Archive for the ‘Hueco Frontside Small Scoop’ Category

Setting Update + Auto Belays!

July 19, 2013 Leave a comment
New Hueco!

New Hueco!

Last week Jake, Danny, Connor, Ian, Joel, Lily and I reset the whole Hueco boulder! You can see the new floor takes a little height from the boulder but it’s still intimidatingly huge! Come in and try out our new problems.

New back Hueco

New back Hueco

New Back Hueco Scoop

New Back Hueco Scoop

Another angle

Another angle

One more shot, below, of the small scoop…

Small front scoop

I am especially proud of this problem–the red 5 spot that starts just right of the scoop, climbs through the scoop on that cool yellow Urban Plastix font feature, then goes up the face on some Kilter incuts. Don’t forget your feet!!!


We also got some new Auto Belays on the Yosemite wall for those of you who like to run laps on routes. Ian Dory came in and set some more routes across the Yosemite, especially under the auto-belays, so you’ll have options up to 5.12 to train on.

Yosemite with new routes and auto belays.

Yosemite with more routes and auto belays.

So come on in, check out our new problems, our new routes, our new auto-belays, and our NEW FLOOR! Also, the Avery beer taps are now pouring after 5pm to all who are of age and no longer climbing for the day, and you can buy Evol burritos as well.

See you at the Spot!

Setting Update – May 28 & 29

May 29, 2013 Leave a comment

Today we finished setting the Front Hueco. We had a great hold selection including our new Urban Plastix, new So Ill from last week, some of our new Kilter holds, and old standbys including newish Tekniks and E-Grips. We expanded the set around to both the East and West faces of the Hueco so you should find plenty of space to climb on new problems. Enjoy!

It is Climbing Wall Association Conference week, which means climbing industry professionals from across the US are in town attending conference activities and visiting gyms, and so we wore our fancy setting shirts today. Jaime came down and took a picture, and the boys absolutely love having their pictures taken, so this is what happened:

On the ladder: Me, Lily, Jonny, and Ian; In the ladder: Connor, Danny

From left, on the ladder: Me, Lily, Jonny, and Ian; In the ladder: Connor, Danny.

Lily isn’t actually upset, she’d just been outside and come in to find us all on the ladder and wasn’t sure what was going on until after the picture was taken. The rest of us, obviously, are having a wonderful time.

Come in and check out the new Front Hueco!

Quick Setting Update

November 7, 2012 Leave a comment

This week we added a bunch of climbs to both sides of the Dojo and Hueco boulders. Next week, the Beach!

The week of Thanksgiving is pre-comp week so there will either be a light set, adding problems without stripping anything, or no set, depending on setters’ schedules. We’ll keep you posted.

Get in here and check out the new problems!

Setting Update for 5/15 and 5/16 + Broken Holds + New Setting Board + Falling Clinic with Timy Fairfield

May 16, 2012 Leave a comment

Hokay, we had sort of a big week for how mellow of a week we thought it’d be.

Setting Update

Tuesday Jonny, Carlo, Jay Jay, Danny, Ian and I stripped the front of the Hueco boulder and added a bunch of new problems. Our good buddy Jordan came in and helped wash so we got a full setting session out of Ian and you can check out his unique take on movement with several problems on the left side (small scoop) of the front Hueco. Here is what the boulder looks like:

The New Front Hueco

Trust Falls with Timy

Wednesday we were going to fill-in the boulder a bit more but we ended up spending most of the day doing a falling clinic with Timy Fairfield. Timy is a long-time fixture in the climbing community–he has had a long career as a competitor, trainer, setter, and consultant. He came in to give us a presentation about falling–how other sports approach it vs how bouldering approaches it, the best techniques for falling as safely as possible, and what steps we should take to help people learn to fall better. If you want to know more about Timy go to his website here – The Spot.

Most of the clinic participants: (top) Adam, Clink, Dan, Timy, Me, Danny, Jonny, Jon Grayson, Carlo, Kellen (bottom) Brett, Jay Jay, Josh, Nesto (Timy’s buisness partner)

Broken Holds

Other exciting happenings this week – we broke a bunch of holds. Yep. Really only 4, but I think I’m going to start sharing pics of the holds we break so people can see what is breaking and how it is breaking. Here’s this week’s broken line-up:

This one is a shame. An older Climb-it hold (from the first Dojo order). Sadly between the two fractures this one is toast.

A broken Climb-it hold. Fractured near the base of the bolt tube – a common breaking point for this hold, we’ve already lost 1 this way.

Another Climb-It victim. Another hollow-back bolt tube failure.

I’m not sure what this hold is. The back totally blew out. I think it is maybe a Rock Candy, as the mix is similar to a few other Rock Candy holds we have, but I’m hesitant to say so for sure since I’m not 100% sure and I think they’re still mad at us for our last hold review on them. UPDATE 2014: Nathan says he thinks not a Rock Candy, and it’s far too late to know what it actually is, so sorry, but it’s definitely broken and now long gone. UPDATE OVER. It might also be a Vision hold? It definitely glows in the dark, and the breakage was due to it being soft I guess since the fractures almost look like how Jello tears.

New Setting Board

Finally, we got a new setting board!  Our bios are way smaller (turns out other departments wanted part of our wall too) and we’ve got a new system for putting up the problem #s, the new set #s and picture, and soon a “next set” and “problem of the week” will be added too. Here’s Jay Jay showing off what it currently looks like:

Quick Reset Update + An Interesting Solution

February 9, 2012 4 comments

Reset Update

So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.


An Interesting Solution

A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:

Ok, so she's got the volume. Now how to get to the cone?

Ok, so maybe try a heel up?

And rock. This does not look super comfortable...

Yes, it did work. Apparently she does yoga. A lot. Nice job on finding an original solution to this boulder problem!

Quick Setting Update for 6/7 and 6/8

June 10, 2011 3 comments

If you’ve been in the gym you’ll have noticed the brand new problems covering the front of the Hueco boulder.  The crew was small this week–on Tuesday it was Danny, Carlo, and I with Garrett for two hours in the morning.  It took us quite a while to strip the whole boulder, not to mention the several stuck holds, but after lunch we were very productive and put up one of each grade from 3- to 5+.

Garrett and Danny ready for our lunch time field trip.

On Wednesday Garrett and Jonny were with us for the whole day and we filled in the front of the boulder as best we could with many awesome and challenging problems.  If you’re climbing 5+, you should definitely check out the white up the center of the boulder.  If you get stuck navigating the two crimps and bubble wraps, ask a setter for the secret beta.  Also good for 4 spot climbers are the green and blue in the small scoop, and for 3 spot climbers there are several nice problems across the whole front of the boulder.  We ate way too much lunch on Wednesday, since we went to Modmarket and got huge salads, then ate cookies I made at home, then for some reason on the way back to the Spot we went to Ripple for frozen yogurt.

Yeah. Yum.

Then we went back to the gym to finish setting and forerun.  So if the problems from Wednesday feel soft, this is probably why.  We all gained 20 lbs at lunch.  Next week?  The Beach!

Gladiator Finals Reset Update

January 27, 2011 Leave a comment

As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on.  Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach.  Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session.  No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule.  Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:

On Monday, Carlo dropped a wrench on his face.

On Tuesday, Jon got back from the tradeshow and brought Danny a backpack with his picture on it from their mutual sponsor Revolution. We made him wear it all day.

Then Jon set a very creative start to a boulder in the right dojo.

Danny solved the problem another way, but Jon didn't really fit...

Carlo had to try it out as well...

Then Carlo became a "happy baby chalk bucket" which Jon had to try out. Nic watched with amusement from a hold bucket.

When we got back from lunch we found that somebody made their own very rugged parking spot.

Carlo sporting new Verve 4-way stretch camo Xeno pants while Danny foreruns the Beach.

Danny demonstrating the correct spotting position while Jonny does Carlo's technical blue 5- on the far right beach.

Left River

Right River

Right Dojo

Left Dojo

Hueco Front Scoop

Hueco Front Small Scoop

Hueco Back Scoop

Left Beach

Left Middle Beach

Right Beach


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