Archive

Archive for the ‘ABS Nationals’ Category

ABS Nationals 2014! Finals Wrap-Up and Results UPDATED

February 23, 2014 2 comments
Michael O'Rourke

Michael O’Rourke on Men’s Semi 3

There is a lot that can be said about this exciting ABS Nationals, but if you have the internet you’ve probably seen or read most of it already. For those who don’t want to do the digging and don’t have time to watch the replays, I’ve offered some thoughts on finals below.

Megan Mascarenas nearly finished Women's Final 4  |  Keith North

Megan Mascarenas nearly finished Women’s Final 4 | Keith North

~

Women’s Finals

For the viewer (at least at home) the women’s finals were far less exciting than the men’s. One reason might be that the male climber seemed to take precedence on the live feed, so the opinion of those of us watching at home may be biased because of that. I hate to be too critical as I know how hard it is to set for these types of events and also as I usually prefer to set and climb a more technical type boulder (as these were), but the consensus among those I’ve talked with is that the women’s finals just didn’t seem as cool as the men’s. They did succeed in getting the job done though, with a clean separation of the field in final scores.

UPDATE – According to competitors the first two women’s finals were actually super fun to climb on. Apologies for assuming they weren’t as cool when really they just didn’t look as good via feed.

UPDATE for clarification – 7 women went to finals because Jule Wurm is German, not American, and they needed six American females in finals. Jule is a talented World Cup climber that you’ve probably heard of by now if you read our World Cup recaps every season.

Final 1 was a pretty basic sequence that seemed a bit more committing for the shorter competitors and involved a mantle/rock-over and then some crimps/edges up a face. Half the field bungled the mantle and fell at least once, but the top didn’t seem too hard (except when Alex Puccio tried to dyno for the last hold first go and missed). Puccio ended up crimping on the side of the volume when she got out of sequence and using that volume edge crimp to do the last move.

Jule Wurm flashing WF1

Jule Wurm flashing WF1. Alex Puccio crimped the bottom left corner of that high blue triangle.

Women’s Final 2 looked the least pleasant of the bunch, as the holds were uninspiring to look at and none of the competitors seemed to be enjoying the climb. The bottom was tensiony on smaller holds, then there was a scrunchy press left on some sloper things, then a “triple-bump” that knocked Alex Johnson off, that Angie Payne managed, that Alex Puccio housed, and that Jule skipped (by standing tall from the 2nd hold to the top of the finish hold). The taller girls as a whole looked miserable on this problem, and I’m not sure how tall Grace is but she, Jule, Angie, and Puccio did it whereas Megan, Margo, and Alex Johnson did not.

Angie sticking the third bump.

Angie sticking the third bump. WF2.

Women’s Final 3 was far more interesting and involved a mantle onto a big volume, then a jump to a main dish with an overhead press on another main dish to stabilize. The setters added a hold to help with the jump and it probably made it possible but it also left some of the competitors stranded in the splits. Puccio, Angie, and Grace didn’t manage to get out of it, but the rest of the competitors sent. This time it seemed the taller competitors had the advantage.

Alex Puccio kinda stuck.

Alex Puccio kinda stuck.

Jule managed to jump out of the splits and into the overhead press.

Jule managed to jump out of the splits and into the overhead press.

Margo with the old head-press-rest.

Margo with the old head-press-rest.

Alex Johnson flashed.

Alex Johnson flashed.

Women’s Final 4 was the showpiece of the bunch with a dyno out the roof that neither Alex Johnson nor Angie managed to stick, though both were painfully close. Margo and Grace stuck it and got up to the powerful undercling match under the lip of the roof, and Margo got her hands above the roof before falling. Margo did some great route style resting and then used a kneebar/twist to get through the first few roof moves. You can tell the girl has climbed at Hueco. I’m so proud. Anyways, at the lip Megan went up with her wrong hand first, but instead of matching as Margo did (she tried but then abandoned the idea), Megan downclimbed to the undercling match, then went up with her correct (right) hand. Megan then proceeded to do two more unlikely looking moves, only to fall off the last move of the boulder! The endurance and power she showed were impressive to say the least, and it’s clear she could have sent if she hadn’t made an energy-sapping mistake. Jule Wurm also climbed to the top of the problem, only to fall going for the finish. That left Alex Puccio who, true to form, stuck the dyno 2nd (or 3rd?) go, then pretty much hiked her way to the top, doing the powerful last move like it was nothing and showing why she is still the American Champion.

Margo copping a rest.

Margo copping a rest.

Jule mid-problem.

Jule mid-problem.

Megan Mascarenas so very close.

Megan Mascarenas so very close.

