2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #5 – Toronto – Semi Results & Finals Live Feed
Semis started with some interesting competitor interviews including one of Anna Stöhr where she says that she ended up bouldering because when she started adult comps at age 16 the Austrian federation decided she was too young for the very stacked lead climbing team so they sent her to bouldering. She got silver in her first event and the rest is history. She also says that the Austrian team is so supportive that she feels it makes them stronger and have more fun, and she feels bad for people like Alex (Puccio) who have to do it all by themselves. Suddenly it cut out and the comp started.
There are SO MANY VOLUMES on the wall!
NOTE – I am currently adding some screenshots, so this page will be updated several times.
Here are some highlights for Team USA and a few others in semis:
Women’s involves coordination to catch two opposing holds at the bottom, then power moves to holds on volumes with an extremely tensiony match on the finish hold.
Men’s is volumes up a corner with a hard final move/stick/match.
Meagan got bonus
Rob got bonus
Ty Landman (UK) sailed through the bottom but the kneebar looked to be really tearing up his leg (he was wearing shorts) and after getting to bonus he moved around a lot but wasn’t able to get to the last hold.
Mike didn’t look very excited about the volumes but he got off the ground and worked up to bonus pretty comfortably. He jumped for the last hold but it is too slopey to stick without moving very slowly. He got up there again and climbed slower but couldn’t quite figure it out. Again. Not sure exactly how the move is supposed to work but some people are making it look easy and everyone else is suffering.
Claire Buhrfeind is also in the final and struggled with sticking the double deadpoint that makes up the 2nd move.
Canadian named Jason Holowach flashed and the crowd went crazy.
James Kassay flashed. He did the last move much like Mike was trying but he was able to reach. It was a very powerful, in control ascent.
Angie got bonus, then fell. Next go fell on the last move. Fell off bonus a couple times. Done.
Kruder got to the last move and fell trying to go left hand and much too fast. Fell some more. This problem is brutal.
No women have sent yet.
Nevermind, Akiyo Noguchi just sent!!! She was the 3rd girl to stick the last hold and the first to match it. Nice!
Anna Stöhr is falling on women’s 1–is trying to static instead of going both hands at once. Figures it out and does it. Powers up next part no big deal, falls after hitting final hold. Falls again on last hold. Doesn’t have enough time to send and stops. The commentators say she just moved too quickly.
Jule falls off the last move. Gets back up and sends!!! 2nd ascent of WS1.
Alex hikes to the top, hits last hold, looks to match and foot slips and she falls. Back up there no problem, gets high left foot, only girl to try that, looks great and she matches easily. Nice!
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet sends 2nd go.
Kilian doesn’t send.
Shauna Coxsey has won the last 2 World Cups. She flashes #1, barely getting the stick before falling.
Sean McColl hikes 1, using a slick left foot toehook to match the final hold.
Sol Sa, who is the top qualifier female, falls off first go. So does Rustam Gelmanov for the men. Both fall again. Again. Rustam is dynoing, making this way too hard, gets nowhere, not even bonus. Sol Sa same problem, but I think she gets bonus. No top.
Women’s was some contortion up a corner, men’s was straight power on small holds up an arete with a hard move to bonus and a harder move to the finish.
Meagan got bonus.
Rob got bonus and fell on the last move. Sent 4th go with a huge right hand drive-by cross to the finish.
Vasya made it to bonus after some goes but fell on the end trying the cross and didn’t finish the problem.
Ty also was falling off the last move, which is a huge right hand cross drive-by. After a few goes he stuck it.
A young Korean, Jongwon Chon, is destroying and flashed 1 and 2 easily.
Mike got bonus, fell on the last move. Fell going to bonus. Seems the bonus is greasy or you have to hit it perfectly. Got up again, went left in his signature deadman move to the last hold, hit it but didn’t stick.
James Kassay after a lot of work managed to send this.
Angie is having a hard time. I didn’t see her stick bonus. Nobody has sent this problem yet.
Girls are getting near the top but the last move is brutal. Vera Z fell there twice.
Akiyo falls after bonus. SENDS!!!! First FS2 send.
Anna falls hitting the last hold. Anna sends!!! Only the 2nd woman to do it. Nice.
Charlotte Durif falls off working into last volume before last move.
Killian gets up to the top and goes left hand like Mike tried, and stuck it! Send!
No send for Jule.
GG sends easily.
Alex falls off the last move.
Sean flashes to bonus, falls off last move trying the right hand drive-by. Falls off bottom. Falls off going to bonus. Finally gets back up, moves left to final like Killian.
Shauna falls out of 2nd to last hold. Falls again. Gets back up slowly and is the first person to static to the finish hold with both feet on.
Rustam tries the cross and falls. Next go times it better, sends.
Sol falls. Has bonus, at last move, crosses to finish hold! Crazy! Send.
Women’s involved a tricky corner and a long reach, then some powerful moves that most competitors didn’t even get to try. Men’s was a steep powerful roof with a cruxy headwall.
Rob got bonus and fell in the headwall.
Vasya got bonus and fell moving into the headwall.
Jongwon flashed to bonus but also fell moving onto the headwall volume.
