Posts Tagged ‘Rei Sugimoto’

IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final Results + Overall Season Results

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Finals Replay


Munich Final Results

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women's Podium in Munich.

Alex Puccio (Silver) Anna Stöhr (Gold) and Shauna Coxsey (Bronze) on the Women’s Podium in Munich.

Munich Women's Final Scores

Munich Women’s Final Scores

Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!


Munich Men’s Final Results

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

Rei Sugimoto in Gold, Thomas Tauporn in Silver, Rustam Gelmanov Bronze.

This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.

Rei Sugimoto

Winner Rei Sugimoto

Men's Final Scores

Men’s Final Scores


Season Overall Podiums

Women's Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Women’s Overall: Anna, Akiyo, Alex

Men's Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean

Men’s Overall: Dmitrii, Jakob, Sean


IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2013 #8 – Munich – Final 4

August 25, 2013 1 comment

Women’s Final 4

Dinara. Yes, it's blurry, but wow.

Dinara. Yes, it’s blurry, but wow.

Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4’ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.

Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara going up to the volumes

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Dinara trying to get her head in.

Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Petra Klingler trying the arm bar

Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.

Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Katha pressing into the corner at the top of final 4

Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!

Alex went right hand up but it worked out.

Alex went right hand up the first time. She looked strong but fell.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex using the correct method.

Alex mantling.

Alex mantling.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Backen-foot and lean across to the finish jib.

Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna made this look easy.

Shauna pressing with style.

Shauna pressing with style.


Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!

Anna finishing problem 4

Anna finishing problem 4


Men’s Final 4

Rustam going with the swing on Men's Final 4

Rustam going with the swing at the start on Men’s Final 4

Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.

Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.

Sacha Amma trying Men's Final 4

Sacha Amma trying to go backwards on Men’s Final 4

Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.

Rei staring down the arete hold at the top of MF4

Rei staring down the arete hold at the mid top of MF4

Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

Rei trying to commit to the last move.

He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.

Rei using the elbow

Rei using the elbow

It worked, he stuck the finish!

Rei sending Men's Final 4

Rei just after sending Men’s Final 4

Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo feet first.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo turning around.

Mahaylo looking very strong.

Mahaylo looking very strong on the one arm.

Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.

Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Rustam crimping gaston left hand on the wall panel in his chest, left foot first to the finish. He leaned over and matched it for the win.

Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume.

Dmitrii struggling with the volume. He basically jumped and held the swing to the little jib, and it seemed like he was just too pumped to power to the bonus so he was trying to get there via other means, but he wasn’t able to make it work.

Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.

Rei wins!

IFSC Bouldering World Cup #8 – Munich – Finals Problems 1 & 2

August 25, 2013 1 comment
Petra Klinger of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Petra Klingler of Switzerland not quite finishing WF1

Women’s Final 1

This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.

Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus

Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Melanie Sandoz – flash

Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top

Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish

Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint

Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1.

Anna Stöhr trying to figure out the top of WF1. She slipped right after this.

After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.


Men’s Final 1

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did.

Sachi Amma of Japan showing off the only 2 moves of MF1 that anyone did. No one could stick the jump to the red eyebrow out right. Everything just looked too slippery.

Sachi Amma – 0

Rei Sugimoto – 0

Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0

Rustam Gelmanov – 0

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0

Thomas Tauporn – 0


Women’s Final 2

Dinara flashing WF2

Dinara flashing WF2 with her own method.

The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.

Dinara – flash

Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Petra heel hooking to the top.

Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.

Katha – eventual send

Alex – flash

Shauna – flash

Anna – flash


Men’s Final 2

Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.

Sachi – bonus

Rei – scroll down:

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei at the start of MF2

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei Sugimoto working into the top volume.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn't fall.

Rei pressing into the volume. He moved slowly and precisely so he wouldn’t fall.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei clinging to the volume as he reaches left for the final hold.

Rei makes the first top in the men's round.

Rei makes the first top in the men’s round.

Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?

Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.

Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.

Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.

Rei is now in 3rd.




2012 IFSC World Championships – Men’s Bouldering

September 15, 2012 Leave a comment

Kilian (2nd), Dmitrii (1st), Rustam (3rd)

The stage, the crowd, and the walls all looked incredible at this event.  Dmitrii is World Champion, Kilian won silver, and Rustam Bronze. The other three finalists were Canada’s Sean McColl, Germany’s Jan Hojer, and Japan’s Rei Sugimoto.

Here are some random shots and info from finals:

Men’s 1

Everybody flashed but Dmitrii, who flashed to bonus, then fell 3 times before getting top on his 4th go. This put him in last going into problem 2.

