Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > IFSC Bouldering World Cup #7 – Vail – Men’s Qualifiers – Problem Run Down + Results

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #7 – Vail – Men’s Qualifiers – Problem Run Down + Results

Men’s Qualifiers

Jakob on Q3, Sean on Q4

Jakob on Q3, Sean on Q4

The men’s qualifier round looked good in that there was good problem variety and most competitors got up at least one problem. There may have been a big disparity in ability in the men’s field or perhaps whatever the tipping point was they balanced on it as well as possible with a field like this while still making fun, interesting problems that were not dependent on the quality of the hand and footholds.

The top 3 men did all the problems, with Thomas Caleyron and Sean McColl getting 5 tops in 7 tries. The next ten climbers did 4 of the problems, sending 1, 2, and 5 and either 3 or 4 (except Tsukuru and Daniel, who both did 1-4 and not 5). For many climbers it came down to problem 5–if they sent it (or sent it quickly) they’d be in, if not, they were out. Unfortunately for most (but fortunate for those they’d bump out) they were unable to figure out the technical vertical climb. Many fell also from the last move, not figuring out the King-Cobra-esque backstep that made it possible to match the finish.

Climbers 14 – 21 did 3 boulders, but unfortunately for #21, Italian Stefan Scarperi, he did them in 3 more tries than #20 and so he will not advance to semis. 22-32 did 2 problems, 34-44 did 1, and the last 4 guys didn’t finish any. Despite the many ties in the top of the field, the setters managed a pretty nice split of the field with enough people sending or having a chance to send to keep things exciting to the end. Below are short descriptions of each boulder.

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Men’s Quali 1

Short slab. Last move was a committing stand up on the volume. First go Sean McColl screwed up his beta but 2nd go he hiked it. Others, like Carlo, had a similar experience. Nearly everyone climbed this one.

Sean McColl going the wrong way first go. The correct method is out right first to bonus, then up left.

Sean McColl going the wrong way first go. The correct method is out right first to bonus, then up left.

Jan Hojer moving to the bonus hold correctly.

Jan Hojer moving to the bonus hold correctly.

Rustam Gelmanov taking the right way on Q1.

Rustam Gelmanov taking the right way on Q1.

Rustam at the top of Q1

Rustam at the top of Q1

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Men’s Quali 2

Start on blob. Up on volume to a sloper (Jakob’s right hand below). Stand up left to bonus.

Jakob Schubert on Q2

Jakob Schubert on Q2

Cross to white blob (Jan’s right hand, below). Jump left or backstep and extend to the white slope around the corner. Pop to finish on last volume. Paul Robinson heel hooked left for this move but it didn’t look like the best plan. He fell 1st go but it worked 2nd go and he finished.

Jan Hojer falling on the move out left. Many fell here at least once.

Jan Hojer falling on the move out left. Many fell here at least once.

Not much else to say on this one. Seemed very doable and was the 2nd most sent problem.

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Men’s Quali 3

Screen Shot 2013-06-07 at 9.22.51 PM

Amazing problem. 6 E-Grips Main Dish features, a volume, a blob, and another hold for the start. Does that look like a kneebar extravaganza? Does it?!

Sean McColl absolutely cruised this problem.

Sean McColl absolutely cruised this problem. Double upsidedown knees? NBD.

Kruder taking a hands-off kneebar rest before the big last move.

Kruder taking a hands-off kneebar rest before the big last move.

Jeremy Bonder really went all out on the kneebars.

Jeremy Bonder really went all out on the kneebars. The double knee seemed to be a much better fit for the shorter guys than the taller.

Kilian Fischhuber managed to get to the last hold and make the match.

Kilian Fischhuber was one of the few who managed to get to the last hold.

The last move on 3 looked very difficult and many climbers got there and were unable to stick the move.

Rustam Gelmanov oh so close

Rustam Gelmanov oh so close. So many others fell in this very same place.

Sean McColl and Paul Robinson flashed it easily. Daniel Woods flashed it as well, though without the 360 kneebar spin that Sean did and it looked a bit more strenuous though Daniel is so powerful that didn’t even seem to matter. Tsukuru Hori also flashed, though I didn’t see him climb it. Thomas Caleyron did it 2nd go, Kilian 3rd go. Only 2 other climbers finished problem 3–Jernej Kruder, who is currently tied for 8th, did it 2nd try. Masatoshi Sugitu also did it 2nd go, and he is in 16th.

