Archive for May 17, 2013

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Semifinals Live Feed

May 17, 2013 1 comment

Semis run early Saturday morning. Here’s the Semis live feed (and live feed replay):

I’ll be watching it with you and most likely providing commentary of some form just after the round ends for those who can’t watch.

Finals later today!

Categories: 2013, World Cup

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Women’s Qualifiers

May 17, 2013 1 comment

Innsbruck World Cup 2013 Women's Qualifiers


Women’s Qualifiers

Group A

These problems appeared to be Balance, Power, Power, Power.

Only Alex and Anna sent everything in Group A, and they are tied for 1st with 8 total attempts each. Alex took 5 tries on quali 1 (a mantle to stand-up on a slab) and then flashed the rest. Anna flashed 1 & 2, then took 3 tries each to send 3 and 4. Momoko Oda is just behind them with 3 flashes and a flash to bonus on problem 2, but she didn’t finish problem 2.

Alex trying to balance mantle on B1

Alex trying to balance mantle on A1. She fell off the stand-up to the next hold a few times, then stuck it and finished. To the right you can see A2, A3, and the top of A4.

And Alex on A4.

A1, A2, and A3 on the left, A2, A3, and Alex on A4 on the right.

A better shot of the A problems. From right, A4, A3, A2.

A better shot of the A problems. From right, A4, A3, A2.


Group B

Shauna on B2

Shauna on the slippery B2. B1 to her right, B3 and B4 to her left.

For Group B, Akiyo Noguchi looked casual, flashing the first 3 before taking 3 tries to send problem 4. Her score was the best of the round–4 tops in 6 goes, and she was one of only 3 Group B competitors to send all their qualis.

Just behind her was Shauna Coxsey, who flashed 1, 3, & 4, but epiced on 2 for a minute with 3 goes to bonus and 5 goes to top. She was the only person to flash Quali B4. Her score then is 4/8 just like Anna and Alex in Group A.

Third in Group B is Swiss climber Petra Klingler, who has been having an interesting season. She’s missed semis twice but made in in 1st place in Kitzbuhel, only to fall to 14th in semis and not make finals. In this quali she flashed the first 3, then took 6 tries to send problem 4, for a score of 4/9. Hopefully she has a successful semifinal as well.


Awesome awesomeness

Screen Shot 2013-05-17 at 12.09.33 PM

I’d like to give some props to my friend Thomasina Pidgeon. Thomo is a Canadian climber, first famous from her ascent of the V10 Zero-Zero in Squamish in the early 2000s after only a couple of years of climbing, continually famous as the strongest female boulderer in Canada, who has sent many problems up to V12 outdoors and made many FFAs, and who is also the mother of a darling 6-year-old named Cedar. Two years ago around this time Thomo was sitting on my couch and we were watching the live feed of a bouldering World Cup.

“I want to do that.” She said.

“You should.” I said.

But she had some concerns. She isn’t a very dynamic climber. She’s not much of a plastic climber. She’s 10-20 years older than most of the competitors. She has a 6 year old daughter. Traveling to these comps is expensive, and there is no federation support. She has no trainer or physio. She doesn’t have much comp experience. Etc…etc… She also has a reputation to uphold, especially in Canada, and as a somewhat mysterious strong female boulderer, it’s risky to go out on a world stage and possibly prove that notion wrong. However, other older female competitors, some with children, helped Thomo see that it would be possible. She understood that competing is a different animal than outdoor climbing, and that if she went out and tried hard and failed, that wouldn’t change her accomplishments or abilities as a climber. If anything, she figured, she would grow from the experience.

Despite the difficulties and the risks, she decided to go for it–to push herself in a new way, to try competing, on ropes and in bouldering–and see what happened. In 2012 she earned a spot on the National team and competed in the Vail World Cup, where she got 31st out of 41 women. Then she and Cedar got plane tickets to Europe, and off they went.

