Archive for the ‘Other Spot Stuff’ Category

Summer Jam!

May 10, 2013 Leave a comment

The Spot Gym Summer Jam


Come on down next week for another great Spot event! Free to members, free with daypass entry, or $10 for food, Avery Beer, a great raffle, and more! Bring your friends! Check it out on Facebook – Summer Jam. Hope to see you there!

Categories: 2013, Other Spot Stuff

The Spot – Early May Setting Update + Spring in Review

May 4, 2013 Leave a comment

It’s been a long period of short updates (besides comp coverage) and so here is a little review of what we’ve been up to lately:

Connor rocked a mustache.

fig 1. Connor’s ‘stache.

1) Connor rocked a mustache for a few weeks (fig 1). You might call it a bit of a  social experiment, as he learned some things. Most women liked it. Most men either thought it was awesome or thought it was creepy. Awesome = comfortable with their manhood, creepy = they were threatened by it. Connor looked pretty amazing, obviously, and when he felt like it could deadpan creep out stare like nobody’s business.


2&3) We got a new setting closet. We moved from behind the River (fig 2) to the room that makes up the front half of the hold washing room. There are some things we will miss about the old room though (fig 3).

fig 2. The Old Closet

fig 2. The Old Closet


fig 3. awwww


Ian cleanin'

fig 4. Ian cleanin’

4) Ian Dory and I built some shelves in the new closet.



fig 5. Progress?

5) Jay Jay started collecting tape for “the world’s biggest tape ball”. She’s convinced she’ll easily beat the current world record. We told her she can but she has to keep the tape ball somewhere else, and it can’t interfere with work.


Spider's Web Rope The Spot Gym

fig. 6

6) Danny put up the lunch rope and got carried away.


Hold Block The Spot Gym

fig 7.

7) The best block ever? Yeah, I did this.


fig 8. New Floor under the Beach

fig 8. New Floor under the Beach

8. We got our new flooring in under The Beach! More new floor, in the whole gym, coming mid-July!


fig 9.

fig 9.

9. Jonny went all yacht club for the day in his Adidas Routesetter shirt, his fancy Verve pants, and his USAC Setter Sweatshirt.


fig 10.

fig 10.

10. The septuplet tape job on the new Dojo.


fig 11.

fig 11.

11) And finally, last week we reset the LEFT DOJO! Tons of new problems on the left bulge and the right side of the mid-Dojo overhanging arete. We’ve set more 2s and 3s than ever before on the left Dojo, so if you’ve never climbed on the Dojo might be a good time to try it. We’ve also got a bunch of everything else, so everyone should find something to send and project.


SCS Nationals 2013 Quali Results + Finals Schedule + Bye Old Beach Floor!

April 6, 2013 Leave a comment
Vasya Voritnikov by Vince Schaefer

Vasya in qualifiers | Vince Schaefer

SCS Nationals 2013 Qualifiers ran yesterday and results are posted here:

MEN’s Qualification Results 2013 SCS Nationals

WOMEN’s Qualification Results 2013 SCS Nationals

Top 8 go to finals. For the men, 8th ranked Elan Jonas Mcrae is a foreign national, meaning 9 go to finals (so there are 8 American men in finals). For the women, French Champion Charlotte Durif is in first, and two Continental Champions (Delaney Miller and Sasha DiGiulian) are in 4th and 5th, so all 3 “don’t count” and the top 11 women will go to finals.


Nina Williams in Qualifiers  |  Vince Schaefer

In exciting Spot news, Spot Coach Tiffany Hensley is going in 10th place. Good luck tonight Tiff!!!

Check out the schedule for finals on the SCS Nationals Website here – USA Climbing Sport Climbing Series Nationals

If you’re not in Boulder, you can watch the live feed of finals via LT11 here – TV | Louder Than 11


Also last night this was going on…

The Spot Gym Reflooring Project

New floor in progress! The Spot is open today (Beach and Yosemite closed) and Spot members can also climb for free at the BRC.


Ian Poster + Setting Update + Art Show + New Floor! + SCS Nationals

April 5, 2013 Leave a comment

Ian Dory Adidas The Spot Gym Flashed Five Ten

Adidas sent us this sweet poster of Spot Setter and Coach Ian Dory getting 2nd at ABS Nationals. We are so proud of Ian, and so psyched to have him on the side of the building!


Quick Setting Update

It was the oldest set, and also we’re getting a new floor under it (see below), so we reset The Beach this week! Setters were me, Danny, Connor, Jay Jay, Jonny, Ian Dory, Chris Schulte, Lily, and Ian Powell. We saved some of the new Teknik and E-Grips to put on this wall, and we also had a bunch of the last set of new holds freshly washed for the new Beach set.

