Home > 2013, Setting Update > Setting Update + This Week’s Plans

Setting Update + This Week’s Plans

The Spot Bouldering Gym The Dojo

Two weeks ago’s second Dojo Set

As you probably know if you’ve been into the Spot lately, we have been filling in like crazy and the whole gym has a high density of problems. Most recently (last week) we added a bunch to the Hueco. Before that it was the Dojo, before that the Font, before that a 2nd day on the River, and before that we finished the Beach with a 3-day effort. This week we are planning to strip the River and begin the reset there on our normal reset schedule.

On the training front, both systems walls have been reset, and Ian Powell is currently at work applying some new e-grips and his training theories to the treadwall (which is fixed, yay!). Ian will be setting normal treadwall circuit problems as well so you can continue your regular treadwall training methods as soon as that’s all set up. Til then you can climb on the treadwall between Ian’s setting sessions. He is also due to give the Yosemite wall some love so we’ll have some new problems and a new traverse there.

A quick note on the treadwall–it is fully adjustable, but please take care if you are adjusting it. We had to order custom machined parts to fix the adjustment system and, though those pieces are strong, if abused they can still break. If the treadwall isn’t moving the way it should or if anything else seems not quite right with it please inform the front desk asap so we can address the problem before it becomes a major issue that shuts the wall down again.

So that’s where we’re at. Hope you’re enjoying the problems. Look forward to a new River set this week!!!

Categories: 2013, Setting Update
  1. Concerned Climber
    March 11, 2013 at 9:31 am

    Maybe we could get some strong forerunners in who aren’t part of the setting crew this week? Might help avoid the dangerous and simply bad problems we’ve been seeing a lot of lately.

    • Jackie
      March 11, 2013 at 12:45 pm

      As Connor has said, please expand on what you mean by “simply bad” with specific examples. If you’d like to come in tomorrow or Wednesday this week when we are setting we’d love to hear your perspective on which problems specifically you don’t like and why. We’ll be here from 9-4 both days, except around 11-11:45 when we take lunch. Thanks!

  2. Connor Griffith
    March 11, 2013 at 11:00 am

    Concerned Climber: just wondering, what do you mean by strong forerunners? That couldn’t possibly mean climbing strength, as we pretty much cover the spectrum of grades with our setters’ climbing abilities. Maybe you mean we need a fresh perspective on our problems, which could be a good idea. However, bringing in strong climbers with no setting experience to help revise our problems will not necessarily fix the “dangerous and simply bad” routes; I personally don’t see a connection between these two things. Also, I understand you’re entitled to your opinion that many of our problems are “simply bad,” but would you mind expanding on the specific ones you think are dangerous? This will help us avoid setting similarly dangerous boulders in the future. Thanks.

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