YES! The World Cup Bouldering season has nearly started with the European Boulder Championships in Innsbruck. Unfortunately there is no live feed but Udo & co of Stuntwerk made a nice little video of men’s qualis which you should definitely watch as it just shows one man crushing each boulder. There were two heats so there are 10 boulders total.
The Russians Dmitrii and Rustam are looking crazy strong this year. They qualified in 4th and 5th so it’s gonna be interesting to watch semis and see what their weak points are (if any) and it’s gonna be interesting to see who can beat them. From men’s quali results it seems like Gui-Gui, Adam Ondra, and newcomer (to me at least) Michael Piccolruaz from Italy definitely have a chance.
Men’s Quali Results:
1. Gui-Gui tied with Ondra tied with Michael Piccolruaz
5. Rustam tied with Jakob Schubert
3 way tie for 7th: Alban Levier (FRA, new to me), Roands Rugens (LAT – last year he did quite well in one event) and everyone’s hero Jorg Verhoeven (NED)
10. Dave Barrans (GBR)
11. Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) is back and tied with strong young Domen Skofic from Slovenia
13. Two guys I’ve never heard of, Mickael Mawem from France and Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor from Poland.
15. More newcomers to me, Stephane Hanssens from Belgium and Gregor Vezonik from Slovenia
17. Jan Hojer and Martin Stranik (CZE)
19. Mathias Conrad (GER) and Stefan Scarperi (ITA)
Don’t think they get through to semis but two of my personal favorites, Jernej Kruder and Anthony Gullsten, tied for 21st in qualis.
Also out: Jeremy Bonder in 23rd, Nicky De Leeuw (NED) in 31st tied with Lukas Ennemoser (AUT), Benjamin Blaser (SUI) in 33rd, David Firnenburg (GBR) in 40th, Klemen Becan’s little brother Jure Becan (SLO) tied for 41st with Gabri Moroni (ITA), young Brit Nathan Phillips in 47th tied with Elias Weiler (AUT), and Emiliyan Kolevski (BUL) tied for 69th with 3 other guys. That’s everyone I know on the list but there were 86 competitors total, some from countries rarely seen on the WC Circuit, so this could be a very fresh season if they keep competing.
The 2nd stop of the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup was in Baku, Azerbaijan.
Rewatch the Final:
Move right to that yellow jib on the bottom of the bottom visible triangle in the pic above, drop knee, cross left to top of two slopers, match right in on bottom sloper, high left foot, right hand up to bonus, high left heel, cross to volume edge, match, pop to last hold.
Mina Markovic came out first and climbed beautifully to the bonus, then fell trying to cross to the volume edge above her on her way to the final hold. Next go she got a higher, more secure heel, got the volume edge, and still struggled a bit before finally just jumping to the end.
This last two moves seemed to be the biggest difference in the problem, with taller girls jumping immediately and the shortest competitors (Mina and Jule) both falling. The hold seemed decent once they jumped to it.
Jule fell first go, then second go jumping to the final hold when she seemed to miss it. Meanwhile on the Men’s problem Killian flashed, and someone reset the clock, so after Jule’s second fall she had to sit around for several minutes while they figured out what was going on. As soon as she could climb again she hiked the problem and the last move looked a little desperate but she caught it.
In comparison, Akiyo just pulled up and moved to the last move slowly without her feet cutting til she had it. Anna and Shauna both quickly thugged through the problem.
Alex got bonus and finished the problem 2nd try.
Men’s Final 1
Rock left and double dyno to two holds, the higher of which was the bonus. Left hand out, high right foot, right hand up to volume, perch and stab for final pocket.
Again, seemed like the shorter guys suffered a bit more. The first move was sort of a one-two dyno to two holds on the arete. First out, Kokoro Fujii took eight tries to do the first move, but once he did it he finished the problem just after time ran out.
French climber Jeremy Bonder took four goes. Jan Hojer hiked it, skipping a hold. Kilian fell once, then hiked it. Both the Russians went static right hand cross first, then crossed up to the bonus and matched it before continuing. Both flashed.