We set 56 new problems from 1 spot to 5+. Over 1/3 of the new set are 3 spot or easier, and over half of the new problems are 4- or easier, so everyone of every ability should find plenty to warm up on and project.

Next week we will reset The Font!


Art Show

This is happening today, so come down and see the cool art that Spot climbers and staff have created. Painting, photography, drawing, wood cutting, jewelry, and more will be on display. Come on down and check it out!

Climbing Art Show at The Spot


New Floor!

Ok, so as you know we’re installing our first bit of new floor in this weekend! The red Beach floor will be replaced with a new floor from Futurist climbing. Here’s a photo of some of it:

The Spot Gym Futurist Climbing Flooring

To see a full album of our new foam coming off the truck (and who wouldn’t?!) click here: Spot New Floor Part 1

The Beach will be closed Saturday and Sunday for the installation, but the rest of The Spot will be open, and Spot members will also be able to climb free at The BRC during the Beach closure this weekend.


SCS Nationals

USA Climbing Sport Climbing Series National Championships is taking place this weekend in Boulder. LT11 will be live broadcasting here:  Don’t miss it!

Blog Updates

March 29, 2013 Leave a comment
Chris and Jon at Independence

Chris Schulte and Jon Glassberg filming in Independence Pass last summer. For the video (if you haven’t seen it already) check Chris’ Guest Setter page.

We made a few quick updates to the site.

First of all, we’ve updated the bios for setters:

Connor Griffith | The Spot Route Setting Blog


Ian Dory | The Spot Route Setting Blog

and added a little page for guest setter:

Chris Schulte | The Spot Route Setting Blog


We added this useful page to the sidebar of “Useful Info” links: Lincoln Lake Bouldering | An illustrative compilation of information about bouldering at Lincoln Lake


We also added a link to  iandory on Instagram.

To see the rest of our Instagram pages, scroll down and use the links on the right menu bar.


I’m back in town again and will have some reviews up soon for Prinz, Redpoint, and G-Strings.



Goodbye red pads. Hello Futurist flooring. Learn more:

Futurist Climbing

Reel Rock 2012 Thursday and Friday!

September 12, 2012 1 comment

That’s right, this Thursday (that’s tomorrow!) and this Friday The Spot will be at Reel Rock! Come by and see us during the pre-show and make sure you pick up your coupon for a free day pass. If you’re already a member, and we hope you are, you can use it to bring a friend or family member in to check out The Spot. Also exciting–the pre-tour ads will feature a short piece by setter Jon Glassberg and washer Jordan Shipman’s media company Louder Than 11.

If you don’t have tickets you’d better call around, we’re all sold out!

See you there!

Setting Update and Announcement – Brief Hueco Boulder Frontside Closure

September 7, 2012 Leave a comment

We will be closing the frontside of the Hueco boulder on Monday night, September 10th, at 10pm for a t-nut repair project. It will be loud on Tuesday until midday and most likely part of Wednesday as well, so apologies for that in advance. By Thursday afternoon we should have the wall reset with a light fill and we will continue the fill the following week on Tuesday the 18th and Wednesday the 19th. We will not be stripping any walls this week, only adding problems. The week after this is pre-comp week and we will not be setting Tues/Wed but instead will be setting Thurs/Fri for the comp. For those who don’t remember or don’t know, here is the comp setting schedule with wall closures:

Wednesday 9/26 – Stripping Dojo and Beach starting at 10pm.

Thursday 9/27 – Beach and Dojo closed to climbing, rest of gym open as usual. We begin stripping the rest of the gym at 10pm, but walls will be open to climbing until normal gym closure at 11pm.

Friday 9/28 – Gym closed for setting. Spot members can climb free of charge at the BRC.

Saturday 9/29 – THE GUN SHOW!!!  Gym closed except to competitors/spectators. Members can climb at BRC, but really you should come to our awesome comp! ABS sanctioned. 52 new boulder problems. Food from Naked Pizza. Beer from Avery. Entertainment. Pro Final. Super super super fun. Don’t miss it!!!

Sunday 9/30 the gym is open as usual with only comp problems and the Yosemite wall and treadwall set. On Monday 10/1, Tuesday 10/2, and Wednesday 10/3 we will set a light fill around the gym, so you’ll have lots to climb on.

I will post more on the comp and with other setting updates as they happen, as well as the update with broken holds from last week.

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