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Innsbruck European Boulder Championships 2015 – Men’s Qualifiers

May 14, 2015 Leave a comment

European Championship Bouldering 2015 Innsbruck Austria Jan Hojer

YES! The World Cup Bouldering season has nearly started with the European Boulder Championships in Innsbruck. Unfortunately there is no live feed but Udo & co of Stuntwerk made a nice little video of men’s qualis which you should definitely watch as it just shows one man crushing each boulder. There were two heats so there are 10 boulders total.

Rustam Gelmanov sporting a killer mullet and short shorts as he destroys qualifiers.

Rustam Gelmanov sporting a killer mullet and short shorts as he destroys qualifiers.

The Russians Dmitrii and Rustam are looking crazy strong this year. They qualified in 4th and 5th so it’s gonna be interesting to watch semis and see what their weak points are (if any) and it’s gonna be interesting to see who can beat them. From men’s quali results it seems like Gui-Gui, Adam Ondra, and newcomer (to me at least) Michael Piccolruaz from Italy definitely have a chance.

Men’s Quali Results:

1. Gui-Gui tied with Ondra tied with Michael Piccolruaz

4. Dmitrii

5. Rustam tied with Jakob Schubert

3 way tie for 7th: Alban Levier (FRA, new to me), Roands Rugens (LAT – last year he did quite well in one event) and everyone’s hero Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

10. Dave Barrans (GBR)

11. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) is back and tied with strong young Domen Skofic from Slovenia

13. Two guys I’ve never heard of, Mickael Mawem from France and Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor from Poland.

15. More newcomers to me, Stephane Hanssens from Belgium and Gregor Vezonik from Slovenia

17. Jan Hojer and Martin Stranik (CZE)

19. Mathias Conrad (GER) and Stefan Scarperi (ITA)

Don’t think they get through to semis but two of my personal favorites, Jernej Kruder and Anthony Gullsten, tied for 21st in qualis.

Also out: Jeremy Bonder in 23rd, Nicky De Leeuw (NED) in 31st tied with Lukas Ennemoser (AUT), Benjamin Blaser (SUI) in 33rd, David Firnenburg (GBR) in 40th, Klemen Becan’s little brother Jure Becan (SLO) tied for 41st with Gabri Moroni (ITA), young Brit Nathan Phillips in 47th tied with Elias Weiler (AUT), and Emiliyan Kolevski (BUL) tied for 69th with 3 other guys. That’s everyone I know on the list but there were 86 competitors total, some from countries rarely seen on the WC Circuit, so this could be a very fresh season if they keep competing.

Full Men’s General Results

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2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup #2 – Baku

May 4, 2014 3 comments

The 2nd stop of the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup was in Baku, Azerbaijan.

Rewatch the Final:

Finals Rundown

~

Women’s 1

Mina at the top of WF1

Mina at the top of WF1

Move right to that yellow jib on the bottom of the bottom visible triangle in the pic above, drop knee, cross left to top of two slopers, match right in on bottom sloper, high left foot, right hand up to bonus, high left heel, cross to volume edge, match, pop to last hold.

Mina Markovic came out first and climbed beautifully to the bonus, then fell trying to cross to the volume edge above her on her way to the final hold. Next go she got a higher, more secure heel, got the volume edge, and still struggled a bit before finally just jumping to the end.

Mina trying to figure out the end.

Mina trying to figure out the end.

Mina in position for the jump. She underclung the volume to get her left heel out so she could jump.

Mina in position for the jump. She underclung the volume to get her left heel out so she could jump.

Jump!

Jump!

This last two moves seemed to be the biggest difference in the problem, with taller girls jumping immediately and the shortest competitors (Mina and Jule) both falling. The hold seemed decent once they jumped to it.

Jule fell first go, then second go jumping to the final hold when she seemed to miss it. Meanwhile on the Men’s problem Killian flashed, and someone reset the clock, so after Jule’s second fall she had to sit around for several minutes while they figured out what was going on. As soon as she could climb again she hiked the problem and the last move looked a little desperate but she caught it.

Shauna rocking the dropknee 2nd move.

Shauna rocking the dropknee 2nd move.

In comparison, Akiyo just pulled up and moved to the last move slowly without her feet cutting til she had it. Anna and Shauna both quickly thugged through the problem.

Alex got bonus and finished the problem 2nd try.

Alex staring down the end.