Men’s 2

Killian flashed, putting him in the lead. Sean got bonus and sent 2nd go, putting him in 2nd. If you get to the top without touching bonus you still get bonus points. Dmitrii got bonus and finished the problem 3rd go, giving him 1 send to match everyone else’s performance on men’s 1. Jan flashed to bonus but didn’t finish the problem. Rei and Rustam didn’t even get bonus.

Kilian flashing Men’s 2

Jan Hojer on Men’s 2. Looked good, then fell apart a second later.

Men’s 3

Mantle to difficult movement out right to bonus. Dmitrii took a brave tactic and flashed. Rustam got bonus and sent 2nd go. Nobody else really got anywhere, all falling on the rightward move to the bonus hold.

Rei Sugimoto struggling with the transition on Men’s 3

Rustam on the start mantle of Men’s 3

Rustam working his way around this cruxy corner on Men’s 3. These moves really shut the climbers down.

Rustam on Men’s 3. Not a great shot but LOOK AT HIS LEFT ARM!

Dmitrii leaning right…

Dmitrii leaned, leaned, and then sort of deadpointed right hand to the bonus hold while flipping left. He caught himself and sent for the flash.

Sean suffered here and didn’t make it to bonus.

Killian took a different tactic, but it still didn’t work.

Jan Hojer also suffered on this one.

Men’s 4

This problem was on the far right wall and was supposed to be fairly easy compared to the previous two. It certainly seemed to be the case as everyone sent, Dmitrii, Kilian, Rustam, and Jan flashing, Sean getting bonsus and send 2nd go, and Rei flashing to bonus but then falling and also sending 2nd go.

Rei flashed to bonus, then fell, then got back on and sent.

Rustam manhandling the volume.

Dmitrii sticking the move out left the same way Rustam did. This seemed to be the hardest move on the problem.

Sean McColl and wow look at the walls!

Sean after sending. He knew he didn’t win but he stayed a good sport for the crowd. Which is huge. Look at that crowd!


Kilian finishing.

Jan Hojer and…crowd!


The End

All the competitors stood for the crowd. As they were going back behind the wall, Dmitrii’s girlfriend ran in and jumped on him. It was just like a sports movie. : )

Men’s Bouldering Finalists


Dmitrii and his girlfriend

The Walls

Final Results

Next Up

Men’s paraclimbing, Blind 1 Division finals was up next and we watched 3 blind guys climb as far as they could up a 7B+ route with an assistant shouting (or using a headset and walkie talkie) to help them find their way. More on that in the next post.

Really the thing to do is to watch these live or watch the replays.  Go here: IFSC World Climbing Championships 2012

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Problems 1 & 2

April 28, 2012 2 comments

More coverage for Men’s 3 and 4, Men’s podiums, all Women’s finals and podiums, semifinals, and qualifiers can be found via links at the bottom of this article.


Men’s 1

Kilian Fischhuber came out first and climbed easily to the bonus hold, then fell bumping out left on it through the sea of orange triangles.

Kilian pressed the bonus hold easily as he did the mantle.

Next go he again climbed easily to the bonus and slipped off in the same place. 3rd go was the same. 4th and 5th he slipped off trying a double dyno for the opposing triangle volumes out left.

Kilian trying to double dyno to use the two triangles as double gastons. It didn't work.

Rustam came next and climbed easily to the bonus but, like Kilian, slipped off trying to move on from there. It seems this problem is very delicate and any balance mistake means the climber is right off. 2nd go was a similar situation, he fell again by slipping off the early volumes. Next go he got up and kept his balance, moving slowly right on a foot perch through the triangle volumes and to the finish of the the boulder.

Starting down the road to success.

Rustam matched this small triangle to move out right.

Good position on the gastons.

A nice controlled cross to the finish.

Success for Rustam.

Jeremy Bonder came out next. I don’t know that I’ve ever seen this guy before but he is crushing at this comp. 1st go he jumped right on the wall and moved through the bonus hold and out right, then slipped off trying to move his other hand and body out right to catch up with his right hand. 3rd go was the same, he got his right hand out right but couldn’t get his other hand or feet over before slipping. Next go he did it again, but this time he quickly got his feet up and looked in better position to move out right with the match. Unfortunately instead of matching he again moved his right hand out way right and couldn’t hold the next volume as a gaston–he was too extended. He got back on the wall one more time, made his extended gaston work, got his feet back up, matched, moved right, and finished the boulder! Amazing.

High right foot to push into this gaston.


Good position.

Great success.

Tito (Thomas Caleyron) came out next and looked good moving up through the bonus and out right before suddenly slipping off. 2nd go he got even farther out right but with his feet low he slipped matching his left hand in to the left little triangle. Last go he had the same problem and fell in the same place.

