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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2015 #1 – Toronto + CWA Dyno Comp & Stuff…

June 1, 2015 Leave a comment

Angie Payne Toronto World Cup 2015

Toronto happened last weekend and my climbing hold company Kilter was proud to be the hold sponsor. I didn’t get to watch it on time (watched it later) so no full coverage here but my friend John over at Mantle Press Media and I had a conversation about the event for his podcast Chalk Talk. You can listen to it (and find other great podcasts with a variety of climbers and industry folks) on iTunes or over at his site http://www.mantlepressmedia.com. Listen to our conversation and rewatch semis and finals here:

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2015 Toronto Round Up

I was busy with the Climbing Wall Association Conference and Setter Showdown at Earth Treks Golden all weekend. We threw a big after party for the CWA at The Spot on Saturday and had another crazy dyno comp with tons of holds from Enix, Element, Kingdom, Nicros, Kilter, UP, Enterprises, Rock Candy, and Metolius. We’re taking some of the dynos down to make some wall space and preserve the problems we had up before cramming so many holds on that wall but don’t worry, some will stay up.

The Setter Showdown was a setting competition in Golden where 24 setters from different gyms came to test themselves in 3 rounds. When the day was over each setter had set 3 problems–two individual and one coset–on pre-assigned walls with pre-assigned holds and pre-assigned grades. The judges, who were Louie Anderson, Mike Helt, and myself, had to watch the setters and give scores for how functional and creative the problems were and how technically adept the setters were. It was a long two days and fairly difficult to judge but everyone had a good time I think and lots of friendships were formed. There should be a video coming soon and I’ll post it.

That’s all for now, sorry there aren’t more photos. Scour Facebook and I’ll post more soon.

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CWA Dyno Comp 2014 + Mini Hold Reviews

June 27, 2014 3 comments

 

So Ill Dyno Holds

So Ill Dyno Holds

This post is from May but I forgot to post it so here it is now!

For the 2014 Climbing Wall Association after party we had climbing, a food truck, beer, an Urban Plastix and Kilter hold showcase, and a dyno comp! The dyno comp had two formats–team and individual. For the team competition, everyone from the same gym or company sent as many prelim dynos as they could (there were 26 to choose from) and we added up the total scores. The highest scoring individual dyno-ers were taken to an individual finals on the Beach where we’d set up stations for all the CWA exhibiting hold companies. Here are some pictures of the holds we used from each company:

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So Ill

So Ill

So Ill

So Ill was the title sponsor of this year’s CWA and they hooked it up with a huge baby head, a logo hold, a giant positive pinch that we can’t wait to use on the dojo, and the double fat smooth edges. We also got one of their newest Jason Kehl holds at the show and used it as a launch hold (it’s the one that looks like an octopus, above). I have to admit, I was skeptical about the Baby Supreme, but it ended up being a really cool hold. Ian Powell set a jump where you hit the logo hold as a gaston and kicked the baby head to stay on. Unfortunately some of the tallest competitors were able to semi-static the dyno, doing a deadpoint to the gaston and a very tensiony stand match. The other So Ill dyno was a jump to the large pinch, and it was really fun and several competitors stuck it.

Check out the So Ill holds: Baby Supreme    Vaccine (the big pinch, every gym needs two of these)   Pharmaceutical (logo hold – very cool, now on the river wall)  Nausea (double edges, my favorites from this batch, very fun holds, now on the river) I don’t have a link to the octopus yet as it’s brand new.

As usual So Ill is producing quality shapes and their big shapes are super fun to climb on. There are several other newer holds and sets in their lineup that we have our eye on for the future. Keep innovating guys!

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Kingdom

Kingdom Holds

Big pink and big (darker) green are Kingdom Holds

Kingdom is a fairly new company and we’d never seen anything from them in person before, but we were impressed. They sent us several Dragon Balls and several Love Handles, as well as some green feet from the Cobbles set.

