Jackie Hueftle

Rataplat  |  Fontainebleau  |  France  |  Justin Alarcon

Jackie Hueftle started climbing and routesetting in Reno, Nevada, in 1998. She enjoys setting technical climbs (both routes and boulder problems), though over the years she has dabbled in many different styles in an effort to improve her own climbing and challenge herself as a setter. Jackie was the Head Setter at The Spot for several years until she stepped away in 2017 to focus on her climbing hold company Kilter Grips.

Jackie competed in the JCCA (old USA Climbing) for 3 years as a junior and attended a Junior World Championships in Imst, Austria, in 2001.  After she aged out of juniors she quit competing to focus on climbing outdoors.  After some college and a bunch of adventures, she moved to Boulder in 2004, where she eventually finished school (Bachelors in Creative Writing, Summa Cum Laude) began spending more time bouldering and less time sport climbing (though she still enjoys both).

Bruce Lee | Yosemite | CA | Melissa Strong

Jackie also began setting more competitions and set some large pro events like the Mammut Bouldering Series (with NE2C) and USAC Junior Nationals for ropes and bouldering. She is USAC Level 4 though now she mostly focuses on home events and finds running the infamous four-comp Spot Bouldering Series every year to be plenty of comp setting work.

In 2012 Jackie decided she could spend a little more time in Boulder each year and took over the Head Routesetter position at The Spot. The next year she also began working for Kilter Climbing Grips, and in early 2014 she took over the Sales Manager position for Kilter and is now part-owner of the company.

For those who don’t know, Kilter Grips are shaped by Ian Powell and poured at Aragon, meaning they are some of the best available in the world in shape and material quality. Jackie started working with Kilter because she thinks they’re awesome holds–and what better reason? For more on Kilter please check out the Kilter Grips Website.

When Jackie isn’t working at The Spot or for Kilter she’s hopefully out climbing. If not that you’ll most likely find her at home, where she writes for climbing magazines, does product reviews, works on several book projects, updates this blog, updates the Climbfind Heroes blog, updates the Team ABC Boulder blog, updates 8a.nu, bakes cookies, and does yard work. She also dabbles in video editing and is trying to learn to take a decent photograph, but thus far she’s relying on luck.

Soul Slinger Right | Buttermilks | Bishop | CA

Comp Setting Highlights

JCCA Nor-Cal Jr Regionals – Rocksport – Reno – NV – 2002

Sendfest I & II | The Front | SLC  Utah | 2005, 2006

Mammut Bouldering Championships | The Shiloh Inn & The Front | Salt Lake City | Utah | 2007, 2008, 2009

ABS Junior Nationals | Earth Treks | Timmonium | MD | 2007

SCS Junior Nationals | Ann Arbor | Michigan | 2007

BCS Series (3 comps) – the Boulder Rock Club – Boulder – CO – 2007

SCS Junior Nationals | Planet Granite | Sunnyvale | CA | 2008

Mammut Bouldering Championship | The Spot | 2006?

SBS I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, VIX (33 comps) – the Spot – Boulder – CO – 2005-2014

Boulder Reservoir & The Spot | May 2010

Regular Gym Setting

Reno | NV | 1999-2004

Boulder | CO | 2005 – present (with some gaps)

Boulder | Colorado | Fall 2007

A Well Bolted Yet Still Scary Outdoor Friction Slab!

Mantling on a friction slab  |  Dream Canyon  |  Colorado  |  Tino Tannenberger

You can learn more about Jackie here:

Jackie on the Chalk Talk Podcast 2014

PCI: Professional Climbers International – Jackie Hueftle

Flashed Athlete News

Meet Brand Ambassador Jackie Hueftle, Vitalyte Electrolyte Drink, Sports Nutrition Drink, Healthy Sports Drinks

E-Grips Featured Setters – E-Grips Climbing Holds

Routesetter.com » Blog Archive » Conversation With Jackie Hueftle

Urban Climber Magazine – Entourage #45 – December/January 2011

Watch her climb some boulders here:

FFA of Full Chaos in RMNP

Off Circuit in Font | Dead Point Magazine

Or read some stuff she’s written here:

Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile – Rock & Ice 2013

The Evilution of Jason Kehl – DPM 2014

Climbing Mag Leavenworth October 2009 – 279 (with Kelly Sheridan)

Dead Point Magazine -Interview with AJ – Issue 10 May-June digital edition – pages 16&17

Dead Point Magazine – Photographer Brian Sweeney

Dead Point Magazine – Phil Schaal – Issue 7 Photo/Video Annual digital edition – page 10

2009 IFSC World Cup @ Teva Mountain Games – DPM Climbing News

Beginning Bouldering ~ via Jackie Hueftle. | elephant journal

Desperately Seeking Spotter. ~ Jackie Hueftle | elephant journal

In 2010 Jackie edited an entire issue–the Women’s Issue–of Deadpoint Magazine.  Click the cover to read it:

A Few Side Projects:

Climbfind Heroes

Team ABC Boulder

Lincoln Lake Bouldering | An illustrative compilation of information about bouldering at Lincoln Lake

Other Stuff Jackie Likes:

Women’s Climbing Symposium

Contact Jackie and the rest of the setters on our Talk to us page.

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