Women’s Final 2
Big volumes. High start, jump feet up to high left foot, rock left, match, up left again to bonus, cross to high triangle, match to get left hand on the part with the thumb catch, right thrutch to the finish off. Last move off a right foot or keeping feet out left and swing-jumping, which is what most people did for success.
Mina fell at the top and didn’t finish.
Shauna flashed with what looked like a knee scum and then a beautiful backen-heel at the top. When she got down she pointed out a loose hold to the judges.
Akiyo looked extremely uncomfortable at the top and fell off the last move after looking like she couldn’t quite get up over the right foot. Fell again somewhere or before that. Next try she moved faster at the top and grabbed the top hold to finish.
Alex hiked her way through the bottom, then moved too quickly to the last hold and just missed it. Fell there again. Fell in middle. Bummed.
Men’s Final 2
Big circle volumes, awkward looking leftward moves with a huge left foot triangle and a slippery looking mantle at the top. Start with a hand and nearby heel up right, lower left hand and low left foot. Cross right to hold on volume. Left to the side of the volume and/or again to the left wall, swing left, move up left with big triangle feet, get highest volume, mantle to stand on it, lean over in terror to the finish.
Kokoro flashed to bonus, then fell from mantle and didn’t finish.
Jeremy got up past bonus first go, then fell trying to get up on the 2nd to highest volume. Next go matched it and fell trying to get on the highest volume for the mantle. He sat on the right foot and thrutched for it and got a good handful, but then didn’t stick and slowly slid off.
Kilian fell first go moving up to the highest volume (the bonus hold) when his heel slipped. Next go he used his toe and a knee scum, pulled against the no friction to get up, scored for bonus, then instead of mantling just tried to lean right to grab the finish as Jan did. He couldn’t quite reach and fell off again. Next go he did the same sequence, stood somehow a bit taller, touched the hold, threw a high left foot, crossed over and touched the finish hold with his other hand to score his top. Crazy.
Rustam fell first go on the same moves up to the highest circle volume that were giving everyone else trouble. 2nd go was the same thing. That hold looks super slippery and, as the announcers said, the shorter climbers had a real problem with those moves. Rustam fell again (I think). And again. Couldn’t get onto the volume. It looked like the bad but high right foot was the beta for establishing on that volume.
Women’s Final 3
Big volume, swing left to crimp on volume, heel, under-thumb jib on a 2nd volume, match it (where Anna is above), tiny painful looking crimps, can flip thumb to undercling, and a high foot rock up and left, balance to match the bad finish jib.
First go Mina, probably one of the best crimpers on the planet, got to the top but couldn’t manage to do the last move off two holds that the announcer described as nothing. Next go she moved left and got her foot up before standing to those holds, then rocked left to the finish.
Jule flashed. The wind was blowing her ponytail straight out right the whole time. must have been strange to compete like that.
Alex did the first couple of moves, then fell moving left. Fell on 2nd move. 3rd go hit 2nd hold, swung left heel up to get higher volume and match it, then fell trying to hit bonus. It looked like she couldn’t sit on the left heel. Next go went with right foot again like everyone else, shifted over to left toe, foot slipped as she hit the bonus and off. Didn’t score for it. Announcer said she’s trying to grab the bonus, when really it is is super slick and should just be touched as you sit on your foot before moving out left. Next go she tried to skip the high volume by campusing to the feet. She got to all of them but none was good enough and she dropped. Last go she got up high on the volume, realized that wasn’t going to work, tried to bump back down and fell. No bonus.
Men’s Final 3
Jumpy first move (at least for shorter competitors) to two flat triangles put together to make sort of a space ship looking thing. Left side is better. Match and float feet right to clamp volume. Shuffle hands right. Stand into undercling triangle volume, feet up on space ship, balancy in control reach to top, which is a bad jib on a volume on top of the wall–kinda cool.
Kokoro kept jumping to the middle and had trouble sticking it. No bonus. It looked like he might have been able to jump to the left side like Jeremy did and it would have been easier to stick.
