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Angie Payne Is Going Big!

August 6, 2012 Leave a comment

Angie with the bags. Photo by Keith Ladinski

One of our favorite Boulder-based boulderers, the wonderful Miss Angie Payne, has headed off on a major expedition with Keith Ladzinski, Mike Libecki, and Ethan Pringle. Payne has started a blog where she will talk about the expedition (and other climbing-related stuff) and so far it is quite good. See it here – Angie Payne Blog.

What does this have to do with The Spot? While checking out her expedition info I realized that Angie’s athlete page on trip sponsor Mountain Hardware’s site has an interesting section where she talks about a moment that changed her climbing. The moment she is talking about happened at the 2010 Battle In The Bubble.

Angie was a major competitor for many years, though in the mid 2000’s she seemed to retire from comp climbing for a while. Then she got hurt, came back, began competing again, and a few months later became the first woman in the world to climb a confirmed V13 when she did The Automator at Rocky Mountain National Park.

It is cool to read that the Battle In The Bubble competition was so much fun for Angie and that it had such a positive effect on her climbing life.

Angie’s comments on the Mountain Hardware site

To see her whole Mountain Hardware athlete profile (which is pretty good reading) click here – Mountain Hardwear | Athlete Angela Payne – Climbing

And the picture she is talking about? Taken by none other than Ben Alexandra. Check it out:

Angie’s big smile | photo by Ben Alexandra

Have fun in Iceland and Greenland Angie!!!

New Links – Gravity Assassin & Tekkies, plus L’ouvre Boite

December 10, 2010 Leave a comment

Battle in the Bubble 2011 & Gravity Assassin Productions

Battle in the Bubble 2010 from Gravity Assassin Productions

There is one more comp to go in SBS Season VI, and after that we’ll be gearing up for the Battle in the Bubble 2011!

Gravity Assassin Productions will be producing the event, and I’ll keep leaking info as it comes to me.  You can also find ’em on Facebook.

Tekkies & L’ouvre Boite

A new boulder at the Calgary Climbing Center. Sick! Pic from the Tekkies blog.

If you look to the left sidebar under “Useful Info” you will see a new link for tekkies.  Tekkies is the Teknik handholds setting blog, and one of their setters is Tondé Katiyo, who you may remember from the few problems he set at The Spot a few years ago, or from his part in the crew at the 2009 UBC Summer Tradeshow Comp or the 2010 UBC Nor’easter event.  Tondé has written some very interesting (if you’re a setting nerd) and detailed discussions about some recent setting jobs he’s done.  I highly recommend checking them out.

Also, you might also want to check out L’ouvre Boite.  The site is owned and run by Tondé and 5 other French setters who have teamed up to offer a little more professional, unified setting product.  I think it’s an interesting way to approach the idea of professionalizing setting.

Battle in The Bubble Men’s DRCC Semifinals Video

June 21, 2010 Leave a comment

Yes, it’s really late.  No, it’s not edited any more thoroughly than the women’s video.  Includes footage of several different climbers and all 5 problems (not complete for a few of ’em though) and climaxes with Daniel Woods’ ascent of Semi 5.  Enjoy!

New Wall Grand Opening, Team Austria, and a Setting Update

June 2, 2010 Leave a comment

Today, Wednesday, June 2, is the grand opening day for the New Wall.  What does this mean for you?  FREE CLIMBING ALL DAY!!!  So bring your friends who aren’t members to check out the gym and talk them into joining!  We are also offering $5 daypasses on Thursday and Friday, and a summer membership special of $125 for 3 months of climbing.  They’re really good deals, so don’t miss out.

Carlo is jumping to the blue ring (below the purple Hueco). So far he is the only one who has stuck this dyno out the belly of the new wall.

Last week we finished the post-Battle gym reset, and this week we’re adding a bunch of problems to fill the walls in better.  Yesterday it was the Font, and today, I’m not really sure, you’ll have to come by and see!  Also yesterday, the Austrian team (and one of the Germans) showed up at the Spot to prep for the upcoming World Cup in Vail.  It was quite fun to watch them climb on the semifinals and finals from The Battle in The Bubble.

Team Austria at The Spot

World Cup winners checking out the Battle semis

See you at The Spot today!!!

