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Archive for the ‘Video’ Category

Kevin Climbs Big Worm!

April 14, 2014 1 comment

Sorry for being the slowest blogger ever. Between Kilter and coaching and setting and trying to climb I’ve been quite busy. In any case, coming soon we’ll post reviews for Escape, ENIX, and PUR holds. Til then, enjoy this recently recovered video of Spot setter Kevin Cuckovich sending Big Worm (V14?) last summer at Mount Evans. Nice one Kevin!

[vimeo 91970108]
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Psicocomp – Cool fall from Jimmy Webb

August 2, 2013 Leave a comment

Beau Kahler captured this sweet mid-air recovery from Jimmy Webb. This is what we all hope we’d do when imagining a weird out of balance fall from a DWS wall. Good one Jimmy. Trying to get the embed link to work, but til then: beauknowsphotos on Instagram

Setting Update for June 25/26 and July 2 + New Setters + Videos!

July 2, 2013 Leave a comment

June 25/26 + New Setters

We reset the Right Dojo so now the whole Dojo has a new set. The crew for the right Dojo was Danny, Connor, Lily, and I, plus two new setters–Joel Zerr and Jake Novotny. We’ll add bios for them soon, but til then: Joel is a longtime setter and good friend of mine who has recently relocated from the Reno/Tahoe area, where he’s been putting up new problems outdoors, making videos for Asana, and helping with the new Tahoe Bouldering guidebooks. Jake is from Tahoe and also just moved here. He used to be a motocross racer but he’s changed his focus to climbing and has been setting at High Altitude in Lake Tahoe. He will be setting with us through the summer at least and most likely for comps or perhaps full time in the fall. Check out their problems, they are labeled, JZ for Joel and JN for Jake, and let us know what you think!

The new Right Dojo

The new Right Dojo

The Cave

The New Cave

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Today, July 2nd, we stripped and started resetting the Beach. 13 problems set by Me, Danny, Jake, and Lily. Joel is in Atlanta setting for SCS Junior Nationals. Connor is in California visiting his family. More problems coming tomorrow!!!

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Here are some videos of Joel and Jake climbing. The top one is Joel, Jake, and others climbing in the Sierras. The lower one is just Joel and shows him climbing a problem with ridiculous beta called March of the Pigs in Bishop and also Mandala Sit at the Buttermilks.

Categories: 2013, Setters, Setting Update, Video

Jan Hojer training video

May 20, 2013 1 comment
Categories: 2013, Comps, Training, Video, World Cup

Holds Everywhere! + New So Ill!

May 10, 2013 Leave a comment

Some days routesetting can be a long and tiring job. Stripping, washing, setting, and holds holds holds. Sometimes things can get away from you…

We’re excited to be getting some brand new So Ill holds soon. Look for them on our walls in the next couple of weeks!

Categories: 2013, Humor, New Holds!, So Ill, Video

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 Season Comp 1 + Comp 2 Qualis

April 5, 2013 1 comment

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The Bouldering World Cup season has begun again. I’m probably not going to cover all the comps this season besides sharing results and some impressions, largely because it is labor intensive and now you can rewatch the live feeds almost immediately. Thanks IFSC!

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The first event this season was in Chongquig, China. Top 3 women were Anna Stöhr (AUT), Momoka Oda (JPN), and Alex Puccio (USA). Top 3 men were Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS), Jakob Schubert (AUT) and Tsukuru Hori (JPN). Nice showing for Japan and Austria with 2 podiums each, and of course Dmitrii has been very dominant the last couple of seasons for Russia. We are very proud to see Team USA climber Alex Puccio continuing to represent the USA all by herself by podiuming once again. Nice job Alex!

If you missed the comp the IFSC has a nice results/write up with video of all the rounds. You can read/watch it here: Podium revisited: Stöhr and Sharafutdinov win the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the season (It was also a speed event, so those results/video are also at the link.)

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One of the first Indian competitors

One of the first competitors from India in qualifiers in Millau.

The 2nd event is in Millau, France, and is happening today and tomorrow. Qualifiers for women were much earlier today and men’s are just ending. The men’s problems look really hard–very powerful, also very technical/body tensiony except one which seems to be several dynos in a row–a double to pinches, a sideways to a volume, and another big move to the top. From what I saw (the last 1/4th of the field) Men’s 1 and Men’s 4 got topped out by several competitors and everyone else was getting shut down.

The comments are in all languages, which is cool. You can tell from the incoming chat questions and the announcer’s live responses that some viewers are not at all experienced with climbing or climbing competitions. I find this very exciting–perhaps climbing is finally finding a non-climbing audience!

The live feed reruns can be watched here:

IFSC Climbing World Cup Millau 2013 – Bouldering WOMEN Qualifications – YouTube

IFSC Climbing World Cup Millau 2013 – Bouldering MEN Qualifications – LIVE – YouTube

Below are the top 20 qualifier results. These climbers will advance to semis, so if you don’t want to know before you watch it, don’t scroll down! Semis and finals are tomorrow. Stay tuned!

You can watch live, see results and everything else here: IFSC Climbing.org

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Women’s Top 20

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Men’s Top 20

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So that’s all for now. Stay tuned!

Categories: 2013, Comps, Video, World Cup

ABS Nationals Highlights Videos

February 26, 2013 Leave a comment
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