Moving out right. A high foot probably would have helped.

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov came next. Dmitrii did very well last year and is a regular finalist. He is also currently ranked 1st in the world. For this first final he came out and stood up on the first volume, then fell matching it. I’m not sure that he touched the bonus hold on his way by–hopefully he did or it may come back to harm him. 2nd go he definitely pressed against the bonus hold, then fell again trying to stand up and balance. 3rd go he seemed in better position to move right but slipped. 4th go? I think this is 4th go. He again slipped at the bottom. 5th go was the same.

Dmitrii was pretty much stuck here the whole time.

Rei Sugimoto came out last. First go he slipped off the first move. Second go he was more careful and stood up to the bonus hold, then trying to move out right didn’t get his right foot up and fell. The feed cut out so I’m not sure how the next go went, but then he fell again trying to move around the bonus volume and out right. He fell again at least once, then somehow magically stuck the holds out right, got his foot up, and levitated his way to the finish.

About to start levitating.


Levitation Station

Rei with one hand on the finish. He matched and got the send.


Men’s 2

Kilian came out and hiked the problem, confidently throwing through the cross double-dyno and celebrating at the top.

Kilian dominating the bottom of the problem.

Got the undercling, ready for the dyno.

Caught the dyno, ready to move up

Kilian at the finish after the flash

Rustam came out and climbed to the cross-dyno, but tried to go with only one hand and didn’t have enough height to stick the sloper. Kilian’s method looks to be the best as the holds are slopey pinches and using them in opposition is probably the best way to stick them.

Rustam engaging on the left hand sloper. He quickly matched right and kept going for the 2nd go send.

Next go Rustam jumped a little harder and easily stuck the dyno one-two and finished the problem, doing a 1 arm pull up on the last hold, perhaps to apologize for having messed up the problem on his first go.

Rustam at the finish.

Jeremy came out and slipped off the first move. He didn’t seem to even grab the hold, just put his hand on it and slid off. 2nd go he again fell off the move. He fell there again, and a fourth time he stuck it for a second and then fell. Fifth go he got up a little better and stuck the hold, matched it, kept it as his feet cut and helicoptered, then fell doing the big move to the bonus hold. Next go he got up there again and nearly stuck the bonus hold but didn’t get quite high enough. With 10 seconds left he got back on the wall, did the first move again, and fell grabbing the bonus again without scoring for it.

Jeremy struggled with this move for a long time and then struggled with the next move as well.

Not quite sticking the bonus.

Tito came next and also slipped off the first hold. Next go he got through the first move, stuck the bonus, committed to the double cross dyno, and finished the problem.

Tito catching the double dyno for a 2nd go send.

Dmitrii came out and after tentatively moving though the first move flashed the problem. Most interesting was his catch of the double dyno–he used the right arete of the wall for his right hand catch instead of the right hand hold.

He went one-two, left to hold, right to arete. Sadly I don't have a shot of him catching it.

Once he stopped the swing he stood up and finished the boulder.

Looking casual on the last move

Dmitrii at the top

Rei came out and climbed through the bottom well, though the move to the bonus looked very long for him. He stuck the undercling out right but fell on the cross dyno after not quite jumping high enough and bringing both hands up. The fall was unexpected and awkward and the announcers said he seems to have tweaked his right ankle a bit. He kept trying to gear up for the next go and then backing off, preparing himself 100% to try and send. He got back on, climbed again to the dyno, and again fell trying to catch it. He’s got a physio looking at his right ankle, which he seems to have tweaked. Instead of climbing again he is sitting down letting the physio work on his ankle, and his time ran out. He seemed to be mostly ok as he walked off the mat.

The move to the bonus hold was quite long but Rei managed it.

Setting up for the jump

Rei not quite sticking the double dyno. He just didn't seem quite high enough to engage the left hand. It was this fall that tweaked his ankle the first time he took it, but he got back up here and fell in the same place again.

Use the links below to see Finals 3 & 4 and the final results for men in Vienna as well as Women’s Finals and all categories qualifiers and semis.


Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Intro & Problems 1 & 2

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

Men’s Finals 3 & 4 and Podiums

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Men’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podiums

April 28, 2012 3 comments

More coverage on Men’s 1 & 2 and all Women’s Finals. See bottom of this article for links.


Men’s 3

Kilian getting his feet over for the move to the bonus hold.

Kilian came out, easily locked off and stuck the bonus hold with his left hand, then tried to bump his left hand up again and skip part of a difficult looking sequence by doing so. Instead he fell, but he may try that method again as he was close.

