IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #3 – Kitzbuhel – Final Problem 3
Final Problems 3
Women’s Final 3
Alex Puccio came out strong, flashed the problem seemingly easily.
Mina fell off part way up. Got back on. The holds looked like pretty bad sloper pinches with a bit of a fonty texture. Fell going for last move. Got back up there. Fell again. So close, fell again at the last move.
Katha fell at the bottom some. Seems to be have trouble sticking the bonus. I didn’t see her stick it.
The head setter Percey came out with a ladder and brushed the hold at the top, the 2nd to last hold on the problem, which Mina had seemed to have so much trouble holding onto to do the last move.
Akiyo flashed pretty easily. She got that last hold Percey brushed with one hand and pretty much one-armed to the top. It looked great, but it was kinda weird how easily she did it and how much trouble Mina was having on the same hold. Akiyo is redic strong though so it’s hard to say, but I can’t recall ever seeing a head setter come out with a ladder and brush a hold mid-comp before.
Anna flashed easily. She didn’t do the last move as easily as Akiyo had, but she did it easily enough.
Shauna seems to be climbing really carefully, trying not to fall off. She static-ed nearly every move, climbing in control and slowly slowly slowly. She locked off the last move casually. Flash.
Men’s Final 3
Kruder came out, looked at the problem for a while. Finally stepped off the ground, really seemed to be struggling but also trying hard not to fall off. Fell off. Tried a few different things, but kept falling. Pretty sure he didn’t even get bonus point.
Guillaume came out next, looked to be struggling as well. Fell where Jernej did. Then fell at start. Fell more. Ugh.
Cedric managed to get his left hand over instead of his right on the orange hold, letting him press out and stick, then match the bonus. The bonus is that EP teardrop volume, which apparently called the “Jiu-Jitsu hold” and was designed by well-known coursesetter Laurent LaPorte. Cedric got through the bottom again, seems to really be struggling working his way around the volume. Fell.
Jakob looked good, then dropped suddenly before bonus, looking like he twinged his shoulder a bit. Got back on, fell again. Fell a bunch more. Finally pressed out like Cedric did and got bonus. The live feed announcer said go right, and it made no sense to anyone, but Jakob actually did go right, gastoning the top of the volume. From there he lurched to a left hand crimp, came out quite a bit but stuck, and finished the problem! It was only the 2nd men’s top in the entire comp so far. He was very psyched, as was the hometown crowd.
Thomas flashed to press on the bonus, then fell. Did the bottom again, it looks pretty easy for him, but he falls moving into the volume again. Fell a bunch, no success.
Dmitrii managed bonus, matched bonus, left hand up (like Cedric was trying), moved his foot up, fell. Fell again. Lots of times. No send.
Screenshots to come later. For now, Problem 4!