Jan nearly staticed but couldn’t quite reach. Did a tiny jump to stick the space ship, kept getting thwarted on the next move. Next goes he basically staticed the first move, then lifted off and moved feet right to clamp feet on a volume and match the space ship. From there he looked very scrunched and fell several times, sort of trying to mantle but unable to move up from there. He did get the bonus point for grabbing the undercling triangle on his first go.
Jeremy fell, fell, stuck but fell rocking his feet over. Stuck, matched, feet over, after some finagling managed to stand into the bonus hold (triangle volume undercling on a triangle volume) tried to stand up to the last move to the top but shot straight out backwards instead.
Did beginning again, fell on undercling. Last go managed to get a knee jammed in, had a good guppy right hand on the top volume and underling right, twisted towards the top several times trying to generate but it the end it was too awkward and he fell. If he had finished this still would have been in 5th.
Dmitrii flashed the problem easily.
Kilian fell on the first move. He fell again after matching the space ship. Seems like hitting it in the middle is bad because you swing off. Establishing on the left, then shifting right, seems to be working better. Also, right and middle of the space ship are in the sun. Fell again. Fell again. No bonus.
Rustam hiked the problem on his first try.
Volume blocked by another volume for the start, move right to big teardrop volume, foot jam, delicate match on top of it (apparently very slippery), rock up left to two jibs on a volume, one is bonus. Rock left on bad foot to gaston, press into it and match, up right cross to another volume at the top. The start feet are both out right so the sequence was put left foot on, right foot on (now you are established off the ground) then flag left foot out left to do the move. This caused some problems, as you will see below.
Mina’s 2nd go she got into the gaston and pressed to match it but couldn’t get to the last hold. She wanted to go left but knew she couldn’t reach. Finally she moved up right hand and got it, but was stuck under the volume and fell trying to get a foot up so she could match.
Anna went left to the last hold (like Mina kept trying to do but couldn’t reach) and flashed easily.
Shauna has to flash. She gets on, does 1st move, matches bonus, drops. What? The judge called her off saying she didn’t start with her feet properly. She gets back on, does the proper foot touch, and finishes the boulder left hand first. Does it count as a flash? If so, the announcer says, she wins. UPDATE: Announcer says she was called down for dabbing (touching the mat with her foot as she pulled off on her 1st attempt) so it counts as a try and puts her in 2nd. That is crushing for Shauna. This would have been her first gold. Announcer says she did contest it when she got pulled off, said she didn’t dab, so we’ll see what happens if they do a video check or something. UPDATE 2: In the only angle for the live feed they replayed Shauna’s start and though you can’t see her foot she does seem to dab and pull back up. It also looked like someone (not the judges) called for the judges to call her off. The whole thing is less than ideal. UPDATE 3: A kind commenter (see below) has said that most likely an IFSC Judge was helping the problem judges as they were local and inexperienced. Makes sense, and thanks to him for the clarification. Also, it’s important to note here that there was a lot of complaining about the live feed in the live comment box and on Facebook, but those of us who watch these should be grateful there was any video at all as it seems the conditions were challenging on many fronts. The weather alone looked like it was exhausting. Thanks to the IFSC, Top 30, and everyone else for making the feed happen.
Akiyo flashes pretty easily. Left hand static to finish like Anna and Shauna.
Jule gets called off her first go same as Shauna. Next go she gets to the top. The last move looks quite reachy for her but she gets it 1st go with her right hand like Mina, but instead of falling works her right hand up til she can let go with her feet and left hand and hang match. She did this by pushing up against the right foot and riding the left hand undercling until her right hand was draped over the top, more positive angle on the volume.
Alex unfortunately is in last already, which much be terrible for her as she’s been in first for the whole comp so far, flashing all the qualis and winning semis as well. She looks done already here and falls on the first move of the problem. Next go she gets to bonus and then falls reaching for the gaston. Next go she does 1st move and falls matching the volume. Next go she’s back up to bonus, chalks on the volume, gets up to last move as time runs out, falls jumping right to last hold. Ends up in 6th. For some reason the IFSC site (and the result below) hasn’t yet given her credit for the 4th problem bonus, but she definitely grabbed it so I’m not sure what’s up with that.