Alex Puccio doing the last move on the giant baby heads.

Alex Puccio doing the last move on the giant baby heads.

The way the scores work, tops are given the most weight, then points, then flashes/attempts. Jule Wurm and Alex Puccio both climbed 3 boulders, but on the boulder Jule didn’t send, Final 4, she got to the last move, literally touched the last hold, so she got 16 points. On the problem Alex didn’t do she got stuck in the splits early on and so only got 3 points for it. Therefore, Jule is first in this comp and won but Alex Puccio is still considered the American Bouldering Champion.

~

Women’s Final Results

1. Jule Wurm

2. Alex Puccio (US National Champion)

3. Megan Mascarenas

4. Margo Hayes

5. Grace McKeehan

6. Alex Johnson

7. Angie Payne

~

Men’s Finals

The short of it is, Daniel Woods dominated the men’s category with sends of all four boulders, and close on his heels were Vasya Vorotnikov, who made an incredibly exciting send of Men’s Final 2, and a young man named Andy Lamb who came out of nowhere to impress everybody on his way to a third place finish. Michael O’Rourke, climbing in his first ABS Open Nationals final, also gave an impressive showing and though he missed the corner press beta on Men’s Final 1, he was the only competitor besides Daniel to stick a powerful pinch move on Men’s Final 4. Paul Robinson surprised himself by making finals, as he’s been primarily climbing outdoors of late, and he climbed well with a flash of the first problem and a near-send of the third. Finally Jon Cardwell looked strong as always but seemed a bit stymied by reach on all the problems, for example, on Final 1 there was a corner press that he simply couldn’t reach, on Final 2 he was very extended for already extended jumps, on Final 3 he had trouble reaching the final hold with his body in a stable position, and on Final 4 the jump to the pinch was huge, though he nearly made it and had a handful of the hold a couple of times. All in all a good effort from all the men and very exciting viewing.

Paul Robinson styling the corner press on F1.

Paul Robinson styling the corner press on F1.

Jon can't quite reach the good spot. F1.

Jon can’t quite reach the good spot. F1.

Michael O'Rourke eyeing up the bad pinch on Men's Final 2.

Michael O’Rourke eyeing up the bad pinch on Men’s Final 2. He got to the top of the boulder but tried a rose move for the finish and missed the final hold. Below, Vasya shows how it was supposed to be done.

Vasya doing the cross under finish move.

Vasya doing the cross under finish move on F2. Daniel did it this way and sent as well.

The mysterious Andy Lamb atop Men's Final 3.

The mysterious Andy Lamb atop the balancy Men’s Final 3.

Bad shot but it shows how big this move was. Daniel sticking it.

Bad shot but it shows how big this move on F4 was. Daniel sticking it.

Daniel two moves from the top. He did it 2nd go.

Daniel two moves from the top. He fell here first try and finished it 2nd go.

Men’s Final Results

1. Daniel Woods

2. Vasya Vorotnikov

3. Andy Lamb

4. Michael O’Rourke

5. Paul Robinson

6. Jon Cardwell

~

Podiums

Jule Wurm (1st) Alex Puccio (2nd) Megan Mascarenas (3rd)

Jule Wurm (1st) Alex Puccio (2nd) Megan Mascarenas (3rd)

Men's Podium ABS 15 Nationals 2014

Men’s Podium ABS 15 Nationals 2014. Daniel Woods (1st) Vasya Vorotnikov (2nd) Andy Lamb (3rd)

Final Results

Final Results

~

Want to see for yourself?

ABS 14 Youth National Championships – Finals Results

March 6, 2013 1 comment

If you’ve been following the blog you know that we had our first ever youth finalists in an ABS Nationals, Team Captain Tika Anderson (Female Junior – 18/19) and Comp Team Athlete Emily Herdic (Female Youth D – under 11). We also had Comp Team Athlete Kyle Fridberg in Qualifiers, and he ended up in 19th overall.

Tika was 9th in Qualifiers and 7th in Semis, meaning she spent most of the comp in the top 10 and went into finals in a good place. Because of byes given to National and Continental Champions (meaning they don’t “count” in the number of competitors taken forward) her category took more climbers through each round than the other categories, and there were 14 girls competing in finals. Coach Shannon tells me that Tika climbed well. She fell from the last move of problem 2, and on problem 3 there was a press into a corner followed by a dyno, and Tika wasn’t quite able to get up into the corner well enough to jump, but after the jump it looked very doable. Unfortunately she didn’t get through and ended up in 13th overall. We are extremely proud of her, this is her best National placing ever, and she represented The Spot well through the rounds. She is young for the category and has another year of Junior Nationals still before she ages into adults. Great job Tika on all your hard work and in climbing well throughout the comp!!!

