Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > IFSC World Cup Finals Millau 2013 – Problem 1

IFSC World Cup Finals Millau 2013 – Problem 1

Women’s 1

7A+ (V6 ish)

Jule Wurm

Jule Wurm

The problem began with a run and jump to two good opposing pinches. Once they stuck the top looked pretty easy. The announcers are unclear as to whether the attempts at the run-and-jump count, as the start holds are taped up the wall, but they are being scored as soon as their feet leave the ground.

Anna fell from the start run and jump 2x, then finished.

Katha Saurwein fell from the start 2x (I thought 3x? but the announcer said 2), then stuck and finished.

Jule Wurm apparently did it on her 2nd go.

Akiyo Noguchi did it 3rd or 4th go.

Shauna Coxsey fell 1st go without even hitting the pinches. Fell 2x more. Maybe again. Stuck the first move and finished it.

Alex Puccio, predictably, had some trouble with the run and jump. She fell a bunch, got closer and closer and looked quite a bit like Shauna in her jumps. The announcers said she injured her knee in qualis yesterday. This must be super frustrating for her, coming in in 1st and getting shut down on the first problem.

Jule Wurm

Jule at the top.

It was a weird problem, in that the scores didn’t seem to match up with what was on the live feed, but the feed may have been showing replays. Approx. ranking according to announcers:

Jule Wurm (2)

Anna Stohr (3)

Akiyo (4)

Katha (5)

Shauna (8)

Alex Puccio


Men’s 1

7B+ (V8)

Lukas Ennemoser stuck the difficult dyno to the double gastons and finished for the flash in about 15 seconds.

Kilian Fischhuber flashed also.

Kilian Fischhuber

From here it’s a bad right foot, push up to a sidepull on the volume, grab the end.

Guillaume flashed also.

Rustam Gelmanov fell 9x. He looked close but then fell over and over. Once he tried to climb without jumping but it didn’t work. He just wasn’t getting high enough to stick. He is currently (from last season) ranked 1st in the world. Last comp (first of 2013) in China he ended up in 4th. So far in this comp final he is in last.

Jorg Verhoeven flashed? (topped) Below he is grabbing the last hold.

Jorg Verhoeven

Dmitri Sharafutdinov flashed.

Dmitri Sharafutdinov




Categories: 2013, Comps, World Cup

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