Archive for the ‘Setting Update’ Category

Quick Setting Update

October 2, 2013 Leave a comment

In the past two weeks we’ve reset the entire gym, adding over a hundred new problems across all the grades on all boulders. We also left up the dynos from Dynomite because they were so popular. The crew has included me, Connor, Jake, Joel, Jay Jay, Lily, and Ian, plus we got special guest setter help from our friend Cletus. Cletus is only in town for a bit, but we’re taking advantage of his setting skills while he’s here. He has been a climber and routesetter for some 18 years and has tons of experience setting at gyms including the Tennessee Bouldering Authority and Planet Granite. Look for his problems with a CW on all the boulders. His blue 4 spot on the Front Hueco Arete (northwest) is one of the most popular problems in the gym right now and was definitely last week’s problem of the week.

Next week is more fill. Everything will stay up until we strip for Psychedelia (only a few weeks away) so you have time to send your projects. Come on in and check them out!

Setting Update! + SBS 9 Dyno Mite Setting/Closure Schedule + M4M’ers Needed

September 4, 2013 Leave a comment

Setting Update 9/4/2013

Jay Jay, Connor, Ian, Jake and I were around this week, and in addition this was Lily’s last week of setting regularly before her grand road trip starts, Joel was able to come in as well, and on Wednesday we had a special guest, the head setter of Climb So Ill, John Oungst!

John turning a wrench for us at The Spot.

John turning a wrench for us at The Spot.

The group of us managed 60 new boulders on the River. Lily set with the Main Dish for the first time (hint: it’s big, blue, and on the far right river) and put up what I believe is her first 5 spot (blue tape, on the left river). Jake set a sweet mantle off the Main Dish after Lily had it on the wall (neon green), then had to replace the t-nut when retightening the hold. Joel put up another classic 5- (red, left river). I used the famous bear claw on a doable 4+ spot (blue, left river). Jay Jay set an awesome 4 spot (neon green, left river) and a few awesome 2 and 3 spots. John got a new personal record for longest bolt he’d ever had to use to put a foothold on the wall. Connor may have set the hardest dyno yet. Ian foreran in beastmode and brought everybody peaches. All in all, it was a nice week of setting.

Enjoy the problems!


Comp Setting/Closure Schedule

Next week we will be resetting the Back Hueco on Tuesday only. This is normal for a pre-comp week set, and as we set most of the Hueco last week the section that needs to be filled isn’t too big. We’re taking Wednesday off.

The week after that is comp setting week for the first comp of SBS 9 – Dyno Mite. This means we won’t be setting Tues/Wed and instead will be setting Thurs/Fri for the comp. The Spot is still open Thursday (September 19th) except for the Beach and the Dojo. The gym will be closed Friday (September 20th) for comp setting, and Spot members can most likely climb at the BRC.


M4M Volunteers Needed!

Speaking of SBS 9…we will have volunteer opportunities available with the setting department during each comp set. Duties will include helping us strip the holds and tape off the walls, sorting and cleaning up all the holds/bolts/tape, and washing holds. Volunteers will earn hours they can redeem for membership months at The Spot.

M4M trades should be treated like a job, and if we schedule you we are counting on you to be there. Times we will need volunteers for the upcoming comp are:

Wednesday September 18th – 10pm – 11:30 or midnight – stripping/clean-up Beach/Dojo

Thursday September 19th – all day for washing shifts, 10pm – midnight for stripping/clean up rest of walls

Friday September 20th – all day for washing shifts.

Washing shifts are generally 2 hours.

If you are interested and want to know more, please email First come-first served for the M4M schedule. You can accrue hours to use toward future months as well.

Categories: 2013, Setting Update

Ian Dory is Awesome! + Setting Update – New Beach + New Floor Article

August 21, 2013 Leave a comment

Quick Setting Update 

I’m back! So is Jay Jay! On Tuesday Connor, Jake, Ian, Lily, and Jay Jay set, today I joined them, and  now there are some 44 new problems on The Beach. Enjoy!