Kilian manhandling the little crimps at the bottom.

2nd go he came out and skipped the bonus hold as he’d already touched it. The method worked and he seemed to easily climb to the top.

Kilian skipping the bonus on his 2nd go. You can see it off to his right.

Kilian at the end.

Rustam came out, static-ed easily through the crimps, used the top crimps as double gastons, and easily crossed to the finish for the flash.

Rustam matched the crimp sidepull/undercling and went up right to the bonus.

Rustam devised his own method and it worked well for moving off the bonus instead of the next (worse?) hold above it.

Rustam hiked this one.

Jeremy came out, did the first move easily, and was leaning back to do the second move when his left hand blew off the hold, dropping him to the mats on his side and leaving his fingers in pain it looked like. 2nd and 3rd go he fell moving out right from that first left hand, both times looking at his left finger tips which seem to be in pain. He fell off that move again, and maybe another time, before sticking it and moving out left to the crimp. He got his feet up and went to move to the next hold, but fell trying to move without getting anywhere.

Jeremy fell several times here including his hand just ripping off the left crimp 1st go and causing him some pain and friction problems after that.

Tito came out and climbed once and immediately there was a technical–a foothold crumbled off the wall. The setters were called out to replace it. He had to sit on the mat facing the audience while they fixed it. He climbed to the bonus hold, though I’m not 100% sure he stuck it enough to get credit for it. 3rd go he got the bonus again, then struggled to move his next hand up off it and slipped and he was done.

Once again there were feed problems so I don’t have any pictures of Tito on this one either.

Dmitrii came out, powered through the setters’ intended sequence in the bonus match, then fell jumping for the last hold. Rustam looked a little at risk for falling there as well on his go but he moved slowly and stuck the finish.

Power move to the gaston.

Dmitrii doing the sequence. A very hard match.

Dmitrii moving left.

Dmitrii jumped a little too much to stick the slopey-looking last hold. 2nd go Dmitrii did the same bottom sequence but a bit faster. He went slightly slower to the top hold and stuck it for the send.

Dmitrii missed this once, stuck it the second try.

Rei came last, even though his ankle was slightly injured they wrapped it for him in blue tape and he seemed to be walking fine. The taping abilities of the physios are pretty extraordinary, and he seemed to be standing on the ankle like normal. He climbed up to the bonus hold and seemed to control it but he fell trying to match his left hand up as Dmitrii had. 2nd go he fell on the 2nd move that had given Jeremy Bonder so much trouble. He rested again before his 3rd go, then did what Kilian did and skipped the bonus hold (having already controlled it) and climbed to the top.

Skipping the bonus hold the 2nd time around.

Rei about to do the last move off the double gastons.

He actually stuck this.

Rei holding on to the match for what looks like dear life. You can see his taped foot clearly from here.


Men’s 4

On his flash go Kilian made it through the sideways jump, up the slopers, then fell off grabbing the final hold–a slippery triangle volume like those that had given people trouble earlier in the day.

Kilian just after the start jump. The problem started to the right on the triangle volume, stood up to the sloper, then jumped left to the large foot and sidepull that Kilian is on now.

Kilian using good body position to stay in on the slopers.

Next go he came out and caught the last hold, holding the swing and then using a foot bicycle to match hands for the send.

Kilian sticking the finish 2nd go.

Rustam came out next with high pressure knowing that Kilian had done it quickly (but maybe not that high as Rustam had sent every problem thus far and nobody else had). He climbed the problem in 40 seconds to assure his gold medal and his second win in a row in a bouldering world cup.

Rustam keeping his balance in the middle of the problem.

Rustam Gelmanov on the flash.

Jeremy Bonder came out and fell off the sideways jump. 2nd go he tried the finger in the bolt hole but fell again. Same for his 3rd go. And his 4th. And again.

Everyone ended up jumping out of the mono in the bolt hole. Guess the sloper was really bad.

Eventually this somehow worked for him.

And maybe even again. And then what happened? Again Jeremy tried, looking like he had no chance, and somehow stuck the move he’d fallen off several times before, made it through the rest of the problem, and sent!

Jeremy made the rest of this look pretty doable

Jeremy was so excited to finally get to the end that he just kept going.

Tito came out and flashed? The feed cut out, but he did it fast, first or second go.

I have no pic of Tito's climb cause the feed cut out, so here's the crowd.

Dmitrii flashed the problem easily to assure his silver medal.

High foot, big last move.

Dmitrii on top

Finally Rei came out, stood up, missed the side jump and smacked his hip and side on the volume. Second go he tried to jump both feet to the volume and grab the hold as a gaston with his right hand.

