Archive for the ‘World Cup’ Category

World Cup Round Ups for 2015 Season

August 26, 2015 Leave a comment


Well, sorry to say I didn’t manage to write anything about any of the IFSCWC Bouldering events this season. It was a short but quite exciting season, and I did watch all the comps and do podcast roundups with John Blomquist of Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast. If you are interested in our rambling about the events, check out the podcast here:

#1 Toronto

#2 Vail

#3 Haiyang

#4 Chonqing

#5 Munich (World Championship)

John and I will probably do this next season as well and we want to talk about what you want to hear about, so let us know at


IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2015 #1 – Toronto + CWA Dyno Comp & Stuff…

June 1, 2015 Leave a comment

Angie Payne Toronto World Cup 2015

Toronto happened last weekend and my climbing hold company Kilter was proud to be the hold sponsor. I didn’t get to watch it on time (watched it later) so no full coverage here but my friend John over at Mantle Press Media and I had a conversation about the event for his podcast Chalk Talk. You can listen to it (and find other great podcasts with a variety of climbers and industry folks) on iTunes or over at his site Listen to our conversation and rewatch semis and finals here:


2015 Toronto Round Up

I was busy with the Climbing Wall Association Conference and Setter Showdown at Earth Treks Golden all weekend. We threw a big after party for the CWA at The Spot on Saturday and had another crazy dyno comp with tons of holds from Enix, Element, Kingdom, Nicros, Kilter, UP, Enterprises, Rock Candy, and Metolius. We’re taking some of the dynos down to make some wall space and preserve the problems we had up before cramming so many holds on that wall but don’t worry, some will stay up.

The Setter Showdown was a setting competition in Golden where 24 setters from different gyms came to test themselves in 3 rounds. When the day was over each setter had set 3 problems–two individual and one coset–on pre-assigned walls with pre-assigned holds and pre-assigned grades. The judges, who were Louie Anderson, Mike Helt, and myself, had to watch the setters and give scores for how functional and creative the problems were and how technically adept the setters were. It was a long two days and fairly difficult to judge but everyone had a good time I think and lots of friendships were formed. There should be a video coming soon and I’ll post it.

That’s all for now, sorry there aren’t more photos. Scour Facebook and I’ll post more soon.

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Laval, France – Semi Results + Finals Live Feed

June 28, 2014 Leave a comment

UPDATE: Here are the Semi Results with how everyone did on each problem:

Bouldering World Cup Laval France Semifinal Results Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 9.38.05 AM

Finals start around noon on Saturday, Boulder time. Watch the top 6 men and women battle it out. Overall season winners will also be decided. Jan Hojer has already won the overall for the men as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov missed semis. For the women it’s a tight race with Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi so close that whoever beats the other in this comp will take first. Exciting!!!


Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Laval, France – Quali Video and Results + Semis Live Feed

June 27, 2014 Leave a comment has posted qualifier videos from Laval:

They’ve also posted qualifiers from several other comps this season including Vail. Check out their youtube channel for more: On Bouldering Youtube


In Laval US Youth Phenom Megan Mascarenas has advanced to semifinals in fourth place!  She did all 5 qualifiers and it took her 9 attempts to top (she flashed to all bonuses). Tied for 1st are women’s WC powerhouses Shauna Coxsey, Anna Stöhr, and Akiyo Noguchi, who all did all 5 qualifiers in 5 attempts (all flash).

You will remember Megan, as she usually wins The Spot Bouldering Series open finals and also has done well at Nationals and at this year’s World Cup Final in Vail where she took 4th. It’s fun to watch her show the world what she can do. Congratulations Megan!!!

American competitor Miura Hawkins ended up in 25th. Here are the top 20 women who qualified for semis:

2014 Bouldering World Cup Laval France Women's qualifier results

For the men, our favorite young Korean climber, Jongwon Chon, has qualified tied for first with French master (and 2014 Vail WC winner) Guillaume Glairon Mondet. Many other favorites made the semifinal including Canadian Sean McColl who squeaked in in 20th place. Russian champion Dmitrii Sharafutdinov missed semifinals for the first time in a long time, ending up in a heartbreaking 21st. He would have needed one more top to get through. American and Spot fixture Nathaniel Spencer competed in Laval as well as his second Bouldering World Cup and ended up in 55th. Here are the men’s top 20:

Bouldering World Cup Laval France Qualifier Results Men

Full Laval Results on the IFSC Site

And here is the live feed for semifinals:

Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #7 – Haiyang, China – Results

June 21, 2014 2 comments
I can't find a feed to take a screen shot from so I'm borrowing this from the IFSC site.

I can’t find a feed to take a screen shot from so I’m borrowing this from the IFSC site. Akiyo winning.

I only got to watch the semifinal round of this comp, as the finals were in the middle of the night for us here. If you care about these events you’ll already know that Akiyo Noguchi won her third comp in a row and Jan Hojer won for the men. Nice job to both!


The finalists in Haiyang  |  Udo Neumann

The finalists in Haiyang | Udo Neumann

I can’t find the finals video replay, but when I find it I’ll add it here. UPDATE: Here it is! Finals:


Jan Hojer winning for the men. Photo by Udo Neumann.

Jan Hojer winning for the men. Photo by Udo Neumann.

Click here for some more great photos of the event from Udo

Here are the finals results:

Screen Shot 2014-06-21 at 9.33.55 PM Screen Shot 2014-06-21 at 9.34.06 PM


There is also a lead and speed aspect to this comp, and you can find more results et al here:

Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #6 – Vail – Some Pictures

June 9, 2014 Leave a comment
World Cup Vail 2014 Winners Akiyo Noguchi and Dmitrii Sharafutdinov

The winners!

I went to Vail this weekend and so did not watch the live feed and post about it. The comp was fantastic to watch and congratulations to Akiyo and Dmitrii on their wins.

A picture I took of Akiyo after the comp. She went power mad with her golden axe!

A picture I took of Akiyo after the comp. She went power mad with her golden axe!

I will write some thoughts and collect some more media soon, but here are some photos from Udo for the time being.


Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #5 – Toronto – Wrap-up Post

June 2, 2014 1 comment
Akiyo Noguchi winning decisively.

Akiyo Noguchi winning decisively on Women’s Final 4. Note the Kilter Grips Sandstone Medium 2 slot right of her toe. Nice!

Quali Results & Semifinals Replay

Semi Results & Live Finals Replay

We did a bunch of minute-t0-minute coverage through finals and will probably be updating some of it with more screen shots, or you can just watch the live feed. Here are the links for Finals problem rundowns:

Final 1

Final 2

Final 3

Final 4

Final Results

Next week is Vail. Enjoy!

Categories: 2014, Comps, World Cup
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