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Archive for the ‘Hueco Back Scoop’ Category

Setting Update + Auto Belays!

July 19, 2013 Leave a comment
New Hueco!

New Hueco!

Last week Jake, Danny, Connor, Ian, Joel, Lily and I reset the whole Hueco boulder! You can see the new floor takes a little height from the boulder but it’s still intimidatingly huge! Come in and try out our new problems.

New back Hueco

New back Hueco

New Back Hueco Scoop

New Back Hueco Scoop

Another angle

Another angle

One more shot, below, of the small scoop…

Small front scoop

I am especially proud of this problem–the red 5 spot that starts just right of the scoop, climbs through the scoop on that cool yellow Urban Plastix font feature, then goes up the face on some Kilter incuts. Don’t forget your feet!!!

~

We also got some new Auto Belays on the Yosemite wall for those of you who like to run laps on routes. Ian Dory came in and set some more routes across the Yosemite, especially under the auto-belays, so you’ll have options up to 5.12 to train on.

Yosemite with new routes and auto belays.

Yosemite with more routes and auto belays.

So come on in, check out our new problems, our new routes, our new auto-belays, and our NEW FLOOR! Also, the Avery beer taps are now pouring after 5pm to all who are of age and no longer climbing for the day, and you can buy Evol burritos as well.

See you at the Spot!

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Setting Update + Mini-Comp + 2 Years, and what has changed?

December 6, 2012 Leave a comment

Setting Update

As you know, we had the Highballs & Highlines comp last week. That means this week was the first part of the reset. We got problems up on the Dojo, Full Hueco, Full River, and Full Font. Next week, the Beach!

Mini Comp

Things were a little different than normal because we ran a mock-onsight comp for our Comp Team to get them ready for Regionals this weekend in Fort Collins. We closed off the Dojo and Back Hueco and set 4 sets of 3 boulders of ascending difficulty. Each set had the first problem on the Right Dojo or in the cave, the 2nd problem on the Back Hueco Scoop, and the 3rd problem on the Left Dojo Belly.

The format is 4 minutes on, 30 sec transition, 4 minutes rest, 30 sec transition, 4 minutes on, etc…  If you finish the problem you get to rest the remainder of that 4 minute climbing period + your 4 minute rest period before climbing again. Tries count, so you want to onsight. If you’d like to check them out, here are the sets:

Set 1

Female Jr/Male Youth A (16-17) – Purple Tape

Prob 1  Right Dojo arete, compression, 4+

Prob 2  Starts on right side of back scoop on two purple e-grips scoops, moves up and left through scoop, finishes by downclimb. 4+

Prob 3  Starts on left side of Left Dojo Belly, big moves up thin crimps, 5-

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Set 2

Female Youth B (14-15) – Blue tape

Prob 1  Right Dojo by Yosemite Wall 4/-

Prob 2  Back Hueco Scoop, starts on yellow sloper on left side and moves up and right. (This problem was also used for Youth C) 4-

Prob 3  Left Dojo starts on right side, moves left through good holds and straight up. 4

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Set 3

Female Youth C/Male Youth C (12-13) – Orange Tape (and blue for prob 2)

Prob 1  Starts left side of Dojo Cave, climbs straight out. 4

Prob 2  Shared with FYB Prob 2 – Yellow sloper on left side of Back Hueco Scoop, climbs up and right, blue tape. 4-

Prob 3  Starts on large red rail on left side of Left Dojo, climbs up through pinches. Orange 4+

~

Set 4

Youth D (11 and under) – White Tape

Prob 1  Starts back right Dojo Cave, climbs straight out to lip. 3+

Prob 2  Starts Left side of Back Hueco Scoop, climbs up and right. 4-

Prob 3  Starts left arete of Left Dojo Belly, climbs out face, then back up and left. 4/+

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2 Years…

At lunch yesterday Jonny, Connor, Jon, and I decided to take a shot like the shot for the Colorado Daily that our friend, photographer Greg Mionske took a few years ago. When I got home I found the old shot and realized they were taken almost exactly two years apart. We are more-or-less the same…Jon looks older and he and I are both wearing updated Sportiva Hoodies from the old ones we were wearing in the original. Connor and Jonny both seem to be wearing the same pants and Jonny perhaps the same jacket as well. Connor’s got a little bit more of a beard. Overall though, as Jon said, “What are we doing with our lives?!”

BenchShotsoldandnew

Quick Setting Update

November 7, 2012 Leave a comment

This week we added a bunch of climbs to both sides of the Dojo and Hueco boulders. Next week, the Beach!

The week of Thanksgiving is pre-comp week so there will either be a light set, adding problems without stripping anything, or no set, depending on setters’ schedules. We’ll keep you posted.

Get in here and check out the new problems!

Quick Reset Update + An Interesting Solution

February 9, 2012 4 comments

Reset Update

So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.

 

An Interesting Solution

A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:

Ok, so she's got the volume. Now how to get to the cone?

Ok, so maybe try a heel up?

And rock. This does not look super comfortable...

Yes, it did work. Apparently she does yoga. A lot. Nice job on finding an original solution to this boulder problem!

Gladiator Finals Reset Update

January 27, 2011 Leave a comment

As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on.  Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach.  Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session.  No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule.  Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:

On Monday, Carlo dropped a wrench on his face.

On Tuesday, Jon got back from the tradeshow and brought Danny a backpack with his picture on it from their mutual sponsor Revolution. We made him wear it all day.

Then Jon set a very creative start to a boulder in the right dojo.

Danny solved the problem another way, but Jon didn't really fit...

Carlo had to try it out as well...

Then Carlo became a "happy baby chalk bucket" which Jon had to try out. Nic watched with amusement from a hold bucket.

When we got back from lunch we found that somebody made their own very rugged parking spot.

Carlo sporting new Verve 4-way stretch camo Xeno pants while Danny foreruns the Beach.

Danny demonstrating the correct spotting position while Jonny does Carlo's technical blue 5- on the far right beach.

Left River

Right River

Right Dojo

Left Dojo

Hueco Front Scoop

Hueco Front Small Scoop

Hueco Back Scoop

Left Beach

Left Middle Beach

Right Beach

Enjoy!

Highball/Highline Video from Jon Glassberg + Setting Update 12/8 & 12/9 + The Little Banana

December 9, 2010 Leave a comment

Highline/Highball Video

Jon put together this nice short video with highlights from finals and the slackline competition.

Setting Update 12/8 & 12/9

Here are a few photos from yesterday and today’s setting sessions.  With our set of the Beach today we’ve got 4/5ths of the gym reset.  Yay!!!

The Hueco New Frontside

The Hueco New Backside

Carlo set this sloper problem on the Hueco yesterday, and nobody climbed on it but Carlo when we were forerunning. We thought this single handprint this morning was pretty funny.

New Left Beach

New Right Beach

New Middle of the Beach

See that blur in the left side of the picture? That's Carlo falling off the crazy sideways dyno he set on the new white problem. At least he didn't faceplant this time like he did on his first try.

The Little Banana

I stopped at the store on the way home today for a few things, and I found these bananas, which struck me as funny:

The Little Banana

Setting Update 10.5-10.7 & The Side Saddle

October 8, 2010 Leave a comment

So on Tuesday and Wednesday of this week we finished up the reset by adding a bunch of problems to the front and back of the Hueco Boulder.  Thursday was spent filling in wherever needed.  The highlight was definitely Wednesday afternoon’s discovery of the no hands, no feet start that was possible on the neon yellow boulder in the back Hueco scoop.  We tested out several methods for starting this problem, including:

 

Jay Jay showing off the face-first method, aka, the Missionary Sit

 

 

The face-out Om Sit

 

Josh showing off The Toe-Press Lemay (notice his hand is only touching his shoe, not the hold).

 

 

 

Jon showing us how comfortable The Sidesaddle really is.

 

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