Alex staring down the end.

~

 Men’s Final 1

Kokoro in the middle.

Kokoro in the middle.

Rock left and double dyno to two holds, the higher of which was the bonus. Left hand out, high right foot, right hand up to volume, perch and stab for final pocket.

Again, seemed like the shorter guys suffered a bit more. The first move was sort of a one-two dyno to two holds on the arete. First out, Kokoro Fujii took eight tries to do the first move, but once he did it he finished the problem just after time ran out.

Kokoro at the top.

Kokoro at the top.

French climber Jeremy Bonder took four goes. Jan Hojer hiked it, skipping a hold. Kilian fell once, then hiked it. Both the Russians went static right hand cross first, then crossed up to the bonus and matched it before continuing. Both flashed.

Dmitrii going right hand first.

Dmitrii going right hand first.

Rustam matching the jib.

Rustam matching the jib.

Rustam grabbing the volume.

Rustam grabbing the volume.

~

Women’s Final 2

Shauna matching the triangle.

Shauna matching the triangle.

Big volumes. High start, jump feet up to high left foot, rock left, match, up left again to bonus, cross to high triangle, match to get left hand on the part with the thumb catch, right thrutch to the finish off. Last move off a right foot or keeping feet out left and swing-jumping, which is what most people did for success.

Mina fell at the top and didn’t finish.

Anna flashed.

Shauna flashed with what looked like a knee scum and then a beautiful backen-heel at the top. When she got down she pointed out a loose hold to the judges.

Shauna backen-heeling to the finish.

Shauna backen-heeling to the finish.

Akiyo looked extremely uncomfortable at the top and fell off the last move after looking like she couldn’t quite get up over the right foot. Fell again somewhere or before that. Next try she moved faster at the top and grabbed the top hold to finish.

Akiyo setting up for the last move.

Akiyo setting up for the last move.

Jule flashed.

Alex hiked her way through the bottom, then moved too quickly to the last hold and just missed it. Fell there again. Fell in middle. Bummed.

Alex in the middle.

Alex in the middle.

Alex moving to the triangle.

Alex moving to the triangle. She matched it and fell moving up right to the last hold.

~

Men’s Final 2

Jeremy working through the middle.

Jeremy working through the middle.

Big circle volumes, awkward looking leftward moves with a huge left foot triangle and a slippery looking mantle at the top. Start with a hand and nearby heel up right, lower left hand and low left foot. Cross right to hold on volume. Left to the side of the volume and/or again to the left wall, swing left, move up left with big triangle feet, get highest volume, mantle to stand on it, lean over in terror to the finish.

Kokoro flashed to bonus, then fell from mantle and didn’t finish.

Jan flashed.

Jeremy got up past bonus first go, then fell trying to get up on the 2nd to highest volume. Next go matched it and fell trying to get on the highest volume for the mantle. He sat on the right foot and thrutched for it and got a good handful, but then didn’t stick and slowly slid off.

Jeremy rocking up to the bonus.

Jeremy rocking up to the bonus, trying not to slide off.

Dmitrii flashed.

Dmitrii at the top

Dmitrii at the top. His method was scary but it worked. He mantled on top of the ball and then leaned.

Kilian fell first go moving up to the highest volume (the bonus hold) when his heel slipped. Next go he used his toe and a knee scum, pulled against the no friction to get up, scored for bonus, then instead of mantling just tried to lean right to grab the finish as Jan did. He couldn’t quite reach and fell off again. Next go he did the same sequence, stood somehow a bit taller, touched the hold, threw a high left foot, crossed over and touched the finish hold with his other hand to score his top. Crazy.

Kilian in the middle.

Kilian in the middle.

Kilian topping.

Kilian topping.

Rustam fell first go on the same moves up to the highest circle volume that were giving everyone else trouble. 2nd go was the same thing. That hold looks super slippery and, as the announcers said, the shorter climbers had a real problem with those moves. Rustam fell again (I think). And again. Couldn’t get onto the volume. It looked like the bad but high right foot was the beta for establishing on that volume.

~

Women’s Final 3

Anna matching the sloper with the thumb undercling.

Anna matching the sloper with the thumb undercling. She’s riding a good right heel here.

Big volume, swing left to crimp on volume, heel, under-thumb jib on a 2nd volume, match it (where Anna is above), tiny painful looking crimps, can flip thumb to undercling, and a high foot rock up and left,  balance to match the bad finish jib.

