Kevin Climbs Big Worm!

Sorry for being the slowest blogger ever. Between Kilter and coaching and setting and trying to climb I’ve been quite busy. In any case, coming soon we’ll post reviews for Escape, ENIX, and PUR holds. Til then, enjoy this recently recovered video of Spot setter Kevin Cuckovich sending Big Worm (V14?) last summer at Mount Evans. Nice one Kevin!

[vimeo 91970108]

Advertisement

Psicocomp – Cool fall from Jimmy Webb

Beau Kahler captured this sweet mid-air recovery from Jimmy Webb. This is what we all hope we’d do when imagining a weird out of balance fall from a DWS wall. Good one Jimmy. Trying to get the embed link to work, but til then: beauknowsphotos on Instagram

Setting Update for June 25/26 and July 2 + New Setters + Videos!

June 25/26 + New Setters

We reset the Right Dojo so now the whole Dojo has a new set. The crew for the right Dojo was Danny, Connor, Lily, and I, plus two new setters–Joel Zerr and Jake Novotny. We’ll add bios for them soon, but til then: Joel is a longtime setter and good friend of mine who has recently relocated from the Reno/Tahoe area, where he’s been putting up new problems outdoors, making videos for Asana, and helping with the new Tahoe Bouldering guidebooks. Jake is from Tahoe and also just moved here. He used to be a motocross racer but he’s changed his focus to climbing and has been setting at High Altitude in Lake Tahoe. He will be setting with us through the summer at least and most likely for comps or perhaps full time in the fall. Check out their problems, they are labeled, JZ for Joel and JN for Jake, and let us know what you think!

The new Right Dojo

The New Cave

~

Today, July 2nd, we stripped and started resetting the Beach. 13 problems set by Me, Danny, Jake, and Lily. Joel is in Atlanta setting for SCS Junior Nationals. Connor is in California visiting his family. More problems coming tomorrow!!!

~

Here are some videos of Joel and Jake climbing. The top one is Joel, Jake, and others climbing in the Sierras. The lower one is just Joel and shows him climbing a problem with ridiculous beta called March of the Pigs in Bishop and also Mandala Sit at the Buttermilks.

Jan Hojer training video

A look at what Innsbruck World Cup Champion Jan Hojer does for training:

Holds Everywhere! + New So Ill!

Some days routesetting can be a long and tiring job. Stripping, washing, setting, and holds holds holds. Sometimes things can get away from you…

We’re excited to be getting some brand new So Ill holds soon. Look for them on our walls in the next couple of weeks!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 Season Comp 1 + Comp 2 Qualis

The Bouldering World Cup season has begun again. I’m probably not going to cover all the comps this season besides sharing results and some impressions, largely because it is labor intensive and now you can rewatch the live feeds almost immediately. Thanks IFSC!

~

The first event this season was in Chongquig, China. Top 3 women were Anna Stöhr (AUT), Momoka Oda (JPN), and Alex Puccio (USA). Top 3 men were Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS), Jakob Schubert (AUT) and Tsukuru Hori (JPN). Nice showing for Japan and Austria with 2 podiums each, and of course Dmitrii has been very dominant the last couple of seasons for Russia. We are very proud to see Team USA climber Alex Puccio continuing to represent the USA all by herself by podiuming once again. Nice job Alex!

If you missed the comp the IFSC has a nice results/write up with video of all the rounds. You can read/watch it here: Podium revisited: Stöhr and Sharafutdinov win the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the season (It was also a speed event, so those results/video are also at the link.)

~

One of the first competitors from India in qualifiers in Millau.

The 2nd event is in Millau, France, and is happening today and tomorrow. Qualifiers for women were much earlier today and men’s are just ending. The men’s problems look really hard–very powerful, also very technical/body tensiony except one which seems to be several dynos in a row–a double to pinches, a sideways to a volume, and another big move to the top. From what I saw (the last 1/4th of the field) Men’s 1 and Men’s 4 got topped out by several competitors and everyone else was getting shut down.

The comments are in all languages, which is cool. You can tell from the incoming chat questions and the announcer’s live responses that some viewers are not at all experienced with climbing or climbing competitions. I find this very exciting–perhaps climbing is finally finding a non-climbing audience!

The live feed reruns can be watched here:

IFSC Climbing World Cup Millau 2013 – Bouldering WOMEN Qualifications – YouTube

IFSC Climbing World Cup Millau 2013 – Bouldering MEN Qualifications – LIVE – YouTube

Below are the top 20 qualifier results. These climbers will advance to semis, so if you don’t want to know before you watch it, don’t scroll down! Semis and finals are tomorrow. Stay tuned!

You can watch live, see results and everything else here: IFSC Climbing.org

~

Women’s Top 20

~

Men’s Top 20

~

So that’s all for now. Stay tuned!

ABS Nationals Highlights Videos

We set on the Dojo today. Much more tomorrow. Enjoy!

Hueco Season!

Hueco!

It’s about Hueco season so hopefully everyone’s already got their reservations. If not, you can schedule tours and camping through the Wagon Wheel Coopt and also at the Hueco Rock Ranch which was just purchased by the American Alpine Club. You can also camp at the park, but call ahead to reserve your space!

Here’s a never-before-released video of my friend Vanessa and I during the 2010 season that Chris just dredged up from the depths of his hard drive.  Enjoy!

And to watch more Hueco vids check out this Vimeo channel:  Hueco Tanks Bouldering! on Vimeo

Dark Horse Video with Connor and Danny

Recently setters Connor and Danny helped Jon make a promo video for the Dark Horse comps–a series out of the Metrorock gyms Boston. Dave Wetmore, who as you know is setting at The Spot when he’s in Boulder, is the head setter at Metrorock and he even though he’s on sabbatical, he goes home to Boston to set for these comps. The video is to motivate and inspire–especially for those who don’t have access to amenities like The Spot. How are you training?

And check out the comp series here: 2012-2013 Dates | The Dark Horse Series

New Film from LT11 – ABYSS!!!

The film includes many first ascents by setter Jon as well as some Danny from 2011 and some Dave. Interviews include Glassberg and Rich Crowder as well as John Sherman, Joe Kinder, Ben Scott, Ben Spannuth, Chris Schulte, Paige Claassen, Peter Beal, Access Fund Director Brady Robinson, Revolution/Pusher founder/owner Clark Shelk, Herm Feissner, and even a short bit from Chris Sharma! Climbers include Glassberg, Crowder, Claassen, Spannuth, Schulte, Wetmore, Matty Hong, Matt Wilder, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ryan Silven, Adam Healy (uncredited), and even a distance shot of our good friends Devin Finucane and Chris Taylor questing up some unknown alpine cracks.

For outtakes, the free full-length download, and more, go to the Abyss LT11 site by clicking the logo here:

Nice job Jon, Jordan, and Rich on this fantastic new film!