IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Finals Problems 1 & 2
Women’s Final 1
This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.
Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus
Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Melanie Sandoz – flash
Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish
Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint
Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…
After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.
Men’s Final 1
Sachi Amma – 0
Rei Sugimoto – 0
Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0
Rustam Gelmanov – 0
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0
Thomas Tauporn – 0
Women’s Final 2
The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.
Dinara – flash
Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.
Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.
Katha – eventual send
Alex – flash
Shauna – flash
Anna – flash
Men’s Final 2
Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.
Sachi – bonus
Rei – scroll down:
Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?
Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.
Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.
Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.
Rei is now in 3rd.