First go Mina, probably one of the best crimpers on the planet, got to the top but couldn’t manage to do the last move off two holds that the announcer described as nothing. Next go she moved left and got her foot up before standing to those holds, then rocked left to the finish.

Mina pinching the thumb.

Mina pinching the thumb and staring down the bonus.

Mina rocking onto her foot.

Mina rocking onto her foot.

Mina on the bad holds "crimping on the Top 30 logo" as the announcers said.

Mina on the bad holds “crimping on the Top 30 logo” as the announcers said.

Anna flashed.

Anna standing up nicely.

Anna standing up nicely.

Shauna flashed.

Akiyo flashed.

Akiyo standing it up

Akiyo standing it up

Jule flashed. The wind was blowing her ponytail straight out right the whole time. must have been strange to compete like that.

Alex trying to campus to the feet. She did, and tried all 3, but none were good enough.

Alex trying to campus to the feet. She did, and tried all 3, but none were good enough.

Alex did the first couple of moves, then fell moving left. Fell on 2nd move. 3rd go hit 2nd hold, swung left heel up to get higher volume and match it, then fell trying to hit bonus. It looked like she couldn’t sit on the left heel. Next go went with right foot again like everyone else, shifted over to left toe, foot slipped as she hit the bonus and off. Didn’t score for it. Announcer said she’s trying to grab the bonus, when really it is is super slick and should just be touched as you sit on your foot before moving out left. Next go she tried to skip the high volume by campusing to the feet. She got to all of them but none was good enough and she dropped. Last go she got up high on the volume, realized that wasn’t going to work, tried to bump back down and fell. No bonus.

~

Men’s Final 3

Jeremy trying to get set for the last move.

Jeremy trying to get set for the last move.

Jumpy first move (at least for shorter competitors) to two flat triangles put together to make sort of a space ship looking thing. Left side is better. Match and float feet right to clamp volume. Shuffle hands right. Stand into undercling triangle volume, feet up on space ship, balancy in control reach to top, which is a bad jib on a volume on top of the wall–kinda cool.

Kokoro kept jumping to the middle and had trouble sticking it. No bonus. It looked like he might have been able to jump to the left side like Jeremy did and it would have been easier to stick.

Jan staticing the first move.

Jan staticing the first move.

Jan nearly staticed but couldn’t quite reach. Did a tiny jump to stick the space ship, kept getting thwarted on the next move. Next goes he basically staticed the first move, then lifted off and moved feet right to clamp feet on a volume and match the space ship. From there he looked very scrunched and fell several times, sort of trying to mantle but unable to move up from there. He did get the bonus point for grabbing the undercling triangle on his first go.

Jan matching feet with a bicycle.

Jan matching feet with a bicycle.

Jeremy fell, fell, stuck but fell rocking his feet over. Stuck, matched, feet over, after some finagling managed to stand into the bonus hold (triangle volume undercling on a triangle volume) tried to stand up to the last move to the top but shot straight out backwards instead.

Jeremy pressing into the undercling.

Jeremy pressing into the undercling.

Did beginning again, fell on undercling. Last go managed to get a knee jammed in, had a good guppy right hand on the top volume and underling right, twisted towards the top several times trying to generate but it the end it was too awkward and he fell. If he had finished this still would have been in 5th.

Dmitrii flashed the problem easily.

Dmitrii making the match at the top of 4.

Dmitrii making the match at the top of 4.

Kilian fell on the first move. He fell again after matching the space ship. Seems like hitting it in the middle is bad because you swing off. Establishing on the left, then shifting right, seems to be working better. Also, right and middle of the space ship are in the sun. Fell again. Fell again. No bonus.

Rustam hiked the problem on his first try.

Rustam matching the top of 4.

Rustam matching the top of 4. Under toe for security so he doesn’t swing out as he matches.

~

Women’s 4

Mina at the start.

Mina at the start.

Volume blocked by another volume for the start, move right to big teardrop volume, foot jam, delicate match on top of it (apparently very slippery), rock up left to two jibs on a volume, one is bonus. Rock left on bad foot to gaston, press into it and match, up right cross to another volume at the top. The start feet are both out right so the sequence was put left foot on, right foot on (now you are established off the ground) then flag left foot out left to do the move. This caused some problems, as you will see below.

