Thanks to everyone who came out for the first comp of Spot Bouldering Series Season 9! Dyno Mite was a great success with a good turnout of competitors for the youth and adult sessions, a wild dyno comp with awesome jumps from all the competitors, an open final where the top 6 men and women from the main session battled it out on a single finals boulder, and a huge raffle to raise $$ for Boulder Flood Relief efforts.
Open Final Results
1. Alex Johnson 1. Carlo Traversi
2. Margo Hayes 2. Nicholas Milburn
3. Megan Mascarenas 3. Alex Manikowski
4. Nina Williams 4. Matt Lubar
5. Brooke Raboutou 5. Taylor Rose
6. Courtney Sanders 6. Garrett Gregor
See results from the redpoint sessions here: The Spot Bouldering Gym SBS 9
Next up – Psychedelia! Our famous blacklight competition and costume contest will be October 26th this year. Start planning your costume!
The 2013 SCS National Championships is over and the results are in. Hopefully you all watched the comp on live feed or, if you were in Boulder, in person. The event looked exciting, with 11 women and 9 men in finals (they needed 8 American non-National or Continental Champions in finals, so they took extra until they fulfilled that that need). The routes looked hard, but not short and bouldery like last year’s. Instead, the announcers said that the routes are supposed to be true sport style, with each move progressively a bit harder than the last.
For the men, Daniel Woods qualified in 7th and put on a fantastic performance, looking controlled and powerful throughout. It looked like he might send the route but then he fell on the top headwall. With six men left to go it was probably nerve wracking for him to wait and see how he’d end up. In the end, he dominated the field and walked away with his first SCS National Championship.
Carlo Traversi was one of the top 4 climbers in qualifiers (4 men flashed everything) and Carlo looked very strong on the finals route. He has won SCS Nationals twice (2009 and 2011) and has spent most of the last year traveling and bouldering outside. He looked good moving through the pinch, then fell trying to establish on the headwall. The performance put him just behind Daniel for 2nd place.
Noah Ridge is clearly the up-and-comer to watch, as he did well at both ABS Nationals and SCS Nationals this year. He looked like he had power to spare climbing up the route, got through the pinch, then hit the headwall and flamed out for a proud 3rd place.
Jon Cardwell and Vasya Voritnikov both looked strong through the bottom, then fell suddenly trying to stick what looked like a slopey fat-lip gaston pinch just below the lip of the headwall. Interestingly, Jon and Vasya tied for 4th in the final and had to do a superfinal (to determine who was in 4th, since 4th place makes the National Team and 5th doesn’t), and the superfinal was another lap on the final route. Vasya looked a bit tired but climbed well.
He took a kneebar rest in the middle of the route, then climbed on to the pinch he’d fallen off before. He stuck it, matched it, looked strong, then suddenly a foot slipped and he was off. Jon was next and climbed quickly and confidently through the bottom of the route.
He stuck the pinch where he’d fallen before, matched, and moved onto the headwall.
For a moment it looked like he’d finish the route, but then he fell below Daniel’s highpoint. It was still a fantastic show and impressive that both Vasya and Jon could best their previous efforts on this low-end 5.14 route with a very short rest.
In my opinion, Delaney Miller looked the strongest on the women’s final, climbing solidly through the entire route until she fell two moves from the top in a cruxy section involving a pocket that you had to hit and then rock into and cross off. Delaney hit the pocket well but got lost trying to move out of it and fell. Unlike the other competitors, Delaney didn’t even try to cop a rest on the headwall and instead just kept plugging along until she was suddenly off. A very impressive performance.
Chelsea Rude qualified in 2nd and came out looking strong. Movement is her home gym, and she certainly looked in control through the bottom section of the route. In the headwall she took a rest with both hands on two small holds on the bottom volume of the two on the headwall. The rest looked ok and Chelsea looked fairly relaxed. She went to move up to the next holds on the bottom of the next volume, flubbed it, came back down, and tried to rest again, but she looked more tired. She managed to get up to the next volume holds her next try, but then fell trying to get into the pocket.
French champion Charlotte Durif was here to win the women’s category, and win she did, as the only woman to send the women’s final. She found some kneebars in the top headwall, then after resting a bit executed a perfect dropknee and did a French blow (blowing chalk off her fingers with the relaxed detachment of an old man casually sending your project in Font on his after-work circuit) while moving to the pocket that Delaney had fallen from. From there she matched on the outside of the pocket, threw a heel-hook, crossed to the second to last hold, and easily jumped to the finish. Awesome.
In all fairness, it did sorta kinda look like she might fall here. Maybe. But she didn’t.
So Charlotte won the comp, but she’s not American, so Delaney Miller is our new National Champion! Great job Delaney. As a competitor, it seems like she’s come a long way in the last couple of years and is capable of representing the USA well on the World Circuit. Good luck to her in any international comps she attends this season!
If you want to see more, LT11 should have highlights coming and may have live broadcast replays as well. Their video page is here – LT11
We are SO PROUD of setter and coach Ian Dory, who ended up in 8th after qualis, and coach Tiffany Hensley, who is in 11th. Both will be competing in Semifinals this morning, starting at 11am (watch on live feed here!)
While you are waiting you can watch replays of the qualifiers (most women, last 1/2 of men) here – ABS14 Nationals 2013 Qualifier Replays
We would also like to give a shout out to SBS 8 competitors Megan Mascarenas (1st), Nina Wiliams (5th), Tyler Youngwerth (20th), Kati Peters (21st), and Jesse Youngwerth (22nd); and for the men Daniel Woods (tied for 2nd), Michael O’Rourke (4th), Rob D’Anastasio (5th), Matt Wilder (9th), Jon Cardwell (11th), Ben Hoberg (13th) Matty Hong (14th), and Garrett Gregor (15th) who have all made it into Semifinals.
ALSO props to our previous head setter Carlo Traversi, who qualified in 10th, and to Matt Lubar, who started out at The Spot and was on our youth team for quite a while. Lubar now climbs for Team ABC and he qualified in 21st, just out of finals. He is a regular fixture in SBS comps and did well in SBS Open Finals this year as well.
Nice job everyone!
More Info: ABS Nationals Homepage
Semi’s Live Feed (starting at 11am) – TV | Louder Than 11
Set by Carlo. Undercling, sloper gaston left, out to incut gaston right, hand-foot match cross, drop down to undercling, tricky sequence of hand bumps, up to pinch, up… When watching the earlier problems it seemed like the climbers who set them had a plan and then other climbers found other ways to do them. The hand sequence at the bottom of this problem seemed to be unskippable, and everybody did the same thing until the jump to the pinch. Everyone but Daniel even used the same foot maneuvers.
The final boulder was set by Magnus Midtbo and looked to be quite strenuous.
The second crux of men’s 5 seemed to be the last move. Nalle was the first to get here but with both feet slipping off the big teal eyeball he was unable or unwilling to move to the top and dropped off.
Daniel came next and found a slightly different solution…
This comp is cool because the competitors get to set their own problems. A very small field of 5 men and 4 women got to set their own problems and work on all of the problems yesterday. Today are finals, and each competitor gets 4 minutes per problem to try and send. They climb in rotating schedule, so they can get up to 12 minutes (women) and 16 minutes (men) rest in between climbs. If someone sends fast, the rest is shorter though. Women’s routes are in red, men’s are in teal.
The problems were set on 2 awesome looking Walltopia walls, one with a big eyeball feature in it. (above). 2 problems for girls and 2 for guys on the first wall, 2 girls and 3 guys on the second wall. The climbers climbed in order of their problems, with women climbing first and men later after they’d stripped the women’s problems. Here are the women:
And the men:
Everyone said they were tired from setting and forerunning yesterday, but they still managed to put on a great show. The live feed was excellent, the best I’ve seen in terms of feed quality, plus the graphics were good and the instant replays were instant. Very nice job on that, and it makes sense since it was apparently done by Norway’s national broadcasting organization. It’ll be good to see more high quality feeds at other climbing events in the future (we can only hope!).
Upcoming posts will lay out the women’s and men’s problems and results. UPDATE: The Problems:
Men’s 1 – ? apparently I forgot this one?
From Five Ten we have this video featuring short interviews with some athletes and some highlights:
From Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11, we have the Finals Highlights videos:
And if you are interested in watching more of the comp, these next four videos show every attempt of every competitor on each finals problem. If you watch them all in a row it is similar to watching the whole comp. For those who enjoy competitions, setting, or seeing how different pro climbers approach the same problems.