Home > 2013, Comps, World Cup > IFSC Bouldering World Cup #7 – Vail – Semifinal Problems and Results

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #7 – Vail – Semifinal Problems and Results

Anna Stöhr was already in finals (she may not have known) but she did this problem, her 2nd of finals, anyways to the joy of the crowd.

After sending the 2nd boulder Anna Stöhr was already in finals (she may not have known) but she after many tries did this problem (semi 4), her 2nd of finals, anyways to the joy of the crowd. The send kept her in 1st place.

4 problems for men, 4 for women, 20 climbers of each gender. Semifinals looked super hard, and the results agree.

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Semi 1

Women’s Semi 1

A slab, stand up off holds on volumes and work your way through some grey plates that looked usable from a distance but based on how the competitors did on them I’m thinking they were barely holds. Up into the corner to the top.

Slow and steady wins the race. Angie Payne making the first (and one of only 2 ascents) of Women's Semi 1.

Slow and steady wins the race. Angie Payne making the first (and one of only 2 ascents) of Women’s Semi 1.

Men’s Semi 1

Slab. Mantle left or right, stand up, balance left to the corner of the wall, stand up on a bad-looking jib and stab for a slot finish that many competitors bobbled.

Dave Barrans sending the challenging Men's 1.

Dave Barrans working out the bottom for his send of the challenging Men’s 1. On the right, Katha stares with what I imagine is dismay at those weird gray plates that bouted pretty much everyone.

Mauricio Huerta about to fall (he later finished) on Men's Semi 1

Mauricio Huerta about to fall (he later finished) on Men’s Semi 1

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Semi 2

Women’s 2

Steep, start in a corner, pinchtites out the roof. Barely anyone could even touch this one, though Alex Puccio fell from the last move. Anna Stöhr was the only send. Akiyo was the only other climber to even get bonus.

Angie Payne in the corner at the bottom of Women's Semi 3.

Angie Payne in the corner at the bottom of Women’s Semi 2.

Men’s 2

Double dyno to squeeze two huge blobs on a volume. Motorboat. Up left hand to a bonus. Get up on the blobs, press into corner, rock left to hold on left wall while holding tension. Step through to bad jib or high on bonus, cross to finish. This problem looked hard but saw a fair amount of ascents.

Motorboat.

Double dyno or press up and then jump match. Motorboat.

Stuck in the corner on Men's 2.

Stuck in the corner on Men’s 2.

Jernej Kruder did the high backstep for the end of this one. It worked.

Jernej Kruder did the high backstep for the end of this one. It worked.

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Semi 3

Women’s 3

Volumes. Steep. Punishing. No tops. It looked like if the last hold was 1 t-nut lower a few girls would have finished it. As it was, all who got there missed.

Katha on Women's Semi 3

Katha on Women’s Semi 3

Aya Onoe going for the last move.

Aya Onoe going for the last move.

Men’s 3

Undercling at base of roof. The better looking beta was left hand out to chip, move out right to other little holds on roof, left hand slap up to hold on volume, right to bonus (at Rei’s chest, below), match bonus, up above lip, jump left to finish. Most people went right hand first and tried to jump-cross to the sloper on top of the circle volume but it didn’t really work. Most people fell on this a lot. A few worked it out and got near the top or sent. Rei’s dropknee (below) was the most impressive move I saw on it.

Rei Sugimoto doing a huge dropknee. Nearly did this boulder but not quite, he fell on the last move. Crushed the bottom though!

Rei Sugimoto doing a huge dropknee. Nearly did this boulder but not quite, he fell on the last move. Crushed the bottom though!

Jorg Verhoeven making one of the few ascents of Men's Semi 3.

Jorg Verhoeven making one of the few ascents of Men’s Semi 3.

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Semi 4

Women’s 4

Back to the slab. This time women were in a corner. Start with a good foot. Jump double hands to a bubble wrap sloper. Mantle into a corner. Stand up. Most didn’t even do the dyno, though Canada’s Elise Sethna did it repeatedly but had trouble with the next part. Jule Wurm was the first send, Anna Stöhr the only other.

Melanie Sandoz jumping for it.

Melanie Sandoz jumping for it.

Some people tried to skip the dyno. It sort of worked for Leah and Akiyo, but not well enough for them to go on.

Some people tried to skip the dyno. It sort of worked for Leah and Akiyo, but not well enough for them to go on.

Jule rocking the mantle. Right hand is on bonus.

Jule rocking the mantle. Right hand is on bonus.

Anna standing into the corner for the top.

Anna standing into the corner for the top. Foot up right and press/jump.

Jule at the top.

Jule at the top.

Men’s 4

Slab. Balance. Lots of falls here. 7 people managed to finish this, including two who did not make finals. For others, not doing this is what kept them out of finals. Sean McColl was already in, but he finished this anyways.

Sean McColl finishing Men's Semi 4

Last climber out, Sean McColl, finishing Men’s Semi 4. To the left Anna Stöhr sizes up the women’s dyno.

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Female Finalists

 

For women Jule Wurm and Anna Stöhr had 2 sends, Angie Payne had one, and that was it. Akiyo got 3 bonus holds 1st go for 4th. Alex Puccio had 3 bonus in 7 goes for 5th. Shauna Coxsey had 2 bonuses 1st go each for 6th, and those are the female finalists. Nobody did problem 3.

Women Finalists

Semi Results. These top 6 are the Female Finalists.

Full Semi Results Women – provisional Result: 1/2 Final W O M E N bouldering

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Male Finalists

For the men, problems 1 and 2 got done several times, problem 3 got done 4 times, and problem 4 got done 7 times. Unfortunately out was Jernej Kruder who climbed very well but was 1 bonus hold behind Jorg Verhoeven.

Male Finalists

Semi Results. These top 6 are the Male Finalists.

Full Semi Results Men – provisional Result: 1/2 Final M E N bouldering

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Finals are tonight starting at 5pm!

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Categories: 2013, Comps, World Cup

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