Hard pull on to establish on a volume, stand up into a corner roof, lean way out to a bonus, cross to a volume with a thumb catch, two triangle volumes, bad volume final hold so you have to keep your feet on and stay in.
Kokoro didn’t get scored for bonus (or it wasn’t yet updated) but he seems to have grabbed it.
Jan got up nicely through the bonus on his 2nd try, got out around the corner, then slipped grabbing the next volume. He rested a long time, then got up into the roof and slipped just as the timer ran out. Bummer.
Jeremy is pressing up into the corner by rocking over the left foot and pressing right hand up (instead of matching like Jan did).
Like Shauna on the women’s problem, Jeremy also seems to be having some issue with the judges, maybe a loose hold that the setter is reinforcing with another screw. Jeremy gets a little more rest out of it. Now Jeremy is back on but he can’t seem to hold the 2nd hold. He’s it it several times right hand as a gaston and fell. Jan hit it left and matched, which looked better. He finally gets it, then falls rocking on left foot. The buzzer buzzed but who knows how much time he has left–the technical threw the clock off again, at least on the live feed. Back on, does the 2nd move better, rocks over the foot, stands into the corner right hand again, may have finally hit time out, falls out of the corner right after. No bonus.
Dmitrii climbs through the bottom crossing left to the 2nd hold and matching like Jan, gets bonus, comes out around corner, campuses left to triangles (instead of right like Jan tried) brings his right hand up to match in compression but falls off instead. Next go campuses up left again, slows down to control it which he does, but falls trying to stick the right hand when he grabs the other triangle. Next go falls in the roof, looks like he says it’s tweaky on his arm and he’s done.
Kilian got through the bottom, then, like Dmitrii, struggled to hold the left triangle and then, unlike Dmitrii, fell before even trying to move his right hand. It doesn’t make a difference though, both got bonus first go. Next go falls in the same place but a little faster. Last go as time runs out he’s back on, the rock over and press into the corner looks uncomfortable, he falls out of the roof.
If Rustam flashes he will get gold. He falls off trying to rock up under the roof. Next go gets bonus, falls. Ends up in 3rd.
No one sends the boulder.
In the post-comp interviews both Anna and Shauna are quite gracious about the result. Anna says it isn’t ideal as they’d prefer to battle it out but some times you get lucky and that day she got lucky. Shauna says she did her best and she feels good about her performance.
Next comp is in Grindelwald, Switzerland, next weekend May 10th and 11th.
Munich Final Results
Alex Puccio put on a great show of strength here, but not finishing problem 1 really hurt her in the end. The announcers said Melanie had flashed problem 1 but apparently (according to the scores) she did it 2nd try. Good job to all the competitors for once again putting on an excellent show!
Munich Men’s Final Results
This is Rei’s first medal in a bouldering world cup and it’s a gold! Fantastic job for this very worthy competitor you may remember from this year’s Vail finals.
Season Overall Podiums
Women’s Final 4
Jump across to a jug undercling/swing catch. Big move (Petra figure 4’ed) to another volume, two volumes with jibs, high right foot on large green volume, press into corner with whole body to finish. The end especially seemed difficult and competitors tried some interesting things.
Dinara – fell, then caught dyno dramatically with one hand, got into volumes but fell.
Petra – did dyno, stylish figure 4, tried some real shenanagins on volumes, fell out of them. No finish.
Melanie – stuck dyno, had trouble moving up.
Katha – slipped off jump, did jump, got to high volumes, fell, back up, left hand on high volume, pressed into corner, sent!
Alex – fell off jump, then did it, fell from volumes b/c wrong hand up first, went again, went left first like Katha did, pressed pressed pressed. Sent! It looked very very close but it worked! Good job Alex!