Emily was 6th in Qualifiers and 3rd in Semifinals, so she also was in a very good position throughout the comp. Her category took 10 girls to finals. In the end Emily took 9th. The coaches who were present at Nationals told me that Emily climbed well through the competition but was tired the last day and not feeling her best. She still gave a phenomenal effort and we are extremely proud of her for making finals, especially since it’s only her first season of competition!!! Great job Emily!!!

We are super proud of our Spot Team Competitors in representing The Spot so well at ABS 14 Youth Nationals, and after some outdoor climbing this spring and summer we are looking forward to next season.

Come to our Team’s Bake Sale on Friday, March 15th, and help support the Spring Break trip to Joe’s Valley while enjoying delicious homemade cookies, brownies,and more. Check it out on Facebook here – Bake Sale at the Spot 3/15 4pm!

Great job Team!!!

Categories: 2013, ABS Nationals, Comps

ABS 14 Youth Nationals – Semifinal Results + Finals Running Orders

March 2, 2013 Leave a comment

We are incredibly proud that both Team Captain Tika Anderson and Comp Team Athlete Emily Herdic made it through Semifinals and into Finals!!!

~

Tika qualified in 7th place!

F JR Semis Results – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/FJR%20SF%20results.pdf

~

Emily qualified in 3rd place!

F YD Semis Results – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/FYD%20SF%20results.pdf

~

The girls will be competing in finals tomorrow. If you can get down to Colorado Springs to support them take your Spot gear and go! Here are the finals running orders:

Tika Finals Running Order – Female Junior  – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/MJR-FJR%20F%20Start%20List.pdf (scroll down)

Emily Finals Running Order – Female D – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/MYB-FYD%20F%20Start%20List.pdf (scroll down)

More Info – ABS Nationals Homepage

Hope to see everyone tomorrow in Colorado Springs!!!

Categories: 2013, ABS Nationals, Comps

ABS Youth Nationals 2013 Qualifier Results – 2 Spot Team Members Advance!

March 2, 2013 Leave a comment

We are so proud of Spot Team Captain Tika Anderson and Comp Team Members Kyle Fridberg and Emily Herdic for competing in the ABS 14 Youth National Championships yesterday.

Tika Anderson – You will remember seeing Tika in several SBS finals this season. She is the Regional and Divisional Champion this year in Junior Girls and so far at Nationals she has climbed really well and is 9th after qualifiers with two flashes and 38 points.

Great job Tika!!!

Girl’s Junior Quali Results – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/FJR%20Q%20results.pdf

~

Kyle Fridberg – Kyle has had some unfortunate comp experiences–last year he broke his leg at Divisionals in Arizona, and this year in the week leading up to Nationals he tweaked his knee at school (turned out to be ok, phew), then got sick with a fever. He was still sick at Nationals but climbed well, ending up in 19th place overall with 1 flash and 43 points. 19th in the country!

Great job Kyle!!!

Boy’s B Quali Results – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/MYC%20Q%20results.pdf

~

Emily Herdic – Emily flashed one problem and finished another 2nd go (the most anyone in her category topped) and got 50 points in 10 tries for 6th place after qualifiers. She is competing in semifinals today as well.

Great job Emily!!!

Girl’s D Quali Results – ‎www.absnationals.org/08/news/FYD%20Q%20results.pdf

~

Semifinals are today in Colorado Springs.

‎Female Junior Semis Running Order

Male B/Female D Semis Running Order

~

We’ll keep you posted.

Climb Strong Spot Team!!!

Categories: 2013, ABS Nationals, Comps

ABS Nationals Highlights Videos

February 26, 2013 Leave a comment

IAN DORY ROCKS!

February 26, 2013 1 comment
Ian

Ian crushing on Men’s Final 4

We are still really excited for our setter Ian Dory and his 2nd place finish (1 point from first!) at ABS Nationals last weekend.

Ian

Ian nearly finishing Men’s Final 2. Just as he went to match his heel slipped off!

Great job Ian!!!

ABS 14 Nationals – Media Links

February 24, 2013 1 comment

Here are some links to our coverage and other photos and such from the event. Some are in Facebook but I imagine you’ll be able to see them if you have a Facebook because they are photogs pages.