Mina pressing into the gaston.

Mina pressing into the gaston. She fell here her first try.

Mina’s 2nd go she got into the gaston and pressed to match it but couldn’t get to the last hold. She wanted to go left but knew she couldn’t reach. Finally she moved up right hand and got it, but was stuck under the volume and fell trying to get a foot up so she could match.

Anna went left to the last hold (like Mina kept trying to do but couldn’t reach) and flashed easily.

Shauna has to flash. She gets on, does 1st move, matches bonus, drops. What? The judge called her off saying she didn’t start with her feet properly. She gets back on, does the proper foot touch, and finishes the boulder left hand first. Does it count as a flash? If so, the announcer says, she wins. UPDATE: Announcer says she was called down for dabbing (touching the mat with her foot as she pulled off on her 1st attempt) so it counts as a try and puts her in 2nd. That is crushing for Shauna. This would have been her first gold. Announcer says she did contest it when she got pulled off, said she didn’t dab, so we’ll see what happens if they do a video check or something. UPDATE 2: In the only angle for the live feed they replayed Shauna’s start and though you can’t see her foot she does seem to dab and pull back up. It also looked like someone (not the judges) called for the judges to call her off. The whole thing is less than ideal. UPDATE 3: A kind commenter (see below) has said that most likely an IFSC Judge was helping the problem judges as they were local and inexperienced. Makes sense, and thanks to him for the clarification. Also, it’s important to note here that there was a lot of complaining about the live feed in the live comment box and on Facebook, but those of us who watch these should be grateful there was any video at all as it seems the conditions were challenging on many fronts. The weather alone looked like it was exhausting. Thanks to the IFSC, Top 30, and everyone else for making the feed happen.

Akiyo flashes pretty easily. Left hand static to finish like Anna and Shauna.

Akiyo staticing the last move.

Akiyo staticing the last move.

Jule gets called off her first go same as Shauna. Next go she gets to the top. The last move looks quite reachy for her but she gets it 1st go with her right hand like Mina, but instead of falling works her right hand up til she can let go with her feet and left hand and hang match. She did this by pushing up against the right foot and riding the left hand undercling until her right hand was draped over the top, more positive angle on the volume.

Jule at the top.

Jule at the top. Her right hand is high enough she can let go with her left.

Alex unfortunately is in last already, which much be terrible for her as she’s been in first for the whole comp so far, flashing all the qualis and winning semis as well. She looks done already here and falls on the first move of the problem. Next go she gets to bonus and then falls reaching for the gaston. Next go she does 1st move and falls matching the volume. Next go she’s back up to bonus, chalks on the volume, gets up to last move as time runs out, falls jumping right to last hold. Ends up in 6th. For some reason the IFSC site (and the result below) hasn’t yet given her credit for the 4th problem bonus, but she definitely grabbed it so I’m not sure what’s up with that.

Alex on bonus setting up for the rock left.

Alex camping out on bonus and setting up for the rock left. She got the gaston, pressed into it, and fell off the last move.

~

Men’s 4

Kilian trying to hold the spin out on MF4.

Kilian trying to hold the spin out on MF4.

Hard pull on to establish on a volume, stand up into a corner roof, lean way out to a bonus, cross to a volume with a thumb catch, two triangle volumes, bad volume final hold so you have to keep your feet on and stay in.

Kokoro didn’t get scored for bonus (or it wasn’t yet updated) but he seems to have grabbed it.

So close! May not have held it long enough to be scored for it.

So close! Kokoro must not have held the bonus long enough to be scored for it.

Jan got up nicely through the bonus on his 2nd try, got out around the corner, then slipped grabbing the next volume. He rested a long time, then got up into the roof and slipped just as the timer ran out. Bummer.

Pressing into the roof.

Pressing into the roof.

Ugh.

Ugh.

Jan getting bonus.

Jan getting bonus.

Jan coming around the corner off the bonus.

Jan coming around the corner off the bonus.

Jan trying a heel for the next move.

Jan trying a heel for the next move. He went up right but fell off.

Jeremy is pressing up into the corner by rocking over the left foot and pressing right hand up (instead of matching like Jan did).

Jeremy going right only into the roof.

Jeremy going right only into the roof.