Shauna – tried to static jump, fell a couple times, stuck it, hiked the top even though she went up right to the top volume and that hosed everyone else who tried it. Very strong effort from Shauna.
Anna – falls off jump. If she sends this climb she wins the comp. Gets back up. Goes right to top volume, seems stuck, eventually gets hands right, stems out, finishes. She wins!
Men’s Final 4
Weird moves from holds on a volume out to another huge volume with a little hold on the edge and another on the tip. Power move up left to the huge bonus blob. Rock up right to arete hold. Sit on bonus, move left to press finish.
Sachi – tried some interesting things to get out, didn’t sort it out.
Rei – wow! Another impressive effort from Rei.
Rei figured out the bottom and then hiked carefully to last move, where he hung out for a while trying to decide what to do.
He finally committed to the dynamic move, rocked left and used his right elbow to press into the wall to keep him from barn dooring out.
It worked, he stuck the finish!
Mayhaylo – went out backwards at the start but made it work!
Up to bonus, stood up on arete, foot up on bonus, couldn’t figure out last move, eventually fell. No send.
Rustam – fell from the start, then worked it out, stood up high at the top, crimped wall panel, left foot to final hold, leaned over, matched, done.
Dmitrii – fell from start repeatedly, after powering out first moves but getting stuck moving to bonus. Doesn’t finish, and it ends this comp but he’s still overall 1st place for the season.
Thomas – If he sends he wins. The crowd is chanting for him. Unfortunately he struggles on bottom, falls repeatedly, doesn’t get through it. Silver.
Women’s Final 1
This problem looked really balancy, and nearly everyone fell at least once, often many times. The top looked particularly challenging as it was necessary to press off a low foot and do some hand maneuvering, then get a high right foot and rock up onto it while pulling on the small holds and volume to the finish.
Dinara Fakhritdinova – bonus
Petra Klingler – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Melanie Sandoz – flash
Katha Saurwein – bonus, nearly sent but fell at top
Alex Puccio – flash to bonus, fell. didn’t finish
Shauna Coxsey – falling, bonus, not sure her highpoint
Anna Stöhr – falling, bonus…
After Anna fell off the bottom a few more times she got back up, instead of matching put right on gaston, left into the undercling she’s trying to match on in the pic above, right to volume, grabbed the top! Only the 2nd send of the boulder and it puts her in 2nd as Melanie flashed.
Men’s Final 1
Sachi Amma – 0
Rei Sugimoto – 0
Mykhaylo Shalagin – 0
Rustam Gelmanov – 0
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov – 0
Thomas Tauporn – 0
Women’s Final 2
The announcers said they thought you were supposed to go to the left side of the volume, but the girls jumped straight up one two left and then right to the high right dish. From there left hand flip to catch the swing (Dinara didn’t flip), then squeeze left on the volume/bonus, left again to undercling, high feet, stand up to finish.
Dinara – flash
Petra – falling, does sweet jump with left hand flip for the catch, finishes the problem with 2 knees and a heel hook.
Melanie – falls, bonus, falls, no send. Keeps falling trying to get left hand to upper left undercling for last move.
Katha – eventual send
Alex – flash
Shauna – flash
Anna – flash
Men’s Final 2
Blobs, arete, press into an volume, move around the volume to the finish.
Sachi – bonus
Rei – scroll down:
Mykhaylo – no top, bonus?
Rustam – looked good, got bonus, fell getting feet up. Falls again, calls to crowd for support, falls again, Heel blows, falls again.
Dmitrii – sends 2nd go and in 1st now.
Thomas – sends! Several goes. In 2nd now.
Rei is now in 3rd.
Semifinals Live Feed and Video
I didn’t watch semis but I’m watching the replay. You can too, here: IFSC Video Gallery. Men’s and Women’s finals are at the same time, so it’s one video for all. At the moment it’s the top video on the page. I’ll put a direct link in later.
