Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > World Cup Millau – Problem 2

World Cup Millau – Problem 2

Women’s 2

7B (V7)

 Anna Stohr

Anna had some trouble in the middle with this cross off a heel-hook to a gaston. She fell a couple of times, then threw her left hand down to the blue triangle a she swung and caught herself, then finished the boulder. The last move is a bit of a dyno to a pinch with a swing you have to hold to match.

Anna Stohr

Katha fell from the low crux once or twice, then got through the low crux, got bonus, and fell jumping to the final hold. Got back up in last seconds. Back to bonus. Fell again on the last move.

Katha Saurwein

Katha on the bonus hold sizing up the last move.

Jule came out, did the bottom easily, fell from the last move. Fell there at least 2x more. Did not finish.

Jule not quite sticking the top.

Jule not quite sticking the top.

Akiyo Noguchi

Akiyo sticking it.

Akiyo Noguchi finished. I’m not sure if it was 1st go.

Shauna Coxsey came out, looked good to flash, fell from the last move. Next go she stuck!

Shauna Coxsey

Alex came out last. May have fallen once (I didn’t see it) but did the problem fairly easily. Nice job Alex!

Alex Puccio

~

Men’s 2

7B+ (V8)

Lucas Ennemoser

This is how you get off the ground. Then you turn and mantle into the gray volumes. Stand. Grab bonus hold (tiny gaston) or touch it and skip it to jump to the final hold (right-facing pink blob).

Lucas did not finish. I don’t think he got bonus even. Looked very strong though.

Kilian Fischhuber

Kilian on the bonus hold.

Kilian fell getting off the ground. 2nd go he figured it out, started mantling the volume, and fell. 3rd go he mantled differently, got bonus, fell moving to last hold. 4th go he sent.

GG came out, monkeyed around, fell. Tried different things, even ended up using a hold on the women’s problem (not marked off, after all), but didn’t get there. Did touch the bonus hold one go though so probably scored for that. UPDATE – yes, got scored for it.

Guillaume Glairon Mondet

GG on the bottom.

Rustam came out, put in some really good effort on the mantle but didn’t seem flexible enough to get in the position he needed to be in. Eventually fell from 2 gray holds. Then tried to straight-mantle center gray hold, but no luck. Then tried it again, did a huge meat-wrap and straight-mantled the center volume only! It was incredible!

Rustam Gelmanov

Rustam Gelmanov

Got bonus, fell moving to last hold when his foot slipped. Out of time.

Rustam Gelmanov

Jorg Verhoeven was next. Fell from the bottom. Fell again. Seemed to lose track of the clock and was suddenly done before he knew it. No send or bonus.

Dmitrii started a little differently. Moved into the position Kilian and GG used to mantle, then slipped. Slipped some more. Didn’t get anywhere.

~

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Categories: 2013, Comps, World Cup

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