Like Shauna on the women’s problem, Jeremy also seems to be having some issue with the judges, maybe a loose hold that the setter is reinforcing with another screw. Jeremy gets a little more rest out of it. Now Jeremy is back on but he can’t seem to hold the 2nd hold. He’s it it several times right hand as a gaston and fell. Jan hit it left and matched, which looked better. He finally gets it, then falls rocking on left foot. The buzzer buzzed but who knows how much time he has left–the technical threw the clock off again, at least on the live feed. Back on, does the 2nd move better, rocks over the foot, stands into the corner right hand again, may have finally hit time out, falls out of the corner right after. No bonus.

Dmitrii climbs through the bottom crossing left to the 2nd hold and matching like Jan, gets bonus, comes out around corner, campuses left to triangles (instead of right like Jan tried) brings his right hand up to match in compression but falls off instead. Next go campuses up left again, slows down to control it which he does, but falls trying to stick the right hand when he grabs the other triangle. Next go falls in the roof, looks like he says it’s tweaky on his arm and he’s done.

Dmitrii held this swing but couldn't get right hand up.

Dmitrii held this swing but couldn’t get right hand up.

Kilian got through the bottom, then, like Dmitrii, struggled to hold the left triangle and then, unlike Dmitrii, fell before even trying to move his right hand. It doesn’t make a difference though, both got bonus first go. Next go falls in the same place but a little faster. Last go as time runs out he’s back on, the rock over and press into the corner looks uncomfortable, he falls out of the roof.

Rustam getting bonus on MF4

Rustam getting bonus on MF4

If Rustam flashes he will get gold. He falls off trying to rock up under the roof. Next go gets bonus, falls. Ends up in 3rd.

No one sends the boulder.

~

Final Results

Men

Men's Podium: Dmitrii Sharfutdinov 1st, Jan Hojer 2nd, Rustam Gelmanov 3rd

Men’s Podium: Dmitrii Sharfutdinov 1st, Jan Hojer 2nd, Rustam Gelmanov 3rd

Men's Final Results Baku World Cup 2014

Full Men’s Results

~

Women

Women's Podium: Anna Stöhr (1st) Akiyo Noguchi (2nd) Shauna Coxsey (3rd)

Women’s Podium: Anna Stöhr 1st, Akiyo Noguchi 2nd, Shauna Coxsey 3rd

Women's Final Results Bouldering World Cup Baku 2014

Full Women’s Results

~

In the post-comp interviews both Anna and Shauna are quite gracious about the result. Anna says it isn’t ideal as they’d prefer to battle it out but some times you get lucky and that day she got lucky. Shauna says she did her best and she feels good about her performance.

~

Next comp is in Grindelwald, Switzerland, next weekend May 10th and 11th.

2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Stop 1 – Chongqing, China – Final Results

May 1, 2014 1 comment

Unfortunately the bouldering World Cup qualifiers are not being shown live this year, and at the tour’s first stop in China none of the event was streamed. There is now a replay of the finals though:

~

Finalists

In climbing order.

Men

6. Jorg Verhoeven (NED)

5. Vadim Timonov (RUS)

4. Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA)

3. James Kassay (AUS)

2. Jan Hojer (GER)

1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (RUS)

Women

6. Marine Thévenet (FRA)

5. Shauna Cosxey (GBR)

4. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)

3. Juliane Wurm (GER)

2. Alex Puccio (USA)

1. Anna Stöhr (AUT)

~

Men’s Final 1

Jan Hojer Men's Final 1 China World Cup 2014

Jan Hojer sticking the cruxy first move on MF1.

This problem started with a one-two-three dyno that crushed souls and took Jan 800 (ok, really 14) tries to stick. Once he stuck it he went to the top. The only other male to finish the problem was Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, who did it his 3rd try.

Jan at the top.

Jan at the top.

~

Women’s Final 1

The route setters indulged themselves with the right side of the wall and the volume array made up Women’s Final 1 and Men’s Final 3.

Shauna Coxsey near the top on her flash.

Shauna Coxsey near the top on her flash.

Shauna, Jule, and Akiyo came out and more or less hiked this thing. Puccio, Anna Stohr, and French climber Marine Thévenet got bonus but couldn’t get around the top. In the picture the last hold is at the top left corner of that top triangle, and apparently it was a bit hard to hold on to and work around.

~

Men’s Final 2

Leftward trending triangle volumes. Yellow. This was the easiest of the men’s finals, and seemed relatively straight forward sequentially. It got 2 flashes (Dmitrii and James), 2 2nd-go sends (Jan and Jorg), and one 3rd go send (Guillaume). Vadim didn’t get bonus.