Kingdom Dragon Balls

Kingdom Dragon Balls

The Dragon Balls are these big lumpy things with dual-tex bases. The huge one is HEAVY, and we used it to set the most popular dyno of the evening–a jump off two smaller cobbles to try and hang it as a stalactite. It’s was hanging straight down from the middle of the Beach bulge and the deskies told me they loved watching people try to stick it. Nobody managed to hang it during the finals, but right afterwards several of the finalists stuck it. We also set other Dragon Ball catches off the same launch holds that weren’t super far but were quite challenging to stick.

Overall the Dragon Balls have been extremely popular with our customers. They’re cool shapes and the fact that they’re bright pink certainly helps as well.

The Love Handles are also super fun to climb on. For the comp we had a double-dyno to squeeze two of them on the Dojo roof and another Dyno to catch the big one on the Left Dojo. We moved them to the River where you have one of the biggest as a drop-down on the Left River and one you slap into and mantle on mid-Right-River. The Left River one we had to flip over from its original position as it has kind of a thin wall for how huge it is and it wouldn’t stop flexing (and we can’t use screws so we couldn’t reinforce it that way). The Right River one is the end of one of my favorite things I’ve set in a long time, and Lily’s brown problem on it is also awesome.

The weird thing about the holds is that they are imperfect. The shapes are far from symmetrical and sometimes, especially with the Dragon Balls, it doesn’t really feel like they did it on purpose because the shapes are a bit atypical. There were mold scars on a couple of holds. Despite these things that we picky setters noticed, the holds are fantastic to set with, they climb really well, and  our customers love them. Overall we are very psyched and impressed with the new Kingdom holds and definitely recommend everyone get some.

Kingdom Climbing Holds

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Element

These guys really went above and beyond for this event. They created custom light-up holds and then came in to set up the dynos and wire them themselves.

Stan from Element setting up the glowing holds for the CWA Dyno Comp.

Stan from Element setting up the glowing holds for the CWA Dyno Comp.

Thanks for all the help guys!

The holds they used were several from the Spawn series–The Spawn Mega Ledge was the highest catch and nobody even got close. Two of the Spawn Incuts were the next down, but they were easier to catch than the slightly lower Spawn Pinches. The launch holds was the third Spawn incut and there were some smaller Spawn Slopers for feet.

Screen Shot 2014-06-27 at 2.35.30 PM

The lights looked great and we’re definitely talking about using them again for this year’s Psychedelia. The holds are really fun to climb on and the sandstone texture works surprisingly well. Now the holds are on a popular white-taped 4 spot on the Left River. The Spawn set comes highly recommended from us at The Spot, and we can’t wait to get the rest of the set!

Here’s a Facebook video of someone dynoing on the lit-up Element Dynos.

See more from Element Climbing Holds

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Rock Candy

We were thrilled to get several of the Blockus pinches from Rock Candy. These are big, blocky, comfortable, fun pinches that we’ve had our eye on for a long time. Kevin used them to set some good & challenging straight up dynos at the comp. The fattest pinch (bottom of the photo) was really hard to stick!

Rock Candy Blockus pinches

Rock Candy Blockus pinches

We got the Blockus Feature and the Blockus 3xL. We also got the excellent Blockus smalls (5 little pinches to match) that we used as feet for this event but will be hands from here on out. They sent some cool Rock Candy Logo Tape, a nice printed white gaffer’s tape, to tape the dynos with as well.

Now that we reset the Beach we’ve spread the holds around. Two of the big ones are in the middle face of the Hueco right now on Ian Dory’s excellent purple 4 spot. Overall this set is really cool and I think it will always be up on one of our walls cause as soon as they’re clean someone puts them on a problem. I should say that we don’t have much Rock Candy but everything I’ve seen from them lately is quite impressive and I’m looking forward to ordering from them when I can. They’re poured at Aragon so the material is right for us, I saw most of their line recently at the Boulder Rock Club and they looked great, and Brent Ng (their head setter) said his team really likes them. Check out their line here: Rock Candy Holds

Thanks for participating RC!

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Enterprises

Enterprises is known for their walls, but they have completely reworked their hold line this year as well. We saw some incredible huge volumes at the CWA show and the jugs and feet they sent us for the Dyno comp are nice shapes, plus they have a big edge radius so they are comfortable and fun to grab.

Enterprises holds!

Enterprises holds!

I set all the Enterprises dynos on the right side of the Beach and the jump to the bottom big hold in the picture above (The Portaledge) provided some of the most exciting moments of the night. The two Beast holds (top two in the photo) made a nice double catch, and the giant Phat Lip was the launch. The Micro Jugs set they sent us to use as feet were great as well, though we did break one. The material is a urethane, not elastomeric like Aragon but similar to the other urethanes out there that aren’t elastomerics (Habit, et al).

The Phat Lip is still on the right Beach only now it’s an undercling and is the start to several problems including Joel’s 3-ending journey across the wall. The others are being moved elsewhere for our next sets. We can’t wait to get ’em on the Dojo!

There are some really cool shapes in their new line and I’m glad to see them taking the time and spending the money to make their holds a force again. See ’em all: Enterprises Handholds

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Holdtopia

Holdtopia holds

Holdtopia holds

Holdtopia sent us some really cool features. The blue hold is the Bakudan from Godhand, and it a unique and very interesting hold. Here’s another angle of a white one:

panicball_bakudan-400x570

 

The feature is a big dish, but there are also some balls you can grab at the top. I originally envisioned it as a catch hold, but Jake ended up using it as the start for several dynos on the right Beach. You had to hold the top and balance into the dish and then jump out of it. The hardest dyno was a straight-up to match both hands on the purple feature. There was also a left jumping and a big step-across right jumping dyno from this hold, both to one of those big green pinches. The green jugs are the Cheeta Alba Jug L1 and other Cheeta Alba jugs and were used a launch hands for the sideways dynos. The catch pinches are the Cheeta Kaly Swell MEGA set which were also used in one of the World Cups this season.

Holdtopia also gave us a few Godhand Tengu screw-ons but we weren’t able to use them for feet for the comp as we don’t put screw-ons on our walls. They are awesome shapes but the European material doesn’t flex like elastomerics and so they would crack if tightened onto an uneven surface. We’re saving them to use on our wood volumes!

Originally instead of the purple feature we had a large purple HRT Dino Spine hold that is really cool but unfortunately got damaged in shipping so Alfred of Holdtopia gave us the other purple hold instead for the comp. The new purple hold is an Expression hold and I couldn’t find a link to it on the site. Right now you can see it on the front Font–several problems climb through it and there is a great dyno to it as well.

Holdtopia is importing many large European brands and it’s cool to see this kind of variety in the US market now. Our favorites so far are the Godhand line. Check ’em out!

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Volx

Volx holds

Volx holds

Volx is a French company that is now being imported into the US by MadRock. We got a big screw-on hold, the Giga Guru, that we had to build a base for (1″ thick plywood plate cut to match the bottom of the hold, we bolt it to the wall and screw the volume onto it). The other two are pinches from the V-Pure 2.0 Euphoria set with simple single-bolt attachment points. All are comfortable and have a fine texture that is different from most holds on the American market. The volume has a weird dimple in the back of it that is about two-fingers big and feels machined to be perfectly round. It’s a bit strange but it works, and the hold overall is quite fun to use. I’m excited to see what else they come out with.

I can’t find a link to the Volx USA site but if you get in touch with Madrock I imagine they will sort you out: Mad Rock Climbing. To see the holds: Volx Climbing

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E-Grips

E-Grips gave us two of their newest jug, the Giant Caterpillar. They are pretty neat, shallower than I expected but fun to set with. The jug part has several divot areas to use so it’s more complicated than it looks from the front. For the comp we did a 1-2 dyno off them using another e-Grips hold as the finish. Many competitors said they had never seen a dyno like that before. Now both holds are set as facing gastons on Joel’s across-the-Beach journey route that starts on the Enterprises Phat Lip as noted above. We’ve always been big e-Grips fans, and we bet you are too. See their site: e-grips holds

E-Grips new caterpillar jugs.

E-Grips new caterpillar jugs.

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So that’s it. Thanks to everyone who participated in the CWA Dyno Comp and thanks to the companies who sent holds. The party was a blast and our customers and members were psyched to have brand new dynos to play with. See you next year!

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