New Floor Article

The Colorado Daily thought it was pretty cool that we invested 180k in the new floor. Read their article here: Boulder’s The Spot climbing gym adds $180K of new flooring – Colorado Daily


Ian Dory Time!

Ian Dory Rock and Ice

We’re so psyched for Ian!  This is his first magazine cover, and it’s Rock and Ice’s Photo Annual! Very cool. He’s also been promoted to The Spot’s Head Coach and he’s already got some new work outs for the kids, and he’s been traveling with PCI and teaching clinics like this one he did at BKB Somersville‘s opening (click the name to check out their website, their new gym is amazing!):

Ian Dory PCI Clinic

He taught the lucky participants how to deal with little tricks like toe hooking and bicycling.

Yep, like that.

Yep, like that.

To see more photos of the event check out PCI (Pro Climbers International) on Facebook. Very cool Ian!


So that’s all for now. Hope you enjoy the new problems!

Setting Update – New Font!

August 15, 2013 Leave a comment

I’m still out of town, but this week Connor, Ian, Lily, Jake, and Jay Jay (yes, Jay Jay is back!) reset the Font boulder. Lily sent me some pictures:

People enjoying the new Font problems

People enjoying the new Font problems

The Spot Gym New Font Boulder

Spot Gym Font Boulder

Spot Gym Font Boulder

Spot Gym Font Boulder

The Spot Gym Ian Connor

Ian and Connor enjoying an after work beer while folks line up to try the new boulders.

Categories: 2013, Setting Update

Quick Update – Right Dojo Reset! + Youth Team Try-Outs

August 9, 2013 Leave a comment

Quick Setting Update

I’m still out of town, Danny is in Ten Sleep but last week was his last week setting regularly anyways because of his new job. Joel is at his hospital job orientation still. That means that Connor, Jake, Lily, and Ian reset the Right Dojo this week. Yay!


Youth Team Try-Outs

Ian Dory, Lily and I are all coaches of The Spot Youth Team, and the team tryouts are coming up next week! Here’s the info, hope to see you there!

Spot Team Try Outs August 2013 Info

Categories: 2013, Setting Update

Setting Update for 7/30 & 7/31 + Thanks Danny + Psicobloc!

August 1, 2013 Leave a comment

New Left Dojo!!!

Yay reset!

Yay reset!

The team was a bit short this week as Ian and I are out of town for the OIA Tradeshow (see below), and Joel is at his hospital job doing orientation. Danny, Jake, Connor, and Lily held down the fort and gave the Left Dojo a nice new fill with several big holds in new places and volumes for your climbing enjoyment. Danny reports 24 new problems from 2+ to 5+.


Thanks Danny!

Speaking of Danny, we are both happy (for him) and sad (for us) to report that Danny has got himself a shiny new job. Instead of his multiple days of doubles at his two jobs, Danny will now be working as a customer service rep for Salewa USA. He’ll still be around to help us set comps throughout this upcoming SBS season (and hopefully next season as well!) but he won’t be setting regularly anymore. You will still see him around the gym, so feel free to tell him you miss his setting.



Ian Dory and I both came to the Outdoor Retailer Tradeshow in Salt Lake City. On my way into town on Tuesday I stopped off in Park City to check out the climbing wall for the Psicocomp Deep Water Soloing competition. Everything about the comp is sweet–the wall is super pretty and super tall and it hangs over the landing pool for the Olympic Training Center ski ariels jumps. I could go on and on about the training center, with the jumps, the trampolines, the luge…but really you should just google it. Having a 52′ climbing wall hanging over the landing pool made it look like the best big-kid summer camp destination ever.

The wall, and a skier.

The wall, a trampoline, and a skier.

I am hoping they will do this comp again every year, or maybe just install the wall on a permanent basis. I was lucky enough to get to forerun on Tuesday afternoon and it was one of the most fun experiences I’ve ever had.

