IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final 4 + Jakob on Final 3 Again
Final Problem 4
Women’s Final 4
First go Alex fell on the 3rd or 4th move. She got back on and climbed the boulder to the top, though it definitely looked hard and from the viewer’s perspective there was a question as to whether or not she’d fall off on nearly every move. She didn’t. Nice Alex!
Mina Markovic got up to the big orange death star / donut, squeezed her way up the arete, did some kind of kneebar to move to the top. I guess it was a flash? Nice Mina!
Katha did well on the start, then seemed to struggle moving out to the donut. She hesitated, then just skipped it, went to bonus, right toe in donut, basically just dynoed to the top. Didn’t look that hard for her. Done.
Akiyo doesn’t seem to be having as easy a time with this as she did with the last. She seems to struggle but keeps going slowly and finishes the boulder.
Anna went backwards to the first hold but matched it somehow and kept going up. She also ignored the donut for her hands, only putting a heel in it, and easily finishing for the flash and the win.
Shauna is last out. She looks strong, climbs the bottom well, probably the best anyone has done it. Up to bonus with an inside flag. Foot in the donut, up to the last holds, feet cut and she swung them around for a bit long, finally pasted right foot on, jumped, barely stuck the top but did. Flash.
Men’s Final 4
Jernej Kruder stuck the double dyno but fell after trying to get out right to the bonus hold. Next go he got bonus via 360 backwards spin, got over on it, moved his feet over left, heel hooked, spun back around, heel hooked other foot, stuck the next hold, then fell trying to stick the big red sloper up and left. Fell there again. Done. Final score, ot, 3b.
Guillaume stuck the double dyno. Moved out right to bonus. Sitting on left heel moves up right to blue mouth sloper, sits on heel more, up left to red sloper, sticks it, jump-crosses to finish hold but falls. Again, but this time stems out to other wall, matches on red sloper, falls. Again. Can’t quite stick the last hold. Done.
Cedric climbed through the bottom easily as Guillaume had, fell where Guillaume did moving to the finish several times. Made the match on the red sloper nicely with the foot out left, but fell jumping to the last hold. No send. Gets back on. Too tired. Done.
Jakob came out and fell from the double dyno. If he finishes the problem he will win the comp. Next go he got through bonus, did a sweet vertical toe-cam, fell. Went back up, STUCK LAST MOVE! Two tops. Wins!
Thomas can’t win, but anyone who does this problem will podium, so he still has a chance at silver or bronze. We didn’t get to see all his tries as Anna was busy winning, but when they go back to him you can see him having had the bonus and falling. Didn’t finish.
Last out, Dmitrii, who, if he flashes, could actually win the comp due to the:
The announcer just came on saying that Jakob’s start position for problem 3 has been deemed illegal so that top was taken away from him. They’re going to make him try to re-climb problem 3 and if he doesn’t do it he may not win. The Austrian coach is NOT HAPPY.
So Dmitrii has his turn. Not sure if he knows about the situation with the scores and Jakob. He flashes to the last move and falls. Dmitrii goes back up, is climbing the bottom easily. Matching the red sloper easily. Jumps to the end and finishes. He is in 3rd at the least. Podium!
Jakob last go on Final Problem 3
So Jakob has to climb again. This problem looks super hard and it is disappointing for everyone I expect that he has to climb it again, but he does, so everyone is waiting around for that to happen. It goes, he sends! He wins!!!