Mike fell on the high volume coming out the roof. Tried a cool double pop dyno to the volume but didn’t stick. Figured it out and got bonus. Got the next volume on the headwall and fell matching it.
No male or female ascents of 3 yet.
James Kassay sent!!! Jan Hojer looks to be struggling on the difficult triangle volume match but he sends as well.
Kruder is past bonus, trying to get up on headwall and falling on 3.
Akiyo hikes, first send of FS3.
Anna doesn’t send.
Killian gets matched on the headwall, then falls without topping.
Alex is falling on 3. Gets up on arete, foot slip/fall.
GG gets bonus, falling moving into top volume. Again.
Sean McColl goes out backwards, which doesn’t seem to be working at all. Sean goes right way out, gets bonus, up to headwall triangle, matches, rocks left, 1 hand on top…match!!!!!!! This is his 3rd top and should put him in finals.
Shauna is struggling on 3. No top.
Rustam is on the headwall on men’s 4, rocks to finish, right foot toehook for stability, matches for the send.
Sol is not looking great on FS3, and it looks really hard. She presses out the roof but can’t get around the corner. No send.
Women’s was volumes up a corner and a roof. By sends it was the easiest of the women’s finals, and it looked hard.
Men’s was a weird one–competitors started by crawling up onto a huge volume under a roof, then leaning out and around to another volume, hiking feet up to bonus, then moving right on a dicey looking foot to a sidepull volume and then up to two slopey volumes that had to be compressed. Get up on those to the finish.
Rob got bonus, fell going for the top two opposing volumes.
Julija Kruder (Jernej’s sister) got the first top on FS4. It seemed a surprise to everyone, including here. Nice!
Vasya got bonus, kept fell on higher volumes.
Miho Nonaka (JPN) also did FS4.
Ty got bonus a bunch but couldn’t get out right to the next volume.
Jongwon Chon sent this!!! First ascent of the boulder in semis.
Petra Klingler sent this as well.
Mike got bonus but then got stuck. Rough round for him.
Jason Holowach didn’t do 2 or 3 but is doing well on all of ’em and on 4 fell going to left of top opposing volumes.
James has sent everything so far and gets bonus 1st go, then falls working up the next volumes. Falls again. No send.
Angie works into the first few volumes on 4, then falls.
Jan Hojer sends for his 4th go, he’s the first to do all 4 semis.
Akiyo hikes S4 for her 4th send. She sent ’em all!!!
Jeremy Bonder sends!
Anna is falling at the bottom. No send. Only 1 top in finals, and it was problem 2 which barely got done.
If Jule sends this she’ll be in finals with 2 tops. Not looking great. Gets up to last hold before last move. Tries to match it, falls. Done.
Kilian sends Men’s 4. 2 tops for him.
Puccio gets up into the corner and seems stuck. Again. Up into the corner and the first roof hold, still seems stuck. Does a shin-scum. Can’t move, falls out. 20 seconds, gets back on. Done. Gets interviewed just after, says the volumes on 4 aren’t very textured, so if your hands are sweaty (which hers were) it was really hard. She is in finals so she’s happy.
GG is having trouble figuring out how to get off the ground. You crawl up onto a big volume under a roof, then crawl out the side to a volume over the lip. He figures it out, lays off a heel-toe cam to get his other hand out, gets bonus, falls moving into compression volumes at top. Again. Done.
Shauna slips off the volumes just in roof. Gets up there again, looks much better. Send!!!
Sean looks amazing on this problem, climbs the bottom easily, through bonus, looks good as he statics to left of compression volumes, can’t press into it so jumps to grab both, falls. Gets up again, has both static, jumps to get higher on them and falls. Goes again…sends!!!
Sol is falling out of the corner.
Rustam is falling as well, then sends.
Kilian and Anna both in their interviews said that they made mistakes and you shouldn’t be able to make mistakes and make finals so it’s ok they are out of finals. Good attitudes as usual from the two Austrian champions.
Some Semi Results
Jan Hojer – 4 tops
Sean McColl – 4 tops
Jongwon Chon – 3 tops
Rustam Gelmanov – 3 tops
James Kassey – 3 tops
Guillluame Glairon Mondet – 2 tops in 3
Jeremy Bonder – 2 tops in 4
Kilian Fischhuber – 2 tops in 5
Jernej Kruder – 2 tops in 6
Rob D – 1 top
Ty Landman – 1 top
Vasya – 1 top
Mike O – no tops
Akiyo Noguchi – 4 tops! in 7, 4 bonus in 6
Shauna – 3 tops in 5, 3 bonus in 4
Miho Nonaka – 1 top in 1, 3 bonus in 3
Juliane Wurm – 1 top in 2, 3 bonus in 3
Alex Puccio – 1 top in 2, 3 bonus in 5
Julija Kruder – 1 top in 2, 2 bonus in 3
Anna Stöhr – 1 top
Angie Payne – 2 bonus in 3 (11th)
Meagan Martin – 2 bonus in 4 (13th)
Claire Buhrfeind – 1 bonus in 2 (18th)
Full Semis Results
Watch Finals – feed starts 2:45pm Boulder time!