Jorg out for a walk on Men's 2.

Jorg out for a walk on Men’s 2.

~

Women’s Final 2

Like the men’s cruxy first move on the first final, the women’s second final had this crazy cross-jump thing at the bottom that stood in everyone’s way. Once they stuck it, they sent.

Marine sizing up the jump.

Marine sizing up the jump. She didn’t end up sticking it.

Alex trying to stick the cross-jump.

Alex trying to stick the cross-jump. She didn’t finish this one.

Jule at the top of Women's 2.

Jule at the top of Women’s 2. She did it 4th try.

Shauna did this 5th go, Akiyo 10th go, and Anna 9th go.

~

Men’s Final 3

Another cruxy party trick problem with few sends.

The counterpart to Women's 1. Dance left, jump with a leg kick to catch the left-facing volume GG is staring at here.

The counterpart to Women’s 1. Dance left, jump with a leg kick to catch the left-facing volume GG is staring at here.

Jan did it 8th go, Jorg did it 7th go, no one else even got bonus.

~

Women’s Final 3

I don’t have a good shot of this one and it was the easiest women’s final and wasn’t very interesting. Pink holds that looked decent up some triangles. Everyone did it, and everyone flashed it except Marine who did it 2nd try.

Akiyo Women's 3 Final

Akiyo Women’s 3 Final

~

Men’s Final 4

Balancey powerful moves up volumes, a big cross to bonus, more delicate looking moves across some jibs and small volumes, a sloping dish for the finish.

James did well on the bottom but didn't get to the bonus.

James did well on the bottom but didn’t get to the bonus. Neither did Jorg or Vadim.

Guillaume in the middle of his near-flash. Instead he fell on the last hold when he moved too quickly and swung off the not-jug. Bummer.

Guillaume in the middle of his near-flash. Instead he fell on the last hold when he moved too quickly and swung off the not-jug. He didn’t end up finishing. Bummer.

GG near the end.

GG near the end.

There was some success on this bolder though, Dmitrii flashed and Jan finished 2nd try.

~

Women’s Final 4

 A couple of powerful moves right out a roof with some big underclings, then a thrutch to the bonus which only Shauna, Alex, and Akiyo stuck, then a huge move to the next blue triangle, a small jib/mantle, and the top.

Akiyo trying to figure out how to do the stopper move.

Akiyo with her right hand on bonus trying to figure out how to do the stopper move. You can see GG on the mat right after falling from the end of Men’s 4.

Alex becoming the only woman to stick this move and make the only send of Women's Final 4.

Alex becoming the only woman to stick this move and make the only send of Women’s Final 4. All three to get here tried toehooking/heelhooking but Alex quickly gave up on that and just jumped.

Alex about to mantle to the top.

Alex about to mantle to the top.

~

Final Results

Women's Final Results Chonqing 2014 Men's Final Results Chonqing 2014 Women's Podium Chonqing 2014 Men's Podium Chonqing 2014

Results on IFSC Site

You can see more media on Facebook and also follow the World Cups in general via The Circuit World Cup Magazine.

Finally, here’s a picture of our setter Joel Zerr competing in qualis in China. It was his first-ever World Cup and he got 30th. Nice job Joel!!!

Joel Zerr Bouldering World Cup China by Eddie Fowkes

 

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #5 – Innsbruck – Men’s Finals UPDATED

May 18, 2013 3 comments

Men’s 1

Dyno 1 arm is the show move. Stand up on start holds, jump left, basically campus to top. Everyone did it easily.

Kilian styling the dyno

Kilian styling the dyno

Dima on the bottom of 1

Dima on the bottom of 1

Jan at the top of Men's 1

Jan at the top of 1

~

Men’s 2

Lots of volumes up an overhanging wall. Start with right pinch and left on arete. Move through volumes, stand up to an undercling triangle volume, grab another triangle volume, match, done.

GG on the bottom of 2

GG on the bottom of 2

Dmitrii

Dmitrii low middle on 2

Jan pushing up into the volume.

Jan pushing up into the undercling volume.

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Kili using alternative beta to get up on the undercling

Jorg at the top of 2

Jorg at the top of 2

Sean matching the finish.

Sean matching the finish.

