Home > 2013, Comps, Psicocomp, Setters, Setting Update > Setting Update for 7/30 & 7/31 + Thanks Danny + Psicobloc!

Setting Update for 7/30 & 7/31 + Thanks Danny + Psicobloc!

New Left Dojo!!!

Yay reset!

Yay reset!

The team was a bit short this week as Ian and I are out of town for the OIA Tradeshow (see below), and Joel is at his hospital job doing orientation. Danny, Jake, Connor, and Lily held down the fort and gave the Left Dojo a nice new fill with several big holds in new places and volumes for your climbing enjoyment. Danny reports 24 new problems from 2+ to 5+.


Thanks Danny!

Speaking of Danny, we are both happy (for him) and sad (for us) to report that Danny has got himself a shiny new job. Instead of his multiple days of doubles at his two jobs, Danny will now be working as a customer service rep for Salewa USA. He’ll still be around to help us set comps throughout this upcoming SBS season (and hopefully next season as well!) but he won’t be setting regularly anymore. You will still see him around the gym, so feel free to tell him you miss his setting.



Ian Dory and I both came to the Outdoor Retailer Tradeshow in Salt Lake City. On my way into town on Tuesday I stopped off in Park City to check out the climbing wall for the Psicocomp Deep Water Soloing competition. Everything about the comp is sweet–the wall is super pretty and super tall and it hangs over the landing pool for the Olympic Training Center ski ariels jumps. I could go on and on about the training center, with the jumps, the trampolines, the luge…but really you should just google it. Having a 52′ climbing wall hanging over the landing pool made it look like the best big-kid summer camp destination ever.

The wall, and a skier.

The wall, a trampoline, and a skier.

I am hoping they will do this comp again every year, or maybe just install the wall on a permanent basis. I was lucky enough to get to forerun on Tuesday afternoon and it was one of the most fun experiences I’ve ever had.

Me trying out the wall  |  Chris Schulte photo

Me trying out the wall | Chris Schulte photo

It was really intimidating but Chris, who is injured and can’t climb but really wanted to, pointed out that this wasn’t your everyday opportunity. I got my old shoes out of the truck and, after gleaning beta on the holds (which all look slopey and terrible from underneath) from the other 3 forerunners (all boys) I braved up and gave it a go. 1st go I didn’t commit to a move just above where I am in the picture and I dropped off. It wasn’t too hard, but man, as soon as you began to remember that however high you climbed was how far you would fall it was easy to want to let go. I let my shoes dry out and went again, this time to the two white volumes above my head (about 1/2 way) before I dropped. From where I was it was jugs to the lip of the headwall, but after looking down I decided I didn’t want to go that high. To qualify myself, I’ve jumped off higher cliffs than the top of this wall, and I know they did test falls, but the 10′ deep pool just didn’t seem deep enough to me for that big of a jump. Obviously it was, but I had a blast even 1/2 way up and it was plenty high for me to want to try again next year. Maybe I’ll even go to the top, I mean, Lynn Hill did it…

Lynn Hill falling off the last move of the qualifier!  |  Brian Sweeney Nip9 photo

Lynn Hill falling off the last move of the qualifier! | Brian Sweeney Nip9 photo

Brave and inspiring much?

And obviously boys LIKE jumping off big things into water. Spot Setter and Coach Ian Dory is in the pro comp and he went out the next day with all the other competitors for practice and qualifiers. A bunch of people clawed their way over the top and took the jump. Here’re are two great pictures of Ian and Jon Cardwell jumping together.

Ian Dory and Jon Cardwell jumping from the top of the wall.

Ian Dory and Jon Cardwell jumping from the top of the wall.

Ian and Jon jumping  |  Matty Hong

Ian and Jon jumping | Matty Hong photo

Awesome? Yes.

If you’re not lucky enough to be in SLC you can watch the live feed from LT11.

If you are lucky enough to be in SLC you should go to the comp, and do the citizen’s comp Sat/Sun (either or both, not sure). Climbing on this wall was SO MUCH FUN!

Ok, so that’s all for now.  Here’s a link to the live feed – Psicobloc Masters Series on Livestream

Wish Ian luck!

  1. No comments yet.
  1. No trackbacks yet.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: