Well, sorry to say I didn’t manage to write anything about any of the IFSCWC Bouldering events this season. It was a short but quite exciting season, and I did watch all the comps and do podcast roundups with John Blomquist of Chalk Talk Climbing Podcast. If you are interested in our rambling about the events, check out the podcast here:
John and I will probably do this next season as well and we want to talk about what you want to hear about, so let us know at firstname.lastname@example.org
Here is all our coverage of this event for 2013.
World Cup Report
Udo Neumann makes these excellent World Cup Reports from each event.
As usual Austrian Team Manager Heiko Wilhelm has come out with some spectacular images of the event. Here are some of my favorites:
A couple from qualis
To see the rest check out the Austria Climbing Team on Facebook – Austria Climbing Team
Canadian Yves Gravelle (pronounced Eve) spent some time in Boulder this summer after the World Cup. He’s planning to move back this fall, but til then he’s bouldering around his home areas. He made this short video of a few cool looking problems, but it’s not until 3.33 that you get to the business–a huge campus dyno from a volume to a sidewall. When he catches the hold Yves looks like spiderman. It is definitely worth watching, and we’ve gotta ask, how did he think of that?!
For those who are wondering what kind of crazy guy does dynos like that, here’s a little more about Yves:
Update – He’s literally just started his own company for masks and sculpture which you can check out here: Beyond This World Creation and Design
IFSC Vail World Cup 2011 Finals Rundown Problems 3 and 4 + Women’s Highlights Video. UPDATE – Men’s Highlight Video
Ok, so with another round of pictures, here is a brief rundown of problems 3 and 4. At the bottom are two highlights videos with all the finals problems.
Final finals (i.e. problem 4s)
So there it is. Everyone gave great efforts and gave the crowd a great show. For the final results post, click here: Vail IFSC World Cup Bouldering 2011 Final Results and for the rundown of problems 1 and 2 click here.
Problem 3 recap
Anna – f
Alex – f
Melissa – 3rd go
Jain – no top, no bonus
Akiyo – no top, no bonus
Angie – no top, no bonus
Kilian – f
Dmitry – f
Jonas – 3rd go
Rei – 8th go
Guillaume – no top, 3rd go bonus
Chris – no top, no bonus
Problem 4 recap
Anna – f
Alex – f
Melissa – no top, 1st go bonus
Jain – 2nd go
Akiyo – 3rd go
Angie – no top, 2nd go bonus
Kilian – f
Dmitry – f
Jonas – no top, 1st go bonus
Rei – no top, 3rd go bonus
Guillaume – no top, 2nd go bonus
Chris – no top, 4th go bonus
Finals Highlights Videos
Here are two short videos from Louder Than 11 featuring the Women’s and Men’s Finals.
I took a bunch of pictures, and over and over again my favorites were the ones of people falling. Sorry guys, everyone likes to see you succeed, but some of these expressions and body positions are priceless. Here are the best of the best, in reverse order:
12 – Last year’s winner Jonas Baumann just missing the flash of Men’s Semifinal 4
11. Second-place finisher Tsukuru Hori falling way out from the last move on Men’s Final 2
10. Winner Daniel Woods missing the last dyno on the unsent Men’s Final 3
9. Canadian strong-boy Sean McColl missing the huge last move on Men’s Semi 3
8. Alex Puccio looking for a good landing after sending Women’s Final 1
7. 2008 winner and World Cup Champion Kilian Fischuber not doing the dyno on Men’s Final 4
5. Ryan Olson taking a winger on Men’s Quali 1. He sent 2nd 3rd try.
4. Wouter Jongeneelen pretty mad about missing the end dyno of Men’s Final 3. No one stuck it.
3. Daniel Woods sliding into home off Men’s Final 4’s starting dyno
2. Francois Kaiser showing some French style off Men’s Final 3
1. Daniel Woods about to belly flop on his first fall off the Men’s Final 4 dyno
As you all know by now, Daniel eventually stuck the dyno and won the comp. The thing is, it was clear he’d won before he even got on this problem, but he took a beating anyways because he’s a good competitor and it was good sportsmanship for him to try his hardest to send the problem and give us all a show (a feat that he almost accomplished until the final foothold dropped him off just short of the last jug on his last try). Thanks Daniel! Hope you weren’t too bruised up from all of this!