As you can see from the photo of Leah above, Team Austria has published a nice photo album, which you can see here:
Men’s Semi 1 seemed to have a large reach move (or at least much much easier if you were tall) that divided up the men pretty handily. You had to hold left hand on the arete, right foot low on the lower face, and stab up to the small pocket inside the e-grips 2tex vortex. Some, like Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Jernej Kruder, who both made finals, reached it easily. Others, like Sean McCall and Rustam Gelmanov, weren’t so lucky. After semis Sean ended up in the painful position of 7th, Gelmanov took 8th.
Women’s Semi 1 was a delicate balance problem that got the women quite stretched out. It was good for adding falls, though it did get finished. Unfortunately, some of the stronger climbers, including Mélissa Le Nevé, were unable to get to the final hold. Melissa is often a finalist, but this time she ended up in 8th overall. Shauna Coxsey stood for a long time with the two tiny chips (you can see how small they are from the photo of Leah at the top of this page) and eventually made her way to the final hold for the flash. She went on to take 1st overall in this round.
Men’s Semi 2 looked super fun and powerful. It involved several big volumes on an arete. After the start you grabbed a small hold under the big orange death star, then did a double jump to the death star (right) and the cone (left). The death star looked very slippery and many fell there, others got a heel in and were able to continue squeezing to the finish. Slovenian Jure Becan, younger brother of 1st place qualifier Klemen Becan, was one who finished it, and though his other results weren’t enough to get him into finals, he still turned in his best Boulder World Cup finish yet with 17th. His brother Klemen didn’t have as good of semifinals as he had qualifiers, and ended up in 10th overall.
Women’s Semi 2 started with a dynamic move to a right hand sloper (?) on the black triangle and a left hand catch hold, then turned into a twisty problem up a slightly overhanging wall to a committing but doable last move that lead to many exciting “will she stick it?!” moments. The answer for those who jumped seemed to be yes.
Katha barely squeaked her way into semifinals, but she showed that she deserved to be there with a strong round that took her into finals in 4th place.
Men’s Semi 3 looked like a short powerfest, jumpy like Semi 2 was. It dropped many climbers on the move to the orange sloper (where Klemen is below).
Women’s Semi 3 looked pretty awesome. It had not one but two of those big EP teardrop comp volumes on it and after working off an orange volume and through some gastons the women had to wrestle their way up the teardrops (and an undercling) on an overhanging section of the wall. Katha fell off the last move several times trying to go right hand, others, more successfully, went with the right or with a left-hand cross and finished the boulder.
Men’s Semi 4
Women’s Semi 4 was the black and green problem. From holds on a large black volume it was technical moves through green volumes, a bonus hold, then some balancey moves on large green slopers to the finish.
I will finish this after finals.
Women’s Problem 4
I didn’t catch the proposed grade.
Anna flashed? I thought 2nd go. Owned it though.
Katha sticks double dyno, falls moving off it. No bonus.
Jule gets up to bonus, falls on next move. Gets up again, falls again. No top.
Akiyo fell 1st go. 2nd go up to bonus, struggling with beta, bumps, tries to bump in, falls. Does it again, falls from next move. Done, no top.
If Shauna flashes she wins. She falls on the double dyno, not going to get gold, may get silver if she tops. If she tops 2nd go she’d tie Anna. Fell again. Now can only get silver max. Sticks the dyno 3rd go. Finishes the boulder. Top! Silver!
Puccio came out last, hiked the problem.
Here are the UNOFFICIAL (i.e. pre appeals period) results from Millau for women:
Men’s Problem 4
(but the announcer said more straightforward/easier than the last one)
Lucas came out and climbed up high, got bonus, but fell. Then he struggled.
Kilian came out strong, got bonus, fell moving up right to another volume. If he sends he wins. If not, and if someone else does, they could win. Very exciting. Kilian got back up, used a slightly better method, fell again.
Back again, does this double knee crouch thing, shifts right, grabs the top. Sends! Wins!
Guillaume got bonus first go. Fell above, as Kilian did, wrestling with the volumes. Didn’t finish.
Rustam came out next, looked good, did the problem 2nd go for his only send in Finals.
UNOFFICIAL (before appeals) Men’s Results