All results and info – ABS Nationals Homepage

Puccio

Puccio by Huey Photography (link below)

Cool Photos – Huey Photography – Open Bouldering Nationals 2013 – a selection from Qualis, Semis, Finals

Daniel on Men's Final 1

Daniel on Men’s Final 1 (link to album below)

More Cool Photos – Page Kuepper Photography – ABS NATIONALS FINALS

ABS 14 Open Nationals – Quali Results | The Spot Route Setting Blog

ABS 14 Nationals Final Rundown – Women | The Spot Route Setting Blog

ABS 14 National Championship Final Results!!! | The Spot Route Setting Blog

Live feed and reruns – TV | Louder Than 11

ABS 14 Nationals Final Rundown – Women

February 24, 2013 1 comment

Women’s 1

Faus on WF1

Faus on the 2nd crux of WF1. Her left hand is on hold 5, 8 points I guess? From here she stood up to the next hold, bumped up or matched it, rt foot where rt hand is, balance out right to bad finish jib, switch feet, foot jib out right, match finish jib. Andrea used the same sequence but pressed this move off a heel and was moving super slowly the whole time. It was a pretty awesome display of raw determination.

Women’s finals started out in an interesting manner when several of the favorites failed to complete the technical and balancey Final 1. Honestly the problem looked a bit easier if you were shorter, but different methods were discovered by different competitors and it’s hard to say what the problem actually felt like. I’d say Isabelle Faus climbed it the easiest, Andrea Szekely climbed it the slowest, and Angie Payne made the most unlikely finish match. Megan Mascarenas looked to be cruising until she got to the 5th hold or so (which from the results I guess was worth 8 points?), at which point she stopped and stood for a short while trying to figure out how to go up. Finally she made a wild jump, fell, and then fell on the bottom a bunch. AJ and Lisa Chulich tried a few things to get through the bottom but none of them worked and both got 4 pts for the problem.

Andrea

Several competitors tried this method. Andrea looked the closest to making it somehow work, but it definitely would have been pretty crazy to pull it off.

Ang

Angie managed the finish match in this extremely balancy way after falling from the move the go before.

~

Women’s 2

Faus

Faus working out the bottom of WF2. Looks like a lot of blank volumes from here. Sorry for the poor pic quality. Iphone…

Women’s 2 was a pretty steep, powerful, strange-beta looking rig out the steepest roof on a bunch of volumes.

Faus got out a ways before getting stuck going for the hold on the big volume under the lip.

AJ came on with some real power and experience and fell jumping out left to a big volume under the lip.

AJ sticking the jump

AJ sticking the jump. First go she jumped straight out left to the side of the left volume but she fell from the swing. This time she stuck this, toe hooked, turned, etc…

…after her major crowd-pleaser moves of spinning around backwards, leg over head, she powered up onto the headwall, sticking and matching the next volume, then fell grabbing the last volume before the finish.

Alex Johnson

AJ pulling a delicate looking hand/heel hold exchange.

AJ

AJ sticking the first slopey volume over the lip.

AJ

AJ matched the volume, flipped her low hand, then fell moving up left to the next volume with a jib on it. So close!

AJ off

AJ off. It was an awesome display, but unfortunately she didn’t finish the problem.

Lisa Chulich

Lisa Chulich is a very powerful climber. She tried the heel from this side but it didn’t quite work out.

AJ

Sorry it’s so blurry. Andrea actually staticed to the slopey bottom of this hold, stuck it, bumped to the good part, then fell. Her body tension is insane right now.

So then unfortunately I wasn’t feeling very well and I had to go lie down for a while. I know, I know, I drove all the way down to Nationals and I got a migraine. I took some migraine pills, had a short nap in the van, and came back in to catch the end of problem 3 and all of problem 4. Sorry I can’t report fully on the rest of 2 but from the results, AJ’s highpoint was hold 13, Angie’s was hold 12 (so I’m assuming the grabbed the headwall volume with one hand but didn’t match), Megan was hold 16 and Puccio’s was hold 18 on try 1, so a flash. I’m not sure the intended sequence, maybe they were all scored as matches so the next volume up from where AJ was would have been 14/15, and the end hold 16/17? But that doesn’t make sense for Puccio getting 18 points, so clearly I missed something in there. Maybe there was a hold on the right side of the last volume or something that was hold 16. The live feed will tell all…

~

Women’s 3

Again, sadly I missed most of this one and the pictures I did get are worse than the ones above, if you can believe that. The problem was another technical boulder and was worth 13 points. Faus, Megan, and AJ flashed it. Andrea did it 2nd try and Puccio did it 3rd try. Lisa got hold 7 on her first try, Angie got hold 8 on her 3rd try.

~

Women’s 4

AJ

AJ on her tremendous flash burn.

I’m glad I made it back in for this, as to me it looked like the most exciting problem of the night. Power moves out an overhang on some Myorcan tufa slopers and then some volumes on the headwall. Again AJ came out and nearly flashed, fading 2 moves from the top and then not being able to finish it.

Basically from where AJ is (hold 9) it was a cross to another sloper on the left side of the volume, then a thrutch to the top.

Angie Payne

Angie Payne on the first volume hold. Next it’s out right to where AJ is in the picture above. On the left is Daniel Woods executing a good toehook on the Men’s Final 4.

Puccio did Final 4 3rd go for the full 13 points. She’d already won, but she kept trying to give the crowd a send, and everyone was very very psyched when she to to the top.

Puccio

Puccio at the top of Final 4

AJ got the next highest, with 9 points. Angie got 8. Lisa and Megan got 6. Andrea and Faus got 5.

Megan

Megan about to jump off the double tufas.

~

Results

1. Alex Puccio – 3 tops, 52 points, 7 attempts to tops, 11 attempts to points

2. Andrea Szekely – 2 tops, 38 points, 6 attempts to top, 13 attempts to points

3. Isabelle Faus – 2 tops, 37 points, 4 attempts to tops, 7 attempts to points

4. Megan Mascarenas – 1 top, 43 points, 1 attempt to top, 6 attempts to points

5. Angie Payne – 1 top, 40 points, 3 attempts to top, 12 attempts to points

6. Alex Johnson – 1 top, 40 points, 1 attempt to top, 7 attempts to points

7. Lisa Chulich – no tops, 25 points, 6 attempts to points

~

So that’s it. Watch the live feed replay if you get a chance, it was a pretty awesome comp. Nice job to all competitors, organizers, volunteers, live feeders, photographers…everyone!

ABS 14 National Championship Final Results!!!

February 24, 2013 1 comment
b

The podiums. By Nina Williams

IAN DORY GOT 2nd!!!!!

Ian is a setter and coach at The Spot and he’s rapidly become a close member of our community. Ian is a great guy, a truly kind person, hard worker, and fantastic competitor. The first hint we had that he might have something to say at Nationals this year was when he crushed all the problems forerunning for the SBS 8 Gladiator Final a couple of weeks ago. We figured the problems were just a tad easy until the actual comp when we watched some of the best on them and realized how hard they actually were. Since then Ian hasn’t slowed down, and we were so proud and happy to see him climb so strong throughout the comp and earn his 2nd place finish. He rocked a headband the whole comp (it is his wife’s, Ian has been saying he needs a haircut for a few weeks now, but apparently he failed to get one and needed a way to keep his hair out of his face). We think the headband was good luck, and The Spot team members who traveled down to support Ian in finals made signs to wave that said as much.

Ian Dory Team Headband ABS 14 Nationals

Great job Ian!!!

~

Final Results

ABS 14 Finals were an extremely exciting round with all sorts of highs and lows, near misses and near saves. The competitors moved through the problems in world cup style, 1 problem at a time per gender and no-one moved on till everyone had climbed. Competitors had 4 minutes to try and finish the boulder. Scoring was: tops, points (1 pt per hold), attempts to top, attempts to points. This means that topping is the most important thing to win. Doing well on the other problems was the 2nd most important thing.

LT11 provided a live feed with live commentary by Pete Ward and Brian Runnels (the Climbing Narc) and it was fantastic. You can watch Qualis and Semis online here – TV | Louder Than 11

Replays and highlights will be coming soon.

Here are final results. I may give a short rundown later today as well for those who missed the feed and can’t wait for the replays to be available. It is snowing hard in Boulder so it’s a good day to stay inside.

Nice job to everyone on running the comp and nice job to all the competitors.

~

Women

Women's Final Results ABS 14 Nationals

~

Men

ABS 14 Nationals Men's Final Results~

Clicking the photos will take you to the ABS final scoresheets at absnationals.org.

More on the comp coming soon!

Ian is in finals!!!

February 23, 2013 Leave a comment
Men's Semifinal Results

Men’s Semifinal Results

Yeah IAN!!!  He just barely missed finishing problem 3 but flashed all 3 other finals and is in 3rd place going into finals! We are super proud of his performance and super excited to watch him compete in finals tonight alongside Carlo, Daniel, Garrett, Peter Dixon, and Vasya.

Ian Dory trying to finish Men's 3

Ian Dory trying to finish Men’s 3. Those pinches proved too slick for almost everyone. Only Carlo and Daniel stuck them, and both went right foot up, right hand first.

Want to watch finals? Either come on down to Colorado Springs, or watch live on Louder Than 11 TV

Schedule: ABS Nationals

Categories: 2013, ABS Nationals, Comps, Setters
%d bloggers like this: