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Archive for the ‘Random Musings’ Category

Ian Dory is an American Ninja Warrior!

August 5, 2014 Leave a comment
Ian at the Denver Finals

Ian at the Denver Finals

Our very own setter and coach Ian Dory joined several other climbers and competed on American Ninja Warrior in Denver this season. We are so proud of Ian! Want to see how he did? Rewatch the Denver Finals at this link:

American Ninja Warrior Denver Finals 2014

Click forward to around 54 minutes to watch Ian, or start from the beginning and watch climbers and Spot friends Brian Arnold, Matt Wilder, Keith Allen Peters, Alex Manikowski, Paul Kasemir, Noah Kaufman, and of course #mightymeagan Meagan Martin.

Nice job Ian!!!

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Categories: 2014, Random Musings, Setters

Happy Birthday Lily!

August 29, 2013 Leave a comment
Categories: 2013, Random Musings, Setters

New Article – Tape! – UPDATED

August 6, 2013 Leave a comment
So many colors!

So many colors!

Tape is an important part of setting at most US gyms. Wanna know more about setting tape? Want to buy your own? Read: The Tape Article

UPDATE – Just looked at the article, realized I wrote it late at night, and updated/fixed the beginning some. Sorry guys! Hopefully it is more helpful now.

Awesome and Creative New Volumes

May 6, 2013 Leave a comment

Found this via reddit. Some new volumes were up in this gym (not sure which one) and they took some pictures.

Looks legit?

Looks legit? Except for that spinner.

They move around on the walls.

They move around on the walls, which is weird.

Cause there're people in 'em!

Cause there’re people in ’em!

Best Costumes Ever?

Best Costumes Ever?

Sweet!

Sweet!

See the rest of it  ::  Climbing Mutant Ninja Turtles – Imgur

The Spot – Early May Setting Update + Spring in Review

May 4, 2013 Leave a comment

It’s been a long period of short updates (besides comp coverage) and so here is a little review of what we’ve been up to lately:

Connor rocked a mustache.

fig 1. Connor’s ‘stache.

1) Connor rocked a mustache for a few weeks (fig 1). You might call it a bit of a  social experiment, as he learned some things. Most women liked it. Most men either thought it was awesome or thought it was creepy. Awesome = comfortable with their manhood, creepy = they were threatened by it. Connor looked pretty amazing, obviously, and when he felt like it could deadpan creep out stare like nobody’s business.

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2&3) We got a new setting closet. We moved from behind the River (fig 2) to the room that makes up the front half of the hold washing room. There are some things we will miss about the old room though (fig 3).

fig 2. The Old Closet

fig 2. The Old Closet

awwww

fig 3. awwww

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Ian cleanin'

fig 4. Ian cleanin’

4) Ian Dory and I built some shelves in the new closet.

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Progress?

fig 5. Progress?

5) Jay Jay started collecting tape for “the world’s biggest tape ball”. She’s convinced she’ll easily beat the current world record. We told her she can but she has to keep the tape ball somewhere else, and it can’t interfere with work.

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Spider's Web Rope The Spot Gym

fig. 6

6) Danny put up the lunch rope and got carried away.

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Hold Block The Spot Gym

fig 7.

7) The best block ever? Yeah, I did this.

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fig 8. New Floor under the Beach

fig 8. New Floor under the Beach

8. We got our new flooring in under The Beach! More new floor, in the whole gym, coming mid-July!

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fig 9.

fig 9.

9. Jonny went all yacht club for the day in his Adidas Routesetter shirt, his fancy Verve pants, and his USAC Setter Sweatshirt.

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fig 10.

fig 10.

10. The septuplet tape job on the new Dojo.

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fig 11.

fig 11.

11) And finally, last week we reset the LEFT DOJO! Tons of new problems on the left bulge and the right side of the mid-Dojo overhanging arete. We’ve set more 2s and 3s than ever before on the left Dojo, so if you’ve never climbed on the Dojo might be a good time to try it. We’ve also got a bunch of everything else, so everyone should find something to send and project.

Enjoy!

Blog Updates

March 29, 2013 Leave a comment
Chris and Jon at Independence

Chris Schulte and Jon Glassberg filming in Independence Pass last summer. For the video (if you haven’t seen it already) check Chris’ Guest Setter page.

We made a few quick updates to the site.

First of all, we’ve updated the bios for setters:

Connor Griffith | The Spot Route Setting Blog

and

Ian Dory | The Spot Route Setting Blog

and added a little page for guest setter:

Chris Schulte | The Spot Route Setting Blog

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We added this useful page to the sidebar of “Useful Info” links: Lincoln Lake Bouldering | An illustrative compilation of information about bouldering at Lincoln Lake

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We also added a link to  iandory on Instagram.

To see the rest of our Instagram pages, scroll down and use the links on the right menu bar.

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I’m back in town again and will have some reviews up soon for Prinz, Redpoint, and G-Strings.

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Perhaps most excitingly, THE BEACH IS GETTING A NEW FLOOR NEXT WEEKEND!!!

Goodbye red pads. Hello Futurist flooring. Learn more:

Futurist Climbing

Hueco Update! + 2013’s lookin’ buff!

December 31, 2012 1 comment
The view from North Mountain at Hueco!

The view from North Mountain at Hueco!

Well, I’m still in Hueco. Namesake of our Hueco boulder. The weather has been pretty good, sometimes sunny, sometimes windy, sometimes overcast, and lately quite cold!

Back in Boulder, Danny, Jonny, Jay Jay, Connor, and sometimes Ian and Jon are still keeping things fresh for everyone at The Spot while I’m gone. In fact, I heard Santa even stopped over on Christmas and set some extra routes!

For those who are interested, here are some pictures of my trip so far:

Sweet hold on South Mountain. Mammoth rubbing???

Sweet hold on South Mountain. Mammoth rubbing???

Trailer lyfe. Not a bad view.

Trailer lyfe. Not a bad view.

Visiting Japanese climber Yuiko sending her first V5 with the classic Dragonfly. She went on the same day to send her first V7, Ides of March, also in a couple of tries, and to nearly flash Mangum (V9). Not a bad day!

Visiting Japanese climber Yuiko sending her first V5 with the classic Dragonfly. She went on the same day to send her first V7, Ides of March, also in a couple of tries, and to nearly flash Mangum (V9). Not a bad day!

Yuiko's husband Yuta flashing Mangum (V9)

Yuiko’s husband Yuta flashing Mangum (V9) via the lock-off-every-move method.

Chris on a last call attempt of the new line The Owl Charmer on East Mountain

Chris on a last call attempt to top out the new line The Owl Charmer on East Mountain. 

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I’ve spent some rest days taking showers, Internet-ting, and generally hanging out with my friends Rocco and Mary at the Hueco Hacienda.

Christmas at The Hacienda

Christmas at The Hacienda

The Hacienda is a sweet old adobe that used to be a religious retreat, meaning it has some amazing wooden front doors and lots of heavy woodwork. Inside it’s fairly well restored and Rocco and Mary are constantly working to make it even awesomer. One of the updates is new headboards for the beds that Rocco built. For the headboards our artist friend Nikias has been woodburning each mountain into an oval, then Rocco stains the outside of the board. Here are a few pictures of the process:

Nikias hard at work.

Nikias hard at work.

Woodburning done.

Woodburning done.

One of the new Hueco Hacienda headboards. Woodburning by Nikias.

Stain part 1. A nearly finished product.

If you are thinking of coming down to Hueco, there are a few steps you’ll need to take. First of all, you should have a place to stay. You can camp at the Hueco Rock Ranch or at Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site. You can also stay inside at the Rock Ranch and at The Hacienda. For climbing you’ll need to have North Mountain Reservations or tours scheduled. Learn more at these links:

Hueco Rock Ranch – American Alpine Club (camping, house stays, tours, pads)

Wagon Wheel Coopt – Welcome (request commercial tours)

PARK ACCESS – The Hueco Hacienda (tours, rental pads, chalk, tape, brushes, links, phone numbers, and other info)

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And finally…

Found this on Facebook. Don't forget to train your babies!

Found this on Facebook. The photo looks old, but it’s definitely Baby 2013, clearly he has been in training to be a strong year! Time to crush!

Happy New Years Everyone!

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