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Men’s Quali 4

This one was less exciting to watch than 3, obviously, as 3 was one of the coolest comp problems ever.  This one was slopers up to two jibs on a volume, out right to slippery looking slopers, big move up around the arete, invisible last hold. Jorg Verhoeven was skipping the 2nd and 3rd hold, doing a big move straight up to the 4th hold (sloper waist height on Ian below).

Ian Dory on Q4

Ian Dory on Q4

This was the other least-done problem, with 12 ascents. The top guys down to 8 (except Kruder, who is tied for 8th but did problem 3 instead) all climbed it. Also, Rei Sugimoto, Dave Barrans, and Carlo, with Carlo sending 2nd go, Rei doing it 3rd go, and Dave doing it on his 5th try!

Ian Dory moving to the bonus hold on Q4

Ian Dory moving to the bonus hold on Q4

A better shot of the bonus hold and the other sloper. Modified bubble slope!

A better shot of the bonus hold and the other sloper. Modified bubble slope! You can see the next hold up around the corner as well.

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov sending Q4

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov sending Q4. The last hold was blue and nearly invisible in the USA Climbing logo.

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Men’s Quali 5

The make or break problem for so many competitors.

Daniel trying Q5. It was the only one he didn't do. Tsukuru Hori of Japan had the same experience.

Daniel trying Q5. It was the only one he didn’t do. Tsukuru Hori of Japan had the same experience.

Start on right volume. Up to a volume or just straight left on a blob to press into the bonus hold volume.

Klemen Becan pressing left into the bonus hold.

Klemen Becan pressing left into the bonus hold.

Lean left and stand up by laybacking bonus volume.

Klemen Becan laybacking on Q5

Klemen Becan laybacking on Q5

Back right, step on blob, blob for hand, stand up towards finish.

Sean McColl moving right to the finish.

Sean McColl moving right to the finish.

The last hold was bad and the move was balancy. The best method seemed to be a dropknee on volume and cross to finish hold without swinging off. First go Sean McColl jumped for the top and scrabbled to hang on but the hold just didn’t have enough to offer. He figured it out quickly enough, though most competitors did not.

Sean McColl finishing Q5

Sean McColl finishing Q5

Paul Robinson making sure he was scored for the top before dropping.

Paul Robinson making sure he was scored for the top before dropping.

Looks like Kruder went a different way to the top.

Looks like Kruder went a different way to the top.

So that was it. Great job to all the competitors, and proud work to the climbers of Team USA for putting in such solid efforts on all the boulders that the live feed commentator mentioned how strong everyone looked. Great job guys!

Results below.

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Athlete Interviews and the Pancake Party

Pre-World Cup training at The Spot

Pre-World Cup training at The Spot

When asked how he prepared for the last week before Vail, Kilian said:

I trained only once at The Spot in Boulder, otherwise rested.

Thanks for the shout-out Kilian!

I heard Melissa Le Neve give us a shout out as well during women’s qualis. Thanks Melissa!

It is really fun for us to have the World Cup climbers come in and use The Spot for their climbing day in the week before Vail. This year we even threw a pancake party where we made the very American breakfast [for dinner] of pancakes, bacon, strawberries, syrup, and whipped cream for all the competitors, physios, coaches, etc… who traveled to Boulder before the World Cup.

Pancake Party!

Pancake Party!

We’re looking forward to an even bigger pancake party next year so if you’re coming to compete in Vail plan to train and eat pancakes at The Spot!

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Rewatch Men’s Qualifiers

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Men’s Qualifier Results

IFSC Bouldering World Cup Vail 2013 Men's Qualifier ResultsScreen Shot 2013-06-07 at 8.45.59 PMScreen Shot 2013-06-07 at 8.46.12 PMScreen Shot 2013-06-07 at 8.46.30 PM

If you’re wondering why I copy these from the IFSC site and repost them here, it’s mostly because I think the IFSC site is difficult to navigate and make good links to, AND sometimes results disappear so it’s just easier to share them by copying them. Then they’ll be here. Here’s the link to IFSC’s results – Result: Qualification M E N bouldering

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Tomorrow is Semifinals and finals! I may watch semis from here and post, but I also may be in Vail by then. I also plan on Vail for finals so there will probably not be coverage here on that til Monday or so. Til then, here’s women’s qualifiers: Women’s Qualifiers Vail, and go to ifsc-climbing.org for a link to the live feed.

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Categories: 2013, Comps, World Cup

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