Me trying out the wall  |  Chris Schulte photo

Me trying out the wall | Chris Schulte photo

It was really intimidating but Chris, who is injured and can’t climb but really wanted to, pointed out that this wasn’t your everyday opportunity. I got my old shoes out of the truck and, after gleaning beta on the holds (which all look slopey and terrible from underneath) from the other 3 forerunners (all boys) I braved up and gave it a go. 1st go I didn’t commit to a move just above where I am in the picture and I dropped off. It wasn’t too hard, but man, as soon as you began to remember that however high you climbed was how far you would fall it was easy to want to let go. I let my shoes dry out and went again, this time to the two white volumes above my head (about 1/2 way) before I dropped. From where I was it was jugs to the lip of the headwall, but after looking down I decided I didn’t want to go that high. To qualify myself, I’ve jumped off higher cliffs than the top of this wall, and I know they did test falls, but the 10′ deep pool just didn’t seem deep enough to me for that big of a jump. Obviously it was, but I had a blast even 1/2 way up and it was plenty high for me to want to try again next year. Maybe I’ll even go to the top, I mean, Lynn Hill did it…

Lynn Hill falling off the last move of the qualifier!  |  Brian Sweeney Nip9 photo

Lynn Hill falling off the last move of the qualifier! | Brian Sweeney Nip9 photo

Brave and inspiring much?

And obviously boys LIKE jumping off big things into water. Spot Setter and Coach Ian Dory is in the pro comp and he went out the next day with all the other competitors for practice and qualifiers. A bunch of people clawed their way over the top and took the jump. Here’re are two great pictures of Ian and Jon Cardwell jumping together.

Ian Dory and Jon Cardwell jumping from the top of the wall.

Ian Dory and Jon Cardwell jumping from the top of the wall.

Ian and Jon jumping  |  Matty Hong

Ian and Jon jumping | Matty Hong photo

Awesome? Yes.

If you’re not lucky enough to be in SLC you can watch the live feed from LT11.

If you are lucky enough to be in SLC you should go to the comp, and do the citizen’s comp Sat/Sun (either or both, not sure). Climbing on this wall was SO MUCH FUN!

Ok, so that’s all for now.  Here’s a link to the live feed – Psicobloc Masters Series on Livestream

Wish Ian luck!

Setting Update + NEW VOLUMES!

July 25, 2013 2 comments

Setting Update

New Left River

New Left River

We reset the River!

The New Right River

The New Right River

Jake, Danny, Connor, Ian, and I stripped and reset the full River this week.  Joel was at orientation for his other job and Lily is in Rifle.  Despite a few minor epics (a majorly stuck hold, patching a spot on the wall, etc…) we managed to get a ton of new problems up over Tuesday and Wednesday. Part of the reset involves the…

…Two New Volumes from Flashed Climbing!

New Flashed volume on the Left River

New Flashed volume on the Left River

We got two new volumes from Flashed! These are some of the first volumes Flashed has produced, and since Ian and I are both Flashed Athletes we’re lucky enough to get to try them out.

Here’s the other, it’s called the Speaker Box:

The Speaker Box

The Speaker Box after the first day’s set. There are more holds on it now.

These volumes are a bit different in most in that you can take panels off while the volume is on the wall, and you can put holds on any of the connecting points for panels because they are connected with the same size bolt and t-nut as we use for climbing holds. You can also drill new holes easily and put new t-nuts pretty much wherever you want them.

Another angle of the first volume.

Another angle of the first volume after the first day’s set. There are more holds on it now.

The idea is that the volume can be easily assembled/disassembled so you can put them up in pieces and so stuck holds can be fixed without taking the whole volume off the wall. You can take individual panels off to get at the problem spot or to take the problem-panel off and fix it before putting it back on the wall. There is a mounting plate for the wall that the volume bolts on to, so attaching it should be fairly easy IF you don’t bend the frame, like we did with the Speaker Box. We sorted it out eventually…just one more benefit of our sculpted walls at The Spot. We got ’em up though, and we set all over them. Check ’em out and let us know what you think!

Also, if you’re looking for a great alpine bouldering pad, the Ninja is my favorite because it’s a nice midsize pad with a fantastic carrying system. Check it out here: Flashed / Mats / Ninja


I’m going to be out of town for the next few weeks for the Tradeshow and a few other things, but the boys and Lily will be around and setting on our regular schedule. Next week is Left Dojo!

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