This did not work.

3rd go he stepped correctly and used his left hand and stuck the jump, then hit the bonus, then slipped off the holds before the last jump suddenly when his left hand slipped and he lost his balance.

Rei tagging the bonus hold right before reaching out left and slipping off.

Next go he again got through the bottom, kept his body in and did the huge move to the last hold, which he stuck for the send.

Rei sticking the big jump and swing last move.

Rei atop his last boulder. You can kind of see his right ankle is taped in blue.


Men’s Final Results

Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (silver) Rustam Gelmanov (gold) Kilian Fischhuber (bronze)


More Coverage:


Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Intro & Problems 1 & 2

Vienna Bouldering World Cup – Women’s Finals – Problems 3 & 4 + Podium!

Full Results:

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result M E N bouldering

IFSC – International Federation of Sport Climbing: General result W O M E N bouldering

IFSC Vail World Cup 2011 Finals Rundown Problems 3 and 4 + Women’s Highlights Video. UPDATE – Men’s Highlight Video

June 6, 2011 4 comments

Ok, so with another round of pictures, here is a brief rundown of problems 3 and 4.  At the bottom are two highlights videos with all the finals problems.

Final 3s

Angie Payne took a few tries to get through the bottom of women's 3, then got stuck here, just short of the bonus hold. On the right, Jonas Baumann is doing the rose move on men's 3 before a difficult unwind and jump to the off-kilter finish hold. It took him three tries, but he eventually sent the problem. | Jackie Hueftle

To the delight of the crowd, Dmitry flashed the dyno and the boulder. | Jackie Hueftle

Jain Kim impressed everybody when she made the double heels work on this problem, but it wasn't enough to help her stick the bonus hold. | Jackie Hueftle

Chris Webb-Parsons couldn't quite stick the dyno to the double slopers. | Jackie Hueftle

Anna Stöhr hiked her way to the finish. | Jackie Hueftle

Guillaume Glairon Mondet styled his way through the rose move, but couldn't quite stick the final hold. | Jackie Hueftle

It took her four goes to get to the bonus hold, but as soon as she did Melissa La Neve kept going to the top. | Jackie Hueftle

Kilian Fischhuber handily flashed his way though all the trickery of problem 3. | Jackie Hueftle

Final finals (i.e. problem 4s)

Angie in the initial moves of womens 4 and Jonas trying hard for the flash on men's 4. It took Angie two tries to get to her bonus hold (the right of the two orange pinches) but she was unable to finish the problem. Jonas also came up just short of sending his. | Jackie Hueftle

The crowd went crazy as Dmitry flashed men's final 4 and Akiyo looked like she might flash hers as well. In the end she sent 3rd go. | Jackie Hueftle

Jain Kim also looked like she might flash, but it took her two tries to reach the top. On the powerful and tricky men's 4 Chris Webb-Parsons gave some mighty efforts, but it took him four tries to figure out the right beta and get to the bonus hold. From there he gave a few good tries but couldn't quite get to the last hold. | Jackie Hueftle

Anna Stöhr powering through final 4 | Jackie Hueftle

Power fists fro Anna as she flashes final 4 and secures her win. | Jackie Hueftle

Helmet guy stood in front of us and danced for almost the whole comp. It was entertaining, but his white helmet was reflecting sun in a way that I feel was detrimental to taking pictures. Here he is watching Kilian and Melissa try their last problems. | Jackie Hueftle

Alex Puccio also hiked this pinchy problem for the flash and a 2nd place finish. | Jackie Hueftle

Kilian flashed and won. Everyone went nuts. | Jackie Hueftle

So there it is.  Everyone gave great efforts and gave the crowd a great show.  For the final results post, click here: Vail IFSC World Cup Bouldering 2011 Final Results and for the rundown of problems 1 and 2 click here.

Problem 3 recap

Anna – f

Alex – f

Melissa – 3rd go

Jain – no top, no bonus

Akiyo – no top, no bonus

Angie – no top, no bonus


Kilian – f

Dmitry – f

Jonas – 3rd go

Rei – 8th go

Guillaume – no top, 3rd go bonus

Chris – no top, no bonus

Problem 4 recap

Anna – f

Alex – f

Melissa – no top, 1st go bonus

Jain – 2nd go

Akiyo – 3rd go

Angie – no top, 2nd go bonus


Kilian – f

Dmitry – f

Jonas – no top, 1st go bonus

Rei – no top, 3rd go bonus

Guillaume – no top, 2nd go bonus

Chris – no top, 4th go bonus

Finals Highlights Videos

Here are two short videos from Louder Than 11 featuring the Women’s and Men’s Finals.

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