Women’s Problem 3
Anna is falling off. Mantling up a wall on volumes. Got the bonus (2nd or 3rd go?). Finished the boulder.
Katha starts to mantle but falls. Falls again. Starts to mantle, grabs the tiny handhold mid-wall to help the mantle, but can’t get her left foot up to stand. Jumped to the bonus but didn’t stick it. Done.
Jule flashed. Yeah!
Akiyo did another ridiculous stem/mantle. She may have the most flexible hips ever. The female announcer is trying to describe it and failing. Akiyo makes it to bonus, does a ridiculous stand up, jumps to the finish. Flashes!
Shauna came out next. She looked good on the mantle, didn’t quite hit the undercling out right exactly right, but it didn’t seem to matter. Sized up the last move, jumped big, got it (but it looked like barely!). Great!
Alex struggled to get up on the mantle and fell off at least twice. Third go looked better, she touched bonus before falling.
Men’s Problem 3
“the hardest” 7b+ (V8, like prob 2) but harder the head setter thinks
Lucas is falling off. First move a deadpoint to a gaston of a volume. Sticks it and messes around on volumes but can’t get anywhere. Sort of gets his right foot up, then falls. Done.
Kilian is in first as of now, with 2 tops. Falls from the start repeatedly. Can’t seem to get the first move, or even bonus. Done.
Guillaume had a similar experience. Eventually changed his shoes. Stuck the first move, got on the volumes, touched bonus, foot out right, fell. Fell more. Stuck first move again and fell more. Done.
Rustam Gelmanov didn’t do the first move.
Jorg eventually did do the first, but fell trying to control the bonus. Then he quit and walked off with 19 seconds left.
Dmitrii was last. He actually figured out the bottom of the problem, got bonus, got his foot out right, got his body over, and fell moving up to the last two holds. Unfortunately he’s scored the same as everyone else who got bonus, so still in 5th.
I took a bunch of pictures, and over and over again my favorites were the ones of people falling. Sorry guys, everyone likes to see you succeed, but some of these expressions and body positions are priceless. Here are the best of the best, in reverse order:
12 – Last year’s winner Jonas Baumann just missing the flash of Men’s Semifinal 4
11. Second-place finisher Tsukuru Hori falling way out from the last move on Men’s Final 2
10. Winner Daniel Woods missing the last dyno on the unsent Men’s Final 3
9. Canadian strong-boy Sean McColl missing the huge last move on Men’s Semi 3
8. Alex Puccio looking for a good landing after sending Women’s Final 1
7. 2008 winner and World Cup Champion Kilian Fischuber not doing the dyno on Men’s Final 4
5. Ryan Olson taking a winger on Men’s Quali 1. He sent 2nd 3rd try.
4. Wouter Jongeneelen pretty mad about missing the end dyno of Men’s Final 3. No one stuck it.
3. Daniel Woods sliding into home off Men’s Final 4’s starting dyno
2. Francois Kaiser showing some French style off Men’s Final 3
1. Daniel Woods about to belly flop on his first fall off the Men’s Final 4 dyno
As you all know by now, Daniel eventually stuck the dyno and won the comp. The thing is, it was clear he’d won before he even got on this problem, but he took a beating anyways because he’s a good competitor and it was good sportsmanship for him to try his hardest to send the problem and give us all a show (a feat that he almost accomplished until the final foothold dropped him off just short of the last jug on his last try). Thanks Daniel! Hope you weren’t too bruised up from all of this!