

Thursday 9/27 –  12pm (noon) – 2pm  –  wash holds

Thursday 9/27  –  10pm – midnight  –  strip and clean up rest of gym

Friday 9/28 – 12pm (noon) – 2, or whenever – wash holds

If you have questions or are interested in helping through the Maintenance for Membership program, please email me at routesetting@thespotgym.com.  Thanks!

UPDATE – We have filled all the positions for this event with the setting department. There may be additional opportunities available with facilities, email Josh Paton at facilities@thespotgym.com if you are interested. Also, we will have more m4m shifts available for Psychedelia in October, and will be working the week of Oct 16th-19th to prepare for that event. If you are interested in those shifts please email routesetting@thespotgym.com so I can get you on the list and also email events@thespotgym.com if you are interested in helping decorate the gym for Psychedelia on October 20th. Thanks!

Categories: 2012, Comps, SBS 8

New Film from LT11 – ABYSS!!!

September 17, 2012 Leave a comment

The film includes many first ascents by setter Jon as well as some Danny from 2011 and some Dave. Interviews include Glassberg and Rich Crowder as well as John Sherman, Joe Kinder, Ben Scott, Ben Spannuth, Chris Schulte, Paige Claassen, Peter Beal, Access Fund Director Brady Robinson, Revolution/Pusher founder/owner Clark Shelk, Herm Feissner, and even a short bit from Chris Sharma! Climbers include Glassberg, Crowder, Claassen, Spannuth, Schulte, Wetmore, Matty Hong, Matt Wilder, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ryan Silven, Adam Healy (uncredited), and even a distance shot of our good friends Devin Finucane and Chris Taylor questing up some unknown alpine cracks.

For outtakes, the free full-length download, and more, go to the Abyss LT11 site by clicking the logo here:

Nice job Jon, Jordan, and Rich on this fantastic new film!

First 8B+ / V14 for Dave Wetmore!

September 16, 2012 Leave a comment

We would like to congratulate setter Dave Wetmore on his first V14 with Big Worm at Mount Evans. This was unfinished business for Dave, who 7 years ago injured his pulley so badly on this problem that he had to return home to Boston and have surgery. After a break from climbing he slowly recovered and came back to Colorado to finish the boulder. Finish he did, sending Friday the 14th. Nice job Dave!

Dave’s send on 8a.nu

Categories: 2012, Outdoor Climbing, Setters

Reset Updates for Yosemite and Back Hueco (Sept 4th & 5th) + Another Weird Break

September 15, 2012 Leave a comment

Last week we reset the back Hueco and the Yosemite wall.

New Back Hueco

New Back Hueco

From this set there are some sweet problems including the wonderful yellow balance problem in the scoop. Start right, move to yellow brick in left side of scoop, match, foot up left, somehow get up and left to the jug. Nice!

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New Yosemite

New right Yosemite

New Middle Yosemite

New Left Yosemite

Things to notice about the new set on the Yosemite:

1) Problems are roughly color-coded by hold color.

2) Some problems have multiple finish points–each is marked with a U box.

3) There is a white traverse that runs the length of the wall.

Hopefully these things will make it easier for kids and newer climbers to enjoy the Yosemite wall.

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Another Weird Break

Well this isn’t right…

hmm…

It just broke off the wall. Don’t worry, this isn’t normal hold behavior. Definitely strange. Considering the number of these we’ve broken, I’d say this urethane has proved to be too soft, or something. Too many have fallen apart.

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So that’s all for now. Stay tuned for an explanation of just what we were doing to the Front Hueco last week.

2012 IFSC World Championships – Blind Climbing B1

September 15, 2012 2 comments

Preview

After the Men’s Bouldering final they moved right into the Paraclimbing B1 (Blind category 1) climbing final. 3 climbers and their helpers came out to preview the route. Since the climbers are all blind this means the helpers previewed the route and also told the climbers what the moves were, often manipulating their arms to give them an idea of the upcoming moves.

Preview

 

You can see the two top ropes here.

The climbers were tied in with 2 ropes, one toprope and a 2nd mini-toprope that was clipped in maybe 1/3 of the way up the wall. The wall was overhanging, and the idea of the mini-toprope was to keep the climbers off the ground if they fell early, sort of how gritstone climbers use multiple ropes sometimes.

The route is on the leftmost wall.

Kenji’s helper yelling to him.

Kenji doing well. He fell right here after not figuring out to match and move left. He scored 14.

Blind climbing seems to take a ton of endurance, as you have to hold holds and body positions for as long as it takes to find the next hold. Not sure? Get a blindfold and try it yourself! It’s definitely safest on toprope though, so you don’t have to worry about landing.

The French finalist Nicolas Moineau climbed 2nd.

Nicolas sets off. He went blind at age 3 and started climbing at 17 (I think the announcer said 17) so he learned to climb blind.

These guys used the headset/walkie talkie method.

Nicolas set a new high point, and he made it all the way to the roof before falling. He scored 23+.

Nicolas coming down.

Finally the 1st seeded Italina climber Matteo came out.

You can see his headset.

Matteo got higher than Kenji, but for some reason ended up in 3rd. He scored 10. There must have been a technical of some sort that I didn’t hear about.

The Champion and his helper.

The Podium. Matteo (3rd place, on the right) pretty much sobbed his way through the ceremony. You could see it meant a lot to him to be able to be here.

Men’s Podium

All in all it was a very interesting event. See full results here – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result MEN visual impairment B1

 

2012 IFSC World Championships – Men’s Bouldering

September 15, 2012 Leave a comment

Kilian (2nd), Dmitrii (1st), Rustam (3rd)

The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event.  Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.

Here are some random shots and info from finals:

Men’s 1

Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.

Men’s 2

Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.

Kilian flashing Men’s 2

Jan Hojer on Men’s 2. Looked good, then fell apart a second later.

Men’s 3

Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.

Rei Sugimoto struggling with the transition on Men’s 3

Rustam on the start mantle of Men’s 3

Rustam working his way around this cruxy corner on Men’s 3. These moves really shut the climbers down.

Rustam on Men’s 3. Not a great shot but LOOK AT HIS LEFT ARM!

Dmitrii leaning right…

Dmitrii leaned, leaned, and then sort of deadpointed right hand to the bonus hold while flipping left. He caught himself and sent for the flash.

Sean suffered here and didn’t make it to bonus.

Killian took a different tactic, but it still didn’t work.

Jan Hojer also suffered on this one.

Men’s 4

This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.

Rei flashed to bonus, then fell, then got back on and sent.

Rustam manhandling the volume.

Dmitrii sticking the move out left the same way Rustam did. This seemed to be the hardest move on the problem.

Sean McColl and wow look at the walls!

Sean after sending. He knew he didn’t win but he stayed a good sport for the crowd. Which is huge. Look at that crowd!

Kilian

Kilian finishing.

Jan Hojer and…crowd!

Jan

The End

All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )

Men’s Bouldering Finalists

Wow.

Dmitrii and his girlfriend

The Walls

Final Results

Next Up

Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.

Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays.  Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012

Reel Rock 2012 Thursday and Friday!

September 12, 2012 1 comment

That’s right, this Thursday (that’s tomorrow!) and this Friday The Spot will be at Reel Rock! Come by and see us during the pre-show and make sure you pick up your coupon for a free day pass. If you’re already a member, and we hope you are, you can use it to bring a friend or family member in to check out The Spot. Also exciting–the pre-tour ads will feature a short piece by setter Jon Glassberg and washer Jordan Shipman’s media company Louder Than 11.

If you don’t have tickets you’d better call around, we’re all sold out!

See you there!

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