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World Cup Millau – Problem 3

April 6, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Problem 3

7a+

Anna Stohr

Anna is falling off. Mantling up a wall on volumes. Got the bonus (2nd or 3rd go?). Finished the boulder.

Katha starts to mantle but falls. Falls again. Starts to mantle, grabs the tiny handhold mid-wall to help the mantle, but can’t get her left foot up to stand. Jumped to the bonus but didn’t stick it. Done.

Katha Saurwein

Jule flashed. Yeah!

Jule Wurm

Tiny thumbercling to help with the mantle

Standing up to bonus.

Standing up to bonus.

Jule at the top!

Jule at the top!

Akiyo did another ridiculous stem/mantle. She may have the most flexible hips ever. The female announcer is trying to describe it and failing. Akiyo makes it to bonus, does a ridiculous stand up, jumps to the finish. Flashes!

Akiyo Noguchi

Akiyo stepped up for the last move instead of jumping off the lower left foot.

Akiyo stepped up for the last move instead of jumping off the lower left foot.

Akiyo sticks!

Akiyo sticks!

Shauna came out next. She looked good on the mantle, didn’t quite hit the undercling out right exactly right, but it didn’t seem to matter. Sized up the last move, jumped big, got it (but it looked like barely!). Great!

Shauna at the start.

Shauna at the start.

Shauna in the mantle

Shauna standing it up

Shauna nearly missed hitting this well, but she didn't look too stressed about it.

Shauna nearly missed hitting this well, but she didn’t look too stressed about it.

Alex struggled to get up on the mantle and fell off at least twice. Third go looked better, she touched bonus before falling.

Alex on her first go.

Alex on her first go.

Alex figured out the mantle--it was pretty technical for her.

Alex figured out the mantle–it was pretty technical for her.

Alex got mad and made it work even though it looked like she might fall. Good power Alex!

Alex got mad and made it work even though it looked like she might fall. Good power Alex!

~

Men’s Problem 3

“the hardest” 7b+ (V8, like prob 2) but harder the head setter thinks

Kilian Fischhuber

Lucas is falling off. First move a deadpoint to a gaston of a volume. Sticks it and messes around on volumes but can’t get anywhere. Sort of gets his right foot up, then falls. Done.

Kilian is in first as of now, with 2 tops. Falls from the start repeatedly. Can’t seem to get the first move, or even bonus. Done.

Guillaume had a similar experience. Eventually changed his shoes. Stuck the first move, got on the volumes, touched bonus, foot out right, fell. Fell more. Stuck first move again and fell more. Done.

Rustam Gelmanov didn’t do the first move.

Jorg eventually did do the first, but fell trying to control the bonus. Then he quit and walked off with 19 seconds left.

Dmitrii was last. He actually figured out the bottom of the problem, got bonus, got his foot out right, got his body over, and fell moving up to the last two holds. Unfortunately he’s scored the same as everyone else who got bonus, so still in 5th.

Dmitrii using another method.

Dmitrii using another method.

 

Vail 2010 Top Falls

June 8, 2010 5 comments

I took a bunch of pictures, and over and over again my favorites were the ones of people falling.  Sorry guys, everyone likes to see you succeed, but some of these expressions and body positions are priceless.  Here are the best of the best, in reverse order:

12 – Last year’s winner Jonas Baumann just missing the flash of Men’s Semifinal 4

Jonas Baumann | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

11. Second-place finisher Tsukuru Hori falling way out from the last move on Men’s Final 2

Tsukuru Hori | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

10. Winner Daniel Woods missing the last dyno on the unsent Men’s Final 3

Daniel Woods | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

9. Canadian strong-boy Sean McColl missing the huge last move on Men’s Semi 3

Sean McColl | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

8. Alex Puccio looking for a good landing after sending Women’s Final 1

Alex Puccio | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

7. 2008 winner and World Cup Champion Kilian Fischuber not doing the dyno on Men’s Final 4

Kilian Fischuber | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

6. Again!

Kilian Fischuber | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

5. Ryan Olson taking a winger on Men’s Quali 1.  He sent 2nd 3rd try.

Ryan Olson | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

4. Wouter Jongeneelen pretty mad about missing the end dyno of Men’s Final 3. No one stuck it.

Wouter Jongeneelen | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

3. Daniel Woods sliding into home off Men’s Final 4′s starting dyno

Daniel Woods | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

2. Francois Kaiser showing some French style off Men’s Final 3

Francois Kaiser | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

1. Daniel Woods about to belly flop on his first fall off the Men’s Final 4 dyno

Daniel Woods | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

Daniel Woods | Vail 2010 | Jackie Hueftle

ouch!!!

As you all know by now, Daniel eventually stuck the dyno and won the comp.  The thing is, it was clear he’d won before he even got on this problem, but he took a beating anyways because he’s a good competitor and it was good sportsmanship for him to try his hardest to send the problem and give us all a show (a feat that he almost accomplished until the final foothold dropped him off just short of the last jug on his last try).  Thanks Daniel!  Hope you weren’t too bruised up from all of this!

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