She’s not much of a rope climber, though she’s trying to learn that also. In July 2012 she competed in the Lead World Cup in Chamonix. She had a bit of a tweaked finger, and when things started to go south she grabbed a draw rather than hurt herself and took 55th. In Briancon she took 47th. In Imst in August she took 39th, and at the next event, a Bouldering World Cup in Munich, she took 35th. 47th in bouldering at the World Championships in Paris was her last event for the 2012 season. In 2013 she’s done as many Bouldering World Cups as she can get to, with 40th in Millau, 51st in Kitzbuhel, 35th in Log Dragomer, and now 53rd in Innsbruck. She’s learning from each experience, and for all of us armchair World Cup viewers, her blog is well worth reading:

thomasina pidgeon

I’d like to say great job to Thomo for being so brave. The fact that she’s competing is super inspiring, and I hope she continues to compete, learn, and enjoy herself, and hopefully she’ll find her way into semifinals one of these days!

Thomasina Pidgeon on B1

Thomo on B1

Thomasina on B3

Two angles of Thomasina on B3, Afra Honig throwing double toes on B4.

Women's B4

The bottom of Women’s B4

Another shot of B4 with the bottom of A4 on the left as well.

Another shot of B4 (right) with the bottom of A4 on the left as well.

Shauna on B2

Two angles of Shauna on B4. Started low and left, up left hand red, jump to teardrop volume, match and jump right to orange volume, control swing, move up on blue volume, reach out to yellow, undercling yellow, to top.


Women’s Quali Results

20 women are going to semis.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Innsbruck Women's Quali ResultsScreen Shot 2013-05-17 at 11.24.21 AM


Full Women’s Quali Results

provisional Result: Qualification (A) W O M E N bouldering

provisional Result: Qualification (B) W O M E N bouldering


General result W O M E N bouldering


Re-watch the Live Feed

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Qualifiers Live Feeds


IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Men’s Quali Results

May 17, 2013 1 comment

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Innsbruck 2013 Stop 5 Men's Qualifiers


Men’s Qualifiers

The set-up in Innsbruck is much like in Vail in that the wall is outdoors and covered by a giant tent. Also much like Vail, it rained during qualifiers, and as the first two men’s problems were not protected by the tent, they got wet. Climbing was first delayed, then suspended on those problems, and eventually they scrapped the results for problem 1, so all who’d climbed it did extra work for no gain, and all who didn’t, well, didn’t.

Men’s qualis ended up being scored on problems 2-5 for each quali group. I also wonder if the intermittent storms didn’t affect the climbing in other ways, as many problems were volume heavy and with the storm comes more humidity and probably less friction, especially on the volumes. In either case, here’re the top results of qualifiers. There were ties, so 22 men are advancing to semis.

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Innsbruck 2013 Men's Qualifier ResultsScreen Shot 2013-05-17 at 10.40.41 AM


The Austrians have new uniforms–teal/green tops for the men, pink for the women. As this is home ground, they had the most competitors, for the men they had 9, with 4 going to semis.

Kili showing off the men's new teal uniforms.

Kili showing off the men’s new teal uniforms while flashing quali 1.

Interesting that Rustam Gelmanov was the only guy to flash every problem in his category. Maybe it’s his new haircut–a skullet with what appears to be a cross bleached into the middle of the back of it. I don’t think I have a good picture of it, but if you start the qualis live feed replay you’ll see it pretty much straight off as he stands in front of the camera before climbing problem 1. Maybe 10 minutes in?

In Category A, 4 men flashed everything. I watched Jan Hojer have a hard time on his problem 1, which was eventually cut anyways, but I guess he had a hard time throughout qualifiers. Still, he squeaked into semis, which is good enough. Out of the last six guys who made semis, 5 of them (all but Mauricio) have stood on the podium at a Bouldering World Cup. James Kassay of Australia, who was in finals (so top 6) at the last event in Log-Dragomer, is in 41st here, out of 69 male competitors. Just goes to show how hard these competitions can be. Conditions may have also played a part for at least some of these competitors.

Here are a couple of awesome moves I saw from the men. Sorry they are so small:

Innsbruck Bouldering World Cup heel hook

Underflag heel hook

Figure 4 heelhook with knee bar flag

Figure 4 heelhook with knee bar flag


Full Quali Results

Result: Qualification (A) M E N bouldering

Result: Qualification (B) M E N bouldering


Innsbruck 2013 Men’s General Results


Rewatch the Qualifiers Live Feed


Categories: 2013, Comps, World Cup
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