Jan Hojer beasted it right off (apparently actually 2nd go, he slipped 1st go). Dimitrii flashed. GG flashed. Kilian flashed. Jorg flashed too. Sean flashed.

~

Men’s 3

Mantle, volumes, undercling left, drive by right hand to red triangle out left. Match onto bonus hold jib, move to jib on upper triangle, lean over to last hold.

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Dmitrii on the bottom of 3

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

Kilian getting set up for the drive by

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

GG doing the drive-by on the middle of 3

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the upper part of the volume.

Kilian about to fall off trying to stick the bonus hold jib on the upper part of the volume.

Sean having the same problem

Sean having the same problem. He looks good, but he doesn’t stay on.

Dmitrii matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii did. Here he is matching the jib to move to the last hold.

Dmitrii at the top of 3

Dmitrii sticking the top of 3

Jan Hojer came out and flashed easily. Commentators are speculating the problems are too easy.

Dima started strong, climbed most of the way up, fell, fell again. Sent.

GG came out, fell on drive by. Again. Again.

Kili fell off. Again. Apparently you fall doing the move after the drive by if you don’t keep your right foot on the large yellow orb. He does the drive-by, bumps right hand off, jumps and left hand hamhock, slides off trying to stick it. Last go, same thing. Bummer.

Jorg had much the same experience as Kilian. Stuck the cross. Couldn’t stick the match.

Sean came out last. Looked strong on bottom and drive-by, fell like Jorg and Kili trying to stick the match on the volume. They do a nice jump to the bonus hold/jib on the volume, but all seemed to slip off pulling up to stick it. Sean didn’t send either, and so now the field has flipped.

Results after Men’s 3

The people who are tied below are broken up by countbacks to semis.

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.14.09 PM (2)

~

Men’s Final 4

This problem looked pretty straightforward. Thugging on volumes up a steep wall.

Jan Hojer came out first and if he flashed he’d win. He flashed. climbed it quickly, he’d win. Apparently he fell from the start once before sending, but it didn’t show on the live feed. When he got to the top he knew he’d won, and he looked ecstatic. He wins! First gold in a Bouldering World Cup for Jan.

Jan the Champion

Jan the Champion

Dmitrii sent it 2nd go. This should keep him in silver.

Dima sending Men's 4

Dima sending Men’s 4

GG sent as well but not fast enough. He knows it, and he’s pretty disappointed as he waves to the crowd and walks off. Jorg sent, not sure how quickly. Sean sent as well but not fast enough. Kili flashed and he gets bronze.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

Guillaume at the end of 4.

~

Men’s Final Results

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 2.10.18 PM

Screen Shot 2013-05-18 at 1.44.29 PM (2)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (2) Jan Hojer (1) and Kilian Fischhuber (3)

2012 IFSC World Championships – Men’s Bouldering

September 15, 2012 Leave a comment

Kilian (2nd), Dmitrii (1st), Rustam (3rd)

The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event.  Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.

Here are some random shots and info from finals:

Men’s 1

Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.

Men’s 2

Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.

Kilian flashing Men’s 2

Jan Hojer on Men’s 2. Looked good, then fell apart a second later.

Men’s 3

Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.

Rei Sugimoto struggling with the transition on Men’s 3

Rustam on the start mantle of Men’s 3

Rustam working his way around this cruxy corner on Men’s 3. These moves really shut the climbers down.

Rustam on Men’s 3. Not a great shot but LOOK AT HIS LEFT ARM!

Dmitrii leaning right…

Dmitrii leaned, leaned, and then sort of deadpointed right hand to the bonus hold while flipping left. He caught himself and sent for the flash.

Sean suffered here and didn’t make it to bonus.

Killian took a different tactic, but it still didn’t work.

Jan Hojer also suffered on this one.

Men’s 4

This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.

Rei flashed to bonus, then fell, then got back on and sent.

Rustam manhandling the volume.

Dmitrii sticking the move out left the same way Rustam did. This seemed to be the hardest move on the problem.

Sean McColl and wow look at the walls!

Sean after sending. He knew he didn’t win but he stayed a good sport for the crowd. Which is huge. Look at that crowd!

Kilian

Kilian finishing.

Jan Hojer and…crowd!

Jan

The End

All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )

Men’s Bouldering Finalists

Wow.

Dmitrii and his girlfriend

The Walls

Final Results

Next Up

Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.

Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays.  Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012

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