Archive

Archive for the ‘Bouldering Championship’ Category

World Cup Round Ups for 2015 Season

August 26, 2015 Leave a comment

WC-RoundupCover-art

Well, sorry to say I didn’t manage to write anything about any of the IFSCWC Bouldering events this season. It was a short but quite exciting season, and I did watch all the comps and do podcast roundups with John Blomquist of Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast. If you are interested in our rambling about the events, check out the podcast here:

#1 Toronto

#2 Vail

#3 Haiyang

#4 Chonqing

#5 Munich (World Championship)

John and I will probably do this next season as well and we want to talk about what you want to hear about, so let us know at chalktalk@mantlepressmedia.com

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2015 #1 – Toronto + CWA Dyno Comp & Stuff…

June 1, 2015 Leave a comment

Angie Payne Toronto World Cup 2015

Toronto happened last weekend and my climbing hold company Kilter was proud to be the hold sponsor. I didn’t get to watch it on time (watched it later) so no full coverage here but my friend John over at Mantle Press Media and I had a conversation about the event for his podcast Chalk Talk. You can listen to it (and find other great podcasts with a variety of climbers and industry folks) on iTunes or over at his site http://www.mantlepressmedia.com. Listen to our conversation and rewatch semis and finals here:

WCRoundupEpisodeArt-300x300

2015 Toronto Round Up

I was busy with the Climbing Wall Association Conference and Setter Showdown at Earth Treks Golden all weekend. We threw a big after party for the CWA at The Spot on Saturday and had another crazy dyno comp with tons of holds from Enix, Element, Kingdom, Nicros, Kilter, UP, Enterprises, Rock Candy, and Metolius. We’re taking some of the dynos down to make some wall space and preserve the problems we had up before cramming so many holds on that wall but don’t worry, some will stay up.

The Setter Showdown was a setting competition in Golden where 24 setters from different gyms came to test themselves in 3 rounds. When the day was over each setter had set 3 problems–two individual and one coset–on pre-assigned walls with pre-assigned holds and pre-assigned grades. The judges, who were Louie Anderson, Mike Helt, and myself, had to watch the setters and give scores for how functional and creative the problems were and how technically adept the setters were. It was a long two days and fairly difficult to judge but everyone had a good time I think and lots of friendships were formed. There should be a video coming soon and I’ll post it.

That’s all for now, sorry there aren’t more photos. Scour Facebook and I’ll post more soon.

Innsbruck European Boulder Championships 2015 – Men’s Qualifiers

May 14, 2015 Leave a comment

European Championship Bouldering 2015 Innsbruck Austria Jan Hojer

YES! The World Cup Bouldering season has nearly started with the European Boulder Championships in Innsbruck. Unfortunately there is no live feed but Udo & co of Stuntwerk made a nice little video of men’s qualis which you should definitely watch as it just shows one man crushing each boulder. There were two heats so there are 10 boulders total.

Rustam Gelmanov sporting a killer mullet and short shorts as he destroys qualifiers.

Rustam Gelmanov sporting a killer mullet and short shorts as he destroys qualifiers.

The Russians Dmitrii and Rustam are looking crazy strong this year. They qualified in 4th and 5th so it’s gonna be interesting to watch semis and see what their weak points are (if any) and it’s gonna be interesting to see who can beat them. From men’s quali results it seems like Gui-Gui, Adam Ondra, and newcomer (to me at least) Michael Piccolruaz from Italy definitely have a chance.

Men’s Quali Results:

1. Gui-Gui tied with Ondra tied with Michael Piccolruaz

4. Dmitrii

5. Rustam tied with Jakob Schubert

3 way tie for 7th: Alban Levier (FRA, new to me), Roands Rugens (LAT – last year he did quite well in one event) and everyone’s hero Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

10. Dave Barrans (GBR)

11. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) is back and tied with strong young Domen Skofic from Slovenia

13. Two guys I’ve never heard of, Mickael Mawem from France and Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor from Poland.

15. More newcomers to me, Stephane Hanssens from Belgium and Gregor Vezonik from Slovenia

17. Jan Hojer and Martin Stranik (CZE)

19. Mathias Conrad (GER) and Stefan Scarperi (ITA)

Don’t think they get through to semis but two of my personal favorites, Jernej Kruder and Anthony Gullsten, tied for 21st in qualis.

Also out: Jeremy Bonder in 23rd, Nicky De Leeuw (NED) in 31st tied with Lukas Ennemoser (AUT), Benjamin Blaser (SUI) in 33rd, David Firnenburg (GBR) in 40th, Klemen Becan’s little brother Jure Becan (SLO) tied for 41st with Gabri Moroni (ITA), young Brit Nathan Phillips in 47th tied with Elias Weiler (AUT), and Emiliyan Kolevski (BUL) tied for 69th with 3 other guys. That’s everyone I know on the list but there were 86 competitors total, some from countries rarely seen on the WC Circuit, so this could be a very fresh season if they keep competing.

Full Men’s General Results

%d bloggers like this: