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IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2015 #1 – Toronto + CWA Dyno Comp & Stuff…

June 1, 2015 Leave a comment

Angie Payne Toronto World Cup 2015

Toronto happened last weekend and my climbing hold company Kilter was proud to be the hold sponsor. I didn’t get to watch it on time (watched it later) so no full coverage here but my friend John over at Mantle Press Media and I had a conversation about the event for his podcast Chalk Talk. You can listen to it (and find other great podcasts with a variety of climbers and industry folks) on iTunes or over at his site http://www.mantlepressmedia.com. Listen to our conversation and rewatch semis and finals here:

WCRoundupEpisodeArt-300x300

2015 Toronto Round Up

I was busy with the Climbing Wall Association Conference and Setter Showdown at Earth Treks Golden all weekend. We threw a big after party for the CWA at The Spot on Saturday and had another crazy dyno comp with tons of holds from Enix, Element, Kingdom, Nicros, Kilter, UP, Enterprises, Rock Candy, and Metolius. We’re taking some of the dynos down to make some wall space and preserve the problems we had up before cramming so many holds on that wall but don’t worry, some will stay up.

The Setter Showdown was a setting competition in Golden where 24 setters from different gyms came to test themselves in 3 rounds. When the day was over each setter had set 3 problems–two individual and one coset–on pre-assigned walls with pre-assigned holds and pre-assigned grades. The judges, who were Louie Anderson, Mike Helt, and myself, had to watch the setters and give scores for how functional and creative the problems were and how technically adept the setters were. It was a long two days and fairly difficult to judge but everyone had a good time I think and lots of friendships were formed. There should be a video coming soon and I’ll post it.

That’s all for now, sorry there aren’t more photos. Scour Facebook and I’ll post more soon.

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Stop 1 – Chongqing, China – Final Results

May 1, 2014 1 comment

Unfortunately the bouldering World Cup qualifiers are not being shown live this year, and at the tour’s first stop in China none of the event was streamed. There is now a replay of the finals though:

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Finalists

In climbing order.

Men

6. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

5. Vadim Timonov (RUS)

4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA)

3. James Kassay (AUS)

2. Jan Hojer (GER)

1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS)

Women

6. Marine Thévenet (FRA)

5. Shauna Cosxey (GBR)

4. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

3. Juliane Wurm (GER)

2. Alex Puccio (USA)

1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)

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Men’s Final 1

Jan Hojer Men's Final 1 China World Cup 2014

Jan Hojer sticking the cruxy first move on MF1.

This problem started with a one-two-three dyno that crushed souls and took Jan 800 (ok, really 14) tries to stick. Once he stuck it he went to the top. The only other male to finish the problem was Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, who did it his 3rd try.

Jan at the top.

Jan at the top.

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Women’s Final 1

The route setters indulged themselves with the right side of the wall and the volume array made up Women’s Final 1 and Men’s Final 3.

Shauna Coxsey near the top on her flash.

Shauna Coxsey near the top on her flash.

Shauna, Jule, and Akiyo came out and more or less hiked this thing. Puccio, Anna Stohr, and French climber Marine Thévenet got bonus but couldn’t get around the top. In the picture the last hold is at the top left corner of that top triangle, and apparently it was a bit hard to hold on to and work around.

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Men’s Final 2

Leftward trending triangle volumes. Yellow. This was the easiest of the men’s finals, and seemed relatively straight forward sequentially. It got 2 flashes (Dmitrii and James), 2 2nd-go sends (Jan and Jorg), and one 3rd go send (Guillaume). Vadim didn’t get bonus.

Jorg out for a walk on Men's 2.

Jorg out for a walk on Men’s 2.

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Women’s Final 2

Like the men’s cruxy first move on the first final, the women’s second final had this crazy cross-jump thing at the bottom that stood in everyone’s way. Once they stuck it, they sent.

Marine sizing up the jump.

Marine sizing up the jump. She didn’t end up sticking it.

Alex trying to stick the cross-jump.

Alex trying to stick the cross-jump. She didn’t finish this one.

Jule at the top of Women's 2.

Jule at the top of Women’s 2. She did it 4th try.

Shauna did this 5th go, Akiyo 10th go, and Anna 9th go.

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Men’s Final 3

Another cruxy party trick problem with few sends.

The counterpart to Women's 1. Dance left, jump with a leg kick to catch the left-facing volume GG is staring at here.

The counterpart to Women’s 1. Dance left, jump with a leg kick to catch the left-facing volume GG is staring at here.

Jan did it 8th go, Jorg did it 7th go, no one else even got bonus.

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Women’s Final 3

I don’t have a good shot of this one and it was the easiest women’s final and wasn’t very interesting. Pink holds that looked decent up some triangles. Everyone did it, and everyone flashed it except Marine who did it 2nd try.

Akiyo Women's 3 Final

Akiyo Women’s 3 Final

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Men’s Final 4

Balancey powerful moves up volumes, a big cross to bonus, more delicate looking moves across some jibs and small volumes, a sloping dish for the finish.

James did well on the bottom but didn't get to the bonus.

James did well on the bottom but didn’t get to the bonus. Neither did Jorg or Vadim.

Guillaume in the middle of his near-flash. Instead he fell on the last hold when he moved too quickly and swung off the not-jug. Bummer.

Guillaume in the middle of his near-flash. Instead he fell on the last hold when he moved too quickly and swung off the not-jug. He didn’t end up finishing. Bummer.

GG near the end.

GG near the end.

There was some success on this bolder though, Dmitrii flashed and Jan finished 2nd try.

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Women’s Final 4

 A couple of powerful moves right out a roof with some big underclings, then a thrutch to the bonus which only Shauna, Alex, and Akiyo stuck, then a huge move to the next blue triangle, a small jib/mantle, and the top.

Akiyo trying to figure out how to do the stopper move.

Akiyo with her right hand on bonus trying to figure out how to do the stopper move. You can see GG on the mat right after falling from the end of Men’s 4.

Alex becoming the only woman to stick this move and make the only send of Women's Final 4.

Alex becoming the only woman to stick this move and make the only send of Women’s Final 4. All three to get here tried toehooking/heelhooking but Alex quickly gave up on that and just jumped.

Alex about to mantle to the top.

Alex about to mantle to the top.

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Final Results

Women's Final Results Chonqing 2014 Men's Final Results Chonqing 2014 Women's Podium Chonqing 2014 Men's Podium Chonqing 2014

Results on IFSC Site

You can see more media on Facebook and also follow the World Cups in general via The Circuit World Cup Magazine.

Finally, here’s a picture of our setter Joel Zerr competing in qualis in China. It was his first-ever World Cup and he got 30th. Nice job Joel!!!

Joel Zerr Bouldering World Cup China by Eddie Fowkes

 

World Cup Millau – Problem 4 + Unofficial Final Results

April 6, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Problem 4

I didn’t catch the proposed grade.

Anna at the top of 4

Anna at the top of 4

Anna flashed? I thought 2nd go. Owned it though.

Katha sticks double dyno, falls moving off it. No bonus.

Jule gets up to bonus, falls on next move. Gets up again, falls again. No top.

Jule moving up off the bonus just before falling.

Jule moving up after getting bonus and just before falling.

Akiyo fell 1st go. 2nd go up to bonus, struggling with beta, bumps, tries to bump in, falls. Does it again, falls from next move. Done, no top.

Akiyo on prob 4 after grabbing bonus and bumping off it.

Akiyo on prob 4 after grabbing bonus and bumping off it.

If Shauna flashes she wins. She falls on the double dyno, not going to get gold, may get silver if she tops. If she tops 2nd go she’d tie Anna. Fell again. Now can only get silver max. Sticks the dyno 3rd go. Finishes the boulder. Top! Silver!

Shauna doing the right beta at the top.

Shauna doing the right beta at the top.

Shauna at the top!

Shauna at the top!

Puccio came out last, hiked the problem.

Alex doing the cross at the top of 4.

Alex doing the cross at the top of 4.

Alex at the top of 4.

Alex at the final hold on final 4.