DRCC Women’s Semifinals Video

May 29, 2010 3 comments

The setters all attended semifinals so we could get a good feel for how the competitors were climbing and make sure we didn’t need to make any tweaks to the difficulty of the finals problems.  I brought the little Flip camera my mom gave me for my birthday and shot some video of various people climbing various problems.  This video is of the DRCC Women’s Semifinals problems (though the first two are non-DRCC cause we didn’t have enough holds).  Most of the women who competed are in it, though I missed Audrey Sniezek and Kristen Felix–sorry girls!  The edit is pretty rough cause I didn’t have a ton of time, and I decided that comp background noises would give you a better feel for how things were going than a techno track would, so the original noise is in all the clips.  I’ll put a guys one together when I have time. Enjoy!

Battle in The Bubble – Men’s Final 5 – Technique Thoughts

May 18, 2010 3 comments

Obviously, Men’s Final 5 had to be a really hard problem.  The bulk of the problem was set by Jonny Hork, who took one look at the big purple Climb-It tufa and set to work screwing it on the steepest part of the roof.

First hold on the wall.

The ladder was sketchy (flimsy aluminum on wet plastic) so Jon decided to help Jonny out a bit.  Anyways, with a bit of input from the rest of the team and a lot of his own ideas, Jonny put up what turned out to be a spectacular final problem.  One of the most interesting things about it is that, after a few tries, both Daniel and Julian were getting high on the problem, but Daniel was besting Julian by two moves (even before he stuck the final hold in the dramatic finish).  Here are some pictures I took of their last tries, cause it’s interesting to see what’s different:

Julian

Julian sticking the Halo hold

Throwing his heel in the Halo

Doing an incredibly powerful flag move to the hold far out left.

Straining to reach the left hand hold, but he wasn't quite long enough in the position he was in to grab a hold of it well enough to move on.

It looked like Julian tried as hard as he could to reach that left hand, and he couldn’t quite get it well enough, so he fell off.  That Halo he’s matched in is kinda slopey, and it’s pretty impressive that he did the movement the way he did.  Let’s see how Daniel did it differently:

Daniel

Daniel kept his feet low and used a left foot heel hook on the tufa for the hand move out left.

He matched his right foot on the tufa, moved his left heel to a toe, and now he's in a good position to get his right heel up with his body already high.

With a high body and good heel, he can do the powerful move to the next high right handhold.

On his first two tries, Daniel did these same moves, but he seemed to be barely hanging on.  Before this try he had a 2 minute rest, and it showed.  In this sequence he is much stronger, and locked off much higher on his left hand and right heel, so the move to the high right hand isn’t so stretched out this time.  Also, his foot cut isn’t quite as dramatic as the one you saw in this post: Battle in The Bubble Goes Off HUGE!!! This go, his last, he easily got his feet back on, hucked sideways for the finish hold, and somehow, magically, stuck it.  The crowd went absolutely wild, competitors rushed the mats to hug Daniel, and everybody had huge grins on their faces.  It was a fantastic ending to a great event.

More Battle in The Bubble!!!

May 17, 2010 2 comments

Shannon Forsman with a good show on Women's 1

Photos, videos, and reviews of The Battle in The Bubble are pouring in.  It’s worth noting that there was a mistake on the original finals score posting–Chauncy Cox ended up in 4th and Flannery Shay-Nemirow was in 5th.  The mix-up was due to the fact that Flannery’s performance on earlier problems gave her a higher combined score than Chanuncy had, but Chauncy did better on the last problem they climbed on (W2) and since in the elimination format each problem is a blank slate, Chauncy’s performance progressed her to problem 3 and therefore she beat Flan, who suffered on the slab of problem 2.  Make sense?  I hope?  Results for all the events (citizen’s, semis, and finals) are here: Results | The Battle in The Bubble | Boulder, CO

Flan racking up the points on W1. Too bad they don't carry over...

Video #1 is out–a highlight reel from Sender Films.  Click here, and if it starts on the wrong video, scroll down on the right side–it’s the bottom one: Battle in the Bubble Highlight Reel on Spot TV

It was cold, but the crowd was pretty huge!

For some pictures by a guy who actually knows what he’s doing, check out these: Battle in the Bubble Finals – Bouldering Comp | Fullerton Images

There are also many pics showing up on Facebook and Keith Ladzinski took a bunch that will be showing up soon.  Stay tuned!

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