Here are the UNOFFICIAL (i.e. pre appeals period) results from Millau for women:

Unofficial Results

Unofficial Results

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Men’s Problem 4

7B+/C

(but the announcer said more straightforward/easier than the last one)

Lucas came out and climbed up high, got bonus, but fell. Then he struggled.

Kilian heel hooking on the bonus hold.

Kilian heel hooking on the bonus hold.

Kilian came out strong, got bonus, fell moving up right to another volume. If he sends he wins. If not, and if someone else does, they could win. Very exciting. Kilian got back up, used a slightly better method, fell again.

Kilian using a good method to get across the volume.

Kilian using a good method to get across the volume.

Back again, does this double knee crouch thing, shifts right, grabs the top. Sends! Wins!

Kilian sending 4 and winning the comp.

Kilian sending 4 and winning the comp.

Guillaume got bonus first go. Fell above, as Kilian did, wrestling with the volumes. Didn’t finish.

Guillaume trying something different.

Guillaume trying something different.

Rustam came out next, looked good, did the problem 2nd go for his only send in Finals.

Rustam manhandling the volumes.

Rustam manhandling the volumes.

Rustam sending 4

Rustam sending 4

Jorg got very high but didn't finish.

Jorg got very high but didn’t finish.

Dmitrii got very high as well and also did not finish.

Dmitrii got very high as well and also did not finish.

UNOFFICIAL (before appeals) Men’s Results

UNOFFICIAL Results

UNOFFICIAL Results

 

Vail World Cup 2012 – Women’s Finals 3 & 4

June 6, 2012 1 comment

Because there are so many pictures I am dividing these into problem sets. This is Women’s 3 & 4. 1 & 2 and Men’s coming soon.

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Women’s Final 3

This problem involved some steep moves and sequence reading to a committing dyno. The cross under looked powerful, and grabbing two left-facing bubble wraps and jumping out left to the two huge teknik blocs was somewhat intimidating to watch. The dyno produced the correct effect of wild swings and drama for the crowd. From there it was either a long lock off (Alex), a mantle/lock-off (Shauna) or use the arete and stand up (lurch for Anna, casual heel-hook for Jule) to the finish.

Melanie on the bottom of Final 3

Alex did the cross-under quite well.

Alex Puccio mid prob 3. She couldn’t stick the dyno.

Anna stuck the dyno but couldn’t lock-off to the end so while trying to decide what to do she rested on the blocs.

Anna finally decided to use the arete and worked her way up, then lurched to the top and stuck it.

Alex Johnson about to dyno.

Alex cruised the dyno and could reach the lock off move and did it relatively easily.

Shauna using the both-hands-on-the-low-hold method to stick the swing.

Shauna tried the end, then rested, then tried it again, all without letting go.

Finally Shauna tried mantling the left hand to make the long move to the finish. It’s hard to see but if you look closely you will see that Shauna’s left hand is turned, whereas above Alex’s left hand isn’t.

It worked. She was so relieved.

Jule sticking the dyno on her second try. Look how high she is!

It took her two tries to get here, but once she did Jule casually rocked over on her heel for this last move, making it look way easier than the previous competitors had.

Problem 3 Performance:

Anna, Shauna, Alex Johnson – Flash

Jule – 2nd go (fell at dyno first go)

Alex Puccio, Mélanie – flash to bonus, no top

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Women’s Final 4

This problem had Team America written all over it. Powerful moves up a steep arete with a dynamic move to a bubble-wrap and a struggle to the finish. Alex and Alex clawed their way up it one after the other. The rest of the competitors had more trouble–with Anna Stöhr taking 5 tries to seal the deal. Shauna almost made it but was too tired in the end to do the last two moves. Jule, after leading through the comp, fell apart here and couldn’t even make it to the bonus hold.

I don’t know if Jule was too short or was too tired but she had real trouble with these bottom moves.

Melanie got here ok but couldn’t stick the jump to the half moon bubble wrap.

Alex Johnson sticking the huge swing on the move to the bubble half moon. She swung around a few times and probably should have fallen off except she wasn’t in the mood to let go so instead she magically hung on and continued up.

Shauna Coxsey also stuck this move in dramatic style, but was so tired she could not finish the problem.

Anna Stohr near the top. With right on arete, bump left to crimp on volume, left again to finish.

Alex Puccio made short work of the problem and looked the strongest on each move as she hiked her way to the flash.

Alex Johnson put on her “not letting go” face and absolutely crushed this problem.

Problem 4 Performance:

Alex Johnson – flash

Alex Puccio – flash

Anna Stohr – bonus 2nd try, top 5th try

Shauna Coxsey – flash to bonus, no top

Mélanie Sandoz – flash to bonus, no top

Juliane Wurm – no bonus, no top

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Full Women’s Final Results from IFSC – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: provisional Resultlist Final W O M E N bouldering

Full Women’s Results for entire comp – IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering

Men’s Coming Soon!

Log-Dragomer Bouldering World Cup Finals Problems Breakdown – Women’s 3 & 4

April 22, 2012 4 comments

WordPress is not working very well for me today, so I am going to post these in sets of 2 problems to minimize the chances of having to redo everything a fourth time. Here are Women’s Finals 3 and 4.

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Women’s Final 3 – “Pinky”

This problem was nicknamed Pinky because all the holds are pink. It involved a few big moves to some very dicey balance moves on what seemed to be greasy volumes. The Japanese girls climbed it easily, and Mina used some very creative beta of her own to get a send as well. Anna and Shauna were both stymied trying to grab the top of the last volume and both fell there repeatedly. Melissa had a little more trouble falling off the start move once and then falling several times trying to move from the bonus hold to the next volume.

The first move of W3 was a quite dynamic. Shauna did it easily.

Shauna also easily did the second big move to the bonus hold.

This move seemed delicate. Here Momoka keeps pulling on the volume while balancing up over her right foot.

Momoka stretching to the upper volume.

Akiyo used good balance to control the volume. Notice she flipped her left hand to help her control the stand up. The right hand seemed bad as competitors were really pinching hard to hold onto it and a few slipped off while trying to grab it or move off it.

Momoka and Akiyo both topped this problem fairly easily. Akiyo flashed and Momoka succeeded 2nd go after slipping off the last volume on her first attempt.

Mina got creative on this problem and stemmed way out right to a hold that was also on men's final 1. Though this hold may not have been intended in sequence it was not marked off so the judges let her use it. As it is, it was pretty amazing to see her stem so far out and somehow press off the bottom of the volume, then grab the top and control the release of the stem. She finished the problem 2nd go after slipping off the bottom of this volume on her first try.

Another view of the amazing stem.

If you remember we also discussed the Slovenian girls’ stemming abilities with the Boulder Lead World Cup post last fall.

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Women’s Final 4 – “Sharky”

This one was called Sharky because of the big pink shark’s fin hold in the middle of it. This hold proved to be the crux for the competitors, as most fell at least once trying to stick it, match it, or move off of it.

"Sharky" started on the blue triangle of crimps right by the W4 sign and ends at the same feature upside down at the top right of the picture. From the start climbers had to do some powerful moves through the volumes in the roof and a big move to the shark's fin. After matching the shark's fin it was a blue right facing edge (or incut?) and a big move up to the 2nd crimp triangle with a foot on the side wall.

Melissa Le Neve wrestling to match Sharky. She did, but couldn't get much further.

Melissa trying an alternate method for controlling Sharky

Akiyo tried to hold a heel hook through the big move.

Momoka Oda wasn't able to stick the long jump and hold the swing.

Mina Markovic jumped out of this stem. It looked unlikely but she stuck the dyno and continued.

Mina about to press her way to the finish.

Mina disappeared in a hug from her coaches and teammates just after her final flash.

Mina all smiles just after flashing the 4th problem and winning the comp.

Anna Stöhr was the final climber and she had some trouble with Sharky. She gestured to the crowd for support on her final attempt, and it seemed to help as she matched Sharky and moved to the next hold. However, as she tried to do the last move dynamically her foot slipped and her turn was done. She ended up in 3rd.

Click Here to see the post with final results and podium shots

Click Here to Watch all of Women’s Qualifiers

Women’s 1 